Questions About Design And Balance...

[SooperJake]

I am new to this and just finished my first for this ruger sr22. I am very happy with the results for a first, but have some questions. I get a little "bounce" from the gun on the belt if I walk fast or jog. I attribute this to the high carry (conceal style) holster. I assume that if I raise my belt slots on the holster body, dropping the gun a little on the belt, this will balance out the weight a little. Do you all have some advice about fitting holster style and balance to gun weight and shape? I realize there are probably an infinite number of combos. I'm just looking for some things to try. Can I get a rock solid hold/balance on the gun but keep the high carry of the conceal style pancake? This gun is pretty light, but I'm going to start one for my taurus pt24/7 next and want to make some improvements to make it ride just right.

Criticism encouraged beyond just the style or cut. I still haven't applied oil or finish, just dye. I'm working on some different burnishing methods too and then dye the edges again.

Try burnishing a freshly dyed edge on some scrap leather and you will realize a kind of magic happens. For dye, I like the Fiebing's oil.

[CAVE]

It is hard to tell from the picture, but yes there is a stitch line above the slide. I'm trying to keep them tight to the gun as best I can. Also, the mag release is for right handed only and the back plate is cut around it. I left it higher on the front plate only.

Thanks for the help, I may try one with a full length site channel. What do you mean by role over the slide? Molding?

More on the site channels and leather purchase?

[chiefjason]

With the full length channel it's more important to catch the top edge of the slide so the gun does not move front to back. I've had it happen with smaller single stacks in kydex more so than leather. What I do is mold really well between the sight channel and the slide on the top side to make sure the top of the slide has something to rest on. It's probably even more important with flat backs since the entire pocket for the pistol is on the front panel. With a standard holster you have the pocket on the front and back panels. But I prefer flat backs now.

It's good that you worked around the mag release. But if you end up making them for others, you probably want to expose it front and back. You never know what kind of mods someone has done, and ambi releases are an easy one for most guns.

[jbossartcustomgunleather]

Leather choice will largely determine the success of a holster. I use Wickett and Craig of America 8-10oz Steer hide saddle skirting, it is terrible to cut because it is hard and tight grained, but produces an incredible product. Extreme high ride is no problem provided the belt Is good.

[Jimbob]

Some of my stuff....look how high the front of the gun is covered by leather....then dropes down in an arc above the trigger guard!

Maybe that helps.....

Will add pics,,,,, sorry

[Jimbob]

tried to post some pics....trying again.....hope this helps you to see the arc from the top of the gun coming down to the trigger guard....it is essetial that the holster has enough "meat" to support the holster....even if it rides sort of high!!

Hope these pics help a bit....made these rigs a while a go....

[Jimbob]

tried to post some pics....trying again.....hope this helps you to see the arc from the top of the gun coming down to the trigger guard....it is essetial that the holster has enough "meat" to support the holster....even if it rides sort of high!!

Hope these pics help a bit....made these rigs a while a go....

[mattsh]

My input on the question about the full length sight channel is that you are better off not doing this. I did this on a holster long before I found this forum. A man who had done this his whole life and had government contracts for holsters mentored me and advised against it. He said that over time I would find that the sight channel would get loose and the holster would lose retention abilities. His input was to keep as much of the stitching next to the gun as possible to maintain a snug fit and retention.

[Rednichols]

May God bless,

Dwight

I've been doing this (designing and making holsters) for way too long, and can say with authority that this is the best advice you've been given on this thread (cut from the above poster):

The ideal placement for maximum stability is low, . . . just enough opening between the belt top and the grip front to get your fingers to get a really good hold onto the grip of the weapon. And when you cut your belt slots, . . . do not be generous.

To that I would add: get the carry angle right for the "clocking" position along the waistline. It would be rare that MORE angle than 25 degrees grip-forward would be satisfactory when carried behind the trousers seam, and much less if carried in front of the seam.

This is my first post in a very long time on this forum, and I'll try to be gentler than I have been on other forums because I see a genuine interest in "getting it right" on this forum. That said, when it comes to safety -- these are not benign instruments that we carry in holsters -- I do tend to be a bit rough. But I'll try to do better :-)

I would suggest you should be suspicious of the "get a good belt" posts. Needing a good belt is a sign of a poor design (when talking concealment holsters at the waistline).

[Rednichols]

The FBI was the group most responsible for requiring significant cant in a holstered pistol, thinking that the cant made it faster to bring the gun onto target. This is pretty much an outmoded concept today. The growth of action shooting sports and tactical police teams has led widespread acceptance of a vertical draw and punch-out technique.

This is partially true, but not the whole story by any means. It's accepted that the "FBI tilt" was created to lead the gunman into a crouch when firing, and thereby to make a smaller target of himself. The vertical draw that was developed out of action shooting (I am one of the founders of the Bianchi Cup from which this was adapted) might not be ideally suited to the street; I wouldn't know, not being a gunman myself. But the FBI used an angle of as much as 40 degrees grip-forward -- and more importantly, exclusively used revolvers with NONE of the weight in the grip that is found in double-stack magged nines used today. Carry angles like this are not suitable to autos carried at, say, 3:30 along the waistline. Today we still use this position and have pulled back to the 20-25 degree range. Why? So we can comfortably conceal the darned thing, and still have a reasonable chance of grasping the weapon comfortably for the draw. I do suggest caution when considering carrying in front of the trousers seam (about 2:00) in the so-called appendix position that has been so popular on pistol ranges: when seated there are major parts of your anatomy in the way of a bullet (and yes, I do know someone who became "half a man" that way).

[chiefjason]

Welcome aboard Red. Or back aboard if that's the case.

[CAVE]

Thank you all for the information. I have been trying different styles and positions. I am still practicing, but things are getting better. I find I really like getting the trigger belt loop super close to the guns grip (like stated above). I did one with my SR22 that was low enough it got in the way of my grip. For the target range and for packing during trapping or hiking, I really liked it. Obviously it isn't ideal for self defense or quick draw, but it is a 22lr after all. Anyways, I am having fun trying out different ideas and styles thanks to you all.