Hem My Jeans

[paprhangr]

Since I have a Consew 206 RB 5, thought I try to hem my jeans.

Can anyone recommend what size thread and needle works best?

[gottaknow]

We hem most jeans with tex 80 thread and a size 125/20 needle. Regards, Eric

[paprhangr]

Thanks, tex 80 ? I am new to sewing,is that what I ask for at JoAnn store? I have bonded nylon 92 and I picked up some small spools of upholstery thread 300mm can they be used to sew jeans?

[TXAG]

I use type 'E' thread and a size 18 needle...or maybe 20? I forget...

F thread would work fine too though, but I find E is as durable as I need...

[paprhangr]

I dont understand the E & F threads? could you explain

[TXAG]

http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=nylon-thread

[paprhangr]

thanks for the link in the right direction now

[Wizcrafts]

I buy #80 Jeans thread from Wawak Tailor's Supply: www.wawak.com

[Tejas]

While not a thread answer, to help get over the seams I use a jean-a-ma-jig, AKA hump-jumper.

[Wizcrafts]

While not a thread answer, to help get over the seams I use a jean-a-ma-jig, AKA hump-jumper.

I used one of those until I got a walking foot machine. The OP also uses a walking foot machine and won't need the jig.

[paprhangr]

thanks for the help. i di hem 3 pairs of jeans and turned out good.

this trick i found on you tube about cutting out a little bit of that heavy hump

made it easy going over.

[gottaknow]

Nice job. You'll likely get some fray there where it's notched, but the rest of the rolled hem will keep it in check.

Regards, Eric

[Tejas]

Actually, I do have a compound walking-foot machine, but I'm a novice and sometimes I get over the seams easily and sometimes find the jean-a-ma-jig helpful.

[Cascabel]

I just give the knee lifter a quick bump if it has trouble climbing over a seam. Fix-a heem no problem !!

[paprhangr]

thanks, I love all the 'tricks" keep n comin

[Tejas]

For a little more detail, I use seam-stick rather than pins. Since seam-stick tends to gum-up the needle, it is applied toward the center of the hem away from the stitch line. The inside, flat-feeled seam is the hardest to get over, so I start toward the back on top of that seam, sew a few stitches, back-tack and then sew off that hump rather than over it. Starting on that seam also means that the starting and ending back-tacks are less visible. The regular seam on the other side is relatively easy to get over. The jean-a-ma-jig is helpful finishing on the flat-felled seam.

[Sunnyside Scott]

For a little more detail, I use seam-stick rather than pins. Since seam-stick tends to gum-up the needle, it is applied toward the center of the hem away from the stitch line. The inside, flat-feeled seam is the hardest to get over, so I start toward the back on top of that seam, sew a few stitches, back-tack and then sew off that hump rather than over it. Starting on that seam also means that the starting and ending back-tacks are less visible. The regular seam on the other side is relatively easy to get over. The jean-a-ma-jig is helpful finishing on the flat-felled seam.

Very close to what I do.

I use a walking foot machine using a #21 needle and #69 bonded nylon thread ( because thats what I build all my gear with).

I use sail tape ( a 3/8" double sided tape that doesn't stick to the needle) to hold my first roll then I chalk a line on the outside that I use as a guide for my second roll.

I start sewing on the inside of the leg behind the thick seam, to better hide my start and stop. I use a guide made out of a strip of 1/4" foam attached to my machine using the same double sided tape.

This method works like a champ and I have never had a seam failure.

Scott

[gottaknow]

We cheat in the factory when hemming our jeans. It's a Union Special 63900T which is a cylinder machine set up with a compensating foot. It has small rollers on the bottom and just to make sure the seams can be sewed over at high speed, there's a close-coupled puller. To cheat further, it also has an air operated hemming folder that makes a perfect 5/8" rolled hem. We bought 3 of these when we first made Levi's in the 80's. They are pretty bulletproof, made in Chicago. Each leg takes about 12 seconds depending on the operator. I do soak the Tex 80 thread in silicone to prevent melting. I'll snap a pic if I remember, it's a cool old machine.

Regards, Eric

[Wizcrafts]

Eric works in a magic place; a sewing Wonderland that most mortals can never see.