Hard Pulling Thread... Cowboy 4500

[Cascabel]

Wiz, when I got my Cobra 4, I could not pull thread from the take up arm, much less from the needle. I still have scars trying to get it right. It has become habit to reach up to the take up arm.

Cascabel, I do not wrap the thread around the top disc (just snap it in) and down. I do not go around the lower tension "pulley" but 3/4 and out through the spring. Both tension nuts are loose all the way. Just tight enough to keep them against he spring. Almost zero tension. And I cannot pull the thread with the product. And the C4 sews great.

Couple of pictures.

Apparently you read my posting wrong....... I only pull it down between the top tension discs, I do NOT wrap it around the top tension discs. I DO wrap it around the bottom tensioner per the instructions.

Edited November 16, 2013 by Cascabel

[Hillbilly tim]

When I bought my cobra class 4, steve told me it was a normal matter of operation to raise the presser foot and then pull the thread at the take up arm only when it is at the top of its travel to allow extra thread and easy product removal.

Bro Tim

[Wizcrafts]

I have my machine (CB4500) and my friend's Cobra C4 set up so we can pull the work out by simply lifting the feet. But, I find it works best when the threads are pulled backwards and down. The only time this doesn't work is when I have had to crank up the top tension tighter than usual. There are even a few instances where I had to also tighten up the bottom roller disk, to get enough pull to bring the knots up. Then, I do have to pull the thread out of the take-up arm manually. But, those are exceptions for me.

I have tried a lot of brands of thread and found that no two are the same any more. Black thread is the most troublesome, both for sewing, coiling up, and pulling out. Some brands of thread unravel too easily (poorly bonded). I have 2 spools of light colored thread that are almost useless because of unraveling.

[Wizcrafts]

Almost forgot...

It is also easier to pull the top thread out through the needle is the needlebar is on the downstroke a bit. This has to do with the angle of the thread as it leaves the last steel loop guide, then goes through the guide on the needle bar. Just jiggling the wheel back and forth, with the feet raised (and work out), helps loosen the thread for removal.

[PappyUSA]

Try backing off both the top and bottom tension springs. Also, get another spool of black and run it instead. Black thread is often double-dyed, making it drier and springier than almost any other color.

I learn something every time I read one your posts!

[SteelcityK9Cop]

Thanks for all the assistance everyone!!! I lowered both tension knobs 1/4 turn and the stitches do not seem to be sinking in as far.... I attached two photos below from some practice scrap i attacked tonight. I over oiled yesterday and some snuck onto my presser foot and onto my scrap apparently.

As for the tight thread.... the tension adjustment helped a good bit... but the biggest help was waiting for the needle to travel about 1/4" back down from the upright position. I also noticed something odd... I get higher presser foot lift from the foot pedal than I do with the presser foot lever. I am going to have to see if using the lever was leaving too much tension on the thread.

TOP THREAD:

BOBBIN THREAD:

[Northmount]

Leave some folded paper towel under the presser foot to pickup excess oil, then wipe the feet and stuff above when you are ready to start sewing next time.

Tom