Ambassador leatheroo Posted December 10, 2013 Ambassador Report Posted December 10, 2013 hi guys, here's my solution to the problem as taught by peter main. Good CLEAR ruler with metal edge if possible. The ruler should be marked in parallel and vertical lines to help get things square. My favourite is a quilting ruler. When it comes to cutting, use what ever is comfortable and appropriate to the thickness of the leather....as long as it is SHARP. Now comes the technique.....ONLY EVER CUT DIRECTLY OPPOSITE TO THE HAND PRESSING DOWN ON THE RULER. So if i wanted a yard length cut, i would start with the ruler set straight, starting at the top, left hand pressing down on ruler, i would make a firm cut about 6 inches long....then without lifting the blade, my left hand snakes down the ruler and i continue cutting only when there is pressure on the ruler opposite to where i want to cut.....continue moving down the leather. Your hands should always be opposite each other. It sounds a awkward, but many of you probably do this without thinking, and the movement gets to be quite fluid and produces a nice straight cut . Hope this helps cheers caroline Quote "]http://leatheroo.blogspot
Members nwdetectorist Posted January 11, 2014 Members Report Posted January 11, 2014 Parralax Error and Natural Lighting (the real sunshine) or Natural Lighting Products (full spectrum) http://www.ehow.com/how_10000073_prevent-parallax-error.html Errors in Measurement http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallax The lighting that I use to help with my no-line bifocals, so that I may actually get something crafted right. These lights can be purchased at Fred Meyers, Krogers, and other retailers. I am also a newbie/returning to a long lost hobby of mine, and no I do not always do so well with getting clean edges and a nice square layout. Learning to be a professional is learning how to adjust for, integrate, and hide those minor errors in fabrication:) Thanks, nwdetectorist Quote
Members Sturme Posted January 11, 2014 Members Report Posted January 11, 2014 I had this issue, then I switched to a cork backed ruler, and a head knife. I really feel the head knife made a huge difference. main thing is to keep your head knife sharp, and read up on proper usage of it. Quote
Members Nuttish Posted January 16, 2014 Members Report Posted January 16, 2014 I find the lack of feedback and accuracy using a ruler unacceptable. Even a clear ruler obscures the edge. It's also far too easy to make irreparable errors if the straightedge slips. When I rarely use a ruler and rotary cutter on unfinished vegetable tanned leather, I use a heavy steel carpenter's straightedge that I glued latex strips to. They have far better grip than cork. You can get them as large rubber bands for artists's drafting clipboards at Blick. Latex will still slip on waxy or fatty tannages. Now I lay lines out with a sharp awl and a heavy steel straightedge and freehand a very sharp round knife. I just find it easier to get better cuts this way. You can roll in and out of your cuts to avoid distorting the leather and getting bowed ends and it's easier to nibble in to correct those inevitable little deviations from the line or make them less obvious by stretching the error over a longer distance. Stand over your work so you can both get the appropriate mount of blade into the leather and cutting surface and make sure your knife is straight. Unlike the rotary cutter, which doesn't always make it easy to tell whether you've made a clean vertical cut in one pass, you get useful feedback from the round knife telling you you're doing well. YMMV. Quote
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