A Little Guidance With Dying Leather

[Meinshnake]

I have been working on some small wallet pieces, dyeing in two different colours (Fiebings USMC black and oxblood for different wallets) however, I have seen an inconsistency where the oxblood dye completely obsorbed, looks incredible and doesn't come off on my rag what so ever when I buff it. However, the black seemed to dry on top of the leather and comes off to a great extent onto my rag and I can see some of the original leather colour through the dye. I am going to attempt a second coat tomorrow morning to see if I can get the black to hold a consistent colouring, However I just wanted to ask and ensure this is a normal occurance.

P.S. I simply dampened the leather and then applied the dye with a sponge. I have heard about watering down the dye but was just keeping it simple for this test.

[chiefjason]

Try deglazing it. You can use deglazer, denatured alcohol, or naptha. I use alcohol. Naptha is a bit strong, I don't use it much. It takes any residue off the surface that would interfere with dying.

FWIW, I have had problems finding a black dye I like for those reasons. I mainly vinegroon my leather. But I just got a quart of feibings pro oil, and the first test is very promising. I'll probably dye my next holster with that. I cut it about 3 to 1 with denatured alcohol. The test strip was coated twice. Deglazed with alcohol. The first layer had a few spots that did not dye well. Second coat dyed solid black. Just buffed it a bit and very little rub off. I did not put a finish on it.

[Chief31794]

Nearly all black dyes are going to have residual pigment on the surface after they dry. You can buff it really well before applying a finish and that will take care of it. Resolene or Tan Kote, etc will remove the remainder after buffing (a lot of buffing). I think you will find that Fiebings Pro Oil Black is a little better than the USMC black. I used USMC for a long time, but converted to Pro Oil dyes, they work better. I also mostly dip dye projects which causes them to absorb more dye, as well as I use denatured alcohol to "open up" the surface a little before I dye. I wipe the denatured alcohol on then immediately dip the item into the dye. But still, nearly all blacks will require a lot of buffing to remove the residual pigment on the surface.

Just my opinion, others may have other methods or better dyes.

Chief

[electrathon]

Try dyeing your item dark brown first, then black.

[Dwight]

Rather than for me to re-write it, . . . read what Chief31794 said again, . . . it's all right on my experience as well.

I still have a bottle of USMC, . . . but will only use it when it is specifically asked for.

And, . . . yes, . . . dip dyeing has for me been THE preferred manner of dying. Browns I cut 50/50, . . . blacks I don't cut at all.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Cyberthrasher]

If you can't dip-dye because of the need for other colors on the piece, airbrushing works well to get black nice and even every time.

[Feraud]

I think you will find that Fiebings Pro Oil Black is a little better than the USMC black. I used USMC for a long time, but converted to Pro Oil dyes, they work better.

Hi Chief, can you elaborate a bit on what about the Pro Oil works better than the Fiebings USMC Black? I've only used the USMC and so far have received good results with the required buffing out of residual particles left on the surface.

I'm wondering if I am missing out on using the Pro Oil line..

Appreciate it.

[Chief31794]

Hi Chief, can you elaborate a bit on what about the Pro Oil works better than the Fiebings USMC Black? I've only used the USMC and so far have received good results with the required buffing out of residual particles left on the surface.

I'm wondering if I am missing out on using the Pro Oil line..

Appreciate it.

The pro oil series is just better dyes. They penetrate better, have more consistency, etc. The Pro Oil Black still gives you the deep shiney black that USMC does, it just does it better, don't know how to explain it, but I get much more consistent results with the Pro Oil dyes than with the Normal Fiebings dyes. Buy a small bottle and try it. You may like the USMC better, most people that try the pro oil dyes seem to stay with them as opposed to going back the the normal dyes.

Chief

Chief

[Feraud]

Thanks Chief. I am going to try a small bottle and give it a try.

[Meinshnake]

Well, first and foremost, thankyou all for the very constructive information. I wasn't able to dip die the piece, however 3 coats of USMC yielded fairly stellar results. However still doesn't look quite as cool as the oxblood with white thread

[thekid77]

I have been working on some small wallet pieces, dyeing in two different colours (Fiebings USMC black and oxblood for different wallets) however, I have seen an inconsistency where the oxblood dye completely obsorbed, looks incredible and doesn't come off on my rag what so ever when I buff it. However, the black seemed to dry on top of the leather and comes off to a great extent onto my rag and I can see some of the original leather colour through the dye. I am going to attempt a second coat tomorrow morning to see if I can get the black to hold a consistent colouring, However I just wanted to ask and ensure this is a normal occurance.

P.S. I simply dampened the leather and then applied the dye with a sponge. I have heard about watering down the dye but was just keeping it simple for this test.

I was having similar problems with black dye as well...I was using the Tandy Eco-Flo Coal Black....here is something that worked for me:

Dye the leather black, then while still wet, buff a thin coat of neatfoot oil onto the leather. Allow it to dry and add a second coat of dye if necessary, again buffing with a thin coat of neatsfoot oil. Once the project is dry, buff with a microfiber cloth.

I found that when I applied the finish (resolene cut 50/50 with distilled water), I would get a lot of black dye lifting off. So here's what I did...

Take an old piece of cotton shirt, fold it up into a square, and tip the bottle of resolene onto it. Then, tip your bottle of black dye over that (so there is resolene and black dye in the same spot. The key to application is building up thin coats of resolene with the black dye mixed in (you can blot or swipe the shirt on a piece of scrap paper). As the resolene cures, it will freeze the black dye where it's at. There will be some dye lift, but that is where building up the coats of resolene+black dye comes in to play. When the resolene cures, the grain side of your piece will be completely waterproof, and no black dye will come off at all...

Incidentally, I discovered a youtube video which gives some tips and even pointed to the existence of a "black resolene" which is probably just resolene cut with black dye...this is not the gospel, just what worked for me...in leatherworking there are so many ways to skin a cat...

Good Luck!!!

[r lenna]

I like to use Fiebings Oil dye. You want to wait until the piece is dry. I then give it a coat of Neatsfoot oil then dye the part. The oil helps to even the dye. Rob