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I would probably mold it first, and then stitch it.

Is the process much different?

Good news is you get the stitch lines right. I do all of my holsters like that too.

Cut the back piece the exact size you want to finish with. Cut the front larger to give yourself some wiggle room. Mold front. Then position it where you want it on the back piece. Mark it for the correct position and glue it. Cut it to final size. Edge the edges. Set your stitch lines. Awl and stitch. Dye. Finish.

That's pretty close to my process.

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Posted

Good news is you get the stitch lines right. I do all of my holsters like that too.

Cut the back piece the exact size you want to finish with. Cut the front larger to give yourself some wiggle room. Mold front. Then position it where you want it on the back piece. Mark it for the correct position and glue it. Cut it to final size. Edge the edges. Set your stitch lines. Awl and stitch. Dye. Finish.

That's pretty close to my process.

The only difference, . . . I will sew down one side first, . . . sight track side mostly, . . . then only wet the "front", . . . which gives most of my hosters a flatter if not flat back, . . . which to me is more comfortable (I'm a bony old rascal with not much padding :lol: ).

On my "fold overs", . . . I just wet the front piece, . . . when it's all dry, . . . complete it.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

Now if you could just give me the secret to stitching the trigger side with a BOSS and get the foot to turn away from the frame. I can't get it to turn with the mold in the way and seem to throw too much slack in the thread trying to wiggle, move, and side stitch it. I might have to start a thread on that.

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Posted

Heavy molding ,..I'll soak in hot water,..then oven dry on low temp. Light molding,..I'll just wet with a rag,..like extreme casing,...and let air dry to shape. I have made templates from wood that I use for cases, mag pouches and such,..wet leather,...clamp it in the templates until dry....

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Posted

I am trying to start attempting to do some leather molding. Does everyone purchase the wood molds of create them? I can not see myself creating wood blocks to mold with. Thank you

They actually are very simple to make in most cases. My first one was for a .45 magazine carrier, . . . had it working in about 1/2 hour.

PM me if you want, . . . with some "ideas" as to what you want to mold, . . . dimensions / description / etc. I'll give you an idea on a price for a mold if you don't want to make it yourself.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

Thank you Dwight. I am just starting to venture into this and would like to start out with just basic things. So you build, and sand wood blocks to create to replica your projects?

I know for things such as guns, knives etc, could possibly just mold around them but items such as purses etc seems to be a project in itself to just create the mold.

Thanks

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Posted

Most make their own or have them made for them. I have a friend who is a wood worker and trade leatherwork for woodwork.

In addition to the excellent advice and video link, here, I highly recommend two books: The Art of Making Leather Cases (volume one) by Al Stohlman and The Leatherworking Handbook by Valery Michael.

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Posted

So you build, and sand wood blocks to create to replica your projects?

Look at this little drawing: the green and grey is called the male mold, the orange and blue is the female.

It will make an item like a little dish with an edge.

The male is made to the exact dimension you want of the depth of the dish, . . . and the diameter of the opening in the dish.

The female is made to those same dimensions, . . . except the hole has to be increased in diameter by twice the thickness of the leather.

If this were a 6 inch dish we are making, . . . 1/2 inch deep, . . . making it out of 8 oz leather, . . . the male mold would be 6 inches in diameter, . . . and 1/2 inch tall. The female circle/hole would be also 1/2 inch deep, . . . but would be 6 and 1/4 inches in diameter.

Get the leather real good soppy wet, . . . lay it over the male mold, . . . force the female mold down around the leather covering the male, . . . clamp all four corners, . . . leave it for a couple of hours, . . . remove the clamps, . . . gently slip off the leather, . . . place it near a fan or in a drying oven, . . . when it is dry, . . . trim the outside edges to the size you wanted.

Remember when you make a mold, . . . any imperfections in the mold will be transmitted to the leather, . . . so sand it good. I don't put any finish on my molds, . . . wanting the wood to leach out the water from the leather, . . . and that works really well.

Have fun, may God bless,

Dwight

post-6728-0-89205200-1402141643_thumb.jp

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

Thanks Bob, I will definately get those books and do some research.

Dwight, that helped alot, thank you so much for taking the time to explain it to me.

I am excited to design one (probably small project) and see what I can do..

:spoton:

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