Lci Clear Lac Question

[jynelle]

Hi friends,

I've just started working with LCI Clear-Lac (brushing it on full-strength) and would like to thin it a bit. Does anyone have a source for LCI thinner? And/or does the DYO thinner sold at Panhandle Leather work with the LCI Clear-lac?

Thanks,

Jynelle

[Cyberthrasher]

Springfield carries it all too. It is lacquer though, so you could use lacquer thinner.

http://springfieldleather.com/23272/Thinner%2CClear-Lac%2C32oz/

[jynelle]

Thanks! I'll go ahead and order from them--much appreciate your response!

[ToddB 68]

Hi Everyone !

I would like to use "Clear Lac" as an edge finish for my first leather project, a digging tool sheath, and will be using a felt-tipped pen I made as an applicator. Not knowing what my needs are going to be for bulk supplies in the future, I'm trying to keep initial costs down until I see how far I go with this new-to-me leatherwork hobby.

After browsing their website for the products I want and checking shipping charges, I've decided to buy the following items from Springfield Leather and registered on their website.

- Fiebing's Leathercraft CEMENT, 4oz. .............. $5.00

- Fiebing's Yellow Paste Saddle Soap, 3.5oz.........3.99

- Fiebing's Glycerine Saddle Soap #34-222102.....5.99

As mentioned in the first paragraph, I would like to use Clear Lac as an edge finish, however, the smallest container offered at Springfield is the 32oz. Quart @ $18.99 and it would weigh at least 2 lbs., so UPS standard shipping is going to make this single item real expensive for me and at this early stage in my Leatherworking career, who knows if I will ever use the bulk of it.

So, unless I can find a smaller container of Clear Lac at a lower price and weight (to reduce S&H cost), I will have to locate a different supplier for this product that sells a similar edge finish at a lower price and weight.

Does anyone know #1..If LCi makes a smaller container of Clear Lac and who sells it ? I made several attempts to find the LCi website and product list, but no luck. I've already looked at WYO Quik Slik and it comes In a 4oz. container for $4.50, but UPS Std. Shipping (Lowest cost method listed) is $22.49 ! And #2..What other similar product option(s) do I have with lower product price & weight ?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer for my dilemma with the edge finish.

ToddB68

Edited February 4, 2014 by ToddB68

[terrymac]

I believe Panhandle offers it at $15.00 for the same size, and I don't believe you will find a small container. I bought some Quik Slick some time ago. and even with the high shipping cost, was one of the best buys I ever made. It is a great product and lasts a long time, and you would not need the saddle soap nor glycerine. I would not be without it.

Terry

[ToddB 68]

Hi terrymac

Thanks for the information !

I'm following the "Finishing Edges" process by Bob Park (hidepounder) and he uses the Fiebing's glycerine and yellow saddle soaps to rub and burnish edges prior to dyeing and finishing edges with Neat Lac (Now made by LCi as Clear Lac), so that's why I was planning on using those two products, as you probably guessed. These help to produce the smooth shape and final appearance on the edges that Bobby is known for and I am trying to duplicate.

You say that when using the Quik Slik I would not need the two soaps mentioned above. So what do you use to burnish leather edges with and do you get the appearance Bobby does ? (See How Do I Do That ? forum and Finishing Edges , by Bob Park and the picture lower down on his tutorial of the edges with this process.)

BTW, I checked Panhandle's website and yes, they offer a quart of Clear Lac for $15.00 and according to their Check Out, no taxes or Shipping charges, which is a plus for them. However, for me that's still too stiff on the cost of a single item when added to what I've already spent on my first leather project, plus what I plan to spend as listed in my above post #4.

I know you love Quik Slik , but with the high Shipping I must pass on that one and at this point, I'm still hoping someone can suggest an alternate product that works as good as Clear Lac, but in a smaller oz. container and less total cost for a beginning Leathercrafter . Maybe that's a "pipe dream" ! STILL LOOKING FOR HELP ON THIS !

Cheers !

ToddB68

Edited February 5, 2014 by ToddB68

[NVLeatherWorx]

The age old method of making beautiful edges requires a sponge, a little bit of water, and a slicking device (I use the same old wooden edger that I have had for a few years now). The first step is to use an edger (number 2 is the best unless you need a thicker skive) on both sides of the leather, moisten the edge and let it start to dry until damp, then just rub the edge fast enough to generate the heat needed to give the burnished appearance. The use of "quickies" like soaps, oils, spirits, etc. is just a shortcut and it doesn't allow the leather to actually be burnished (which is what you are really doing). You can only get a true sealed and set edge by doing a real burnish job on it. Besides, the use of saddle soaps is not a good idea on veg-tan leather as it will actually draw the natural oils out of the leather and dry it out.

[ToddB 68]

NVLeatherWorx ,

Wow ! Your post #7 kinda blows my mind ! That could hurt retail sales for certain products.

Do you still dye your edges, or do you just use the number 2, or whatever edge cutting tool, moisten with water, let dry until damp and burnish, doing nothing further ?

I was planning to use the saddle soaps on the edges only, following Bob Park's Finishing Edges tutorial, and then using 100% pure Neatsfoot Oil on all other surfaces to darken, soften and preserve my 12oz.leather sheath and give me that "oiled leather" look that I want.

But now that you have indicated saddle soap will actually draw the natural oils out of veg-tan leather and dry it out, I am caught between your advice and Bob Park's. Oh the joy of being caught between diametrically opposite advice from two different experts. I do appreciate your trying to help me reduce cost on supplies though.

In the beginning, I thought with all the leather working knowledge we have in our member base, I could gain the advantage of their experience and avoid trail and error, money misspent, etc. on my first project.

My objective was to find a reliable, economical, step-by-step process for doing edges that would give results like we see in the Bob Park's tutorial. However, it's looking like I might have to do some trial and error experimenting after all, to decide if I'm satisfied with the looks of your suggested process using no soaps. I do want dark-black edges though, not brown. I'll experiment on some scraps and see.

ToddB68

Edited February 5, 2014 by ToddB68

[terrymac]

Todd,

I, also, follow Bob Park's system except for using The Quick Slik rather that saddle soap and glycerine. NV is right about the old traditional manner of burnishing edges, I just get tired of rubbing and use something to speed up the process. Right now I am just using a piece of canvas to rub with, but am waiting for a new wood burnisher from the Ed the Bearman. I think the secret to any burnishing system is surface preparation.

Terry

[Randy Cornelius]

Any water or lacqor basised wood finish you find at the home center will work for a edge dressing after you slick your edges. You can get several small containers 1/2 pint and try several to see which ones work the best. That way you dont' have to order 32 oz of laquer and pay shipping.