PsychoSmart Report post Posted January 4, 2014 I wanted to work on some hand stitching today, went to the Tandy's, bought what I thought was the right tool for poking holes, an awl of sorts, item 3209-00, it isn't the right one. This is my second awl and neither of them are sharp enough to get through the leather and make the clean cuts like in everyone else's work... Help please... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Most awls need to be sharpened before using them, particularly Tandy Awls, they are notoriously dull and not very well made. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted January 4, 2014 It's not a high quality one, but you can sharpen it up to get the job done. Here's a video from Nigel Armitage on how to sharpen your awl blade. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted January 4, 2014 The set you got is the one with the lacing fid, scratch awl and two awl blades. The two awl blades are bigger then what I would use. If you are going to stay with Tandy then I would go with Awl Halft 3318-01 and diamond awl blade 3319-05. Like mentioned above you will need to sharpen it. Once sharpened it will work reasonably well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
r lenna Report post Posted January 4, 2014 I would check out this place first http://springfieldleather.com/store/search.asp they have better tools and prices than Tandy. I have a couple of the Osbourne awlsthey are very nice. If you want to get theCadilliac of awls this would be the place http://www.sheridanleather.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=awls&Submit=Search but thats $27 for just the blade. Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted January 4, 2014 +1 to Nigel's video Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoSmart Report post Posted January 4, 2014 After 4 run throughs of the video and about an hour trying, all I made was a pointy piece of metal, draws blood; does not pierce leather... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Troy Burch Report post Posted January 4, 2014 After 4 run throughs of the video and about an hour trying, all I made was a pointy piece of metal, draws blood; does not pierce leather... lol, yes sir. I'm whet stone incapable as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoSmart Report post Posted January 4, 2014 lol, yes sir. I'm whet stone incapable as well. Lol then how do you poke holes for stitching!? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groovytech Report post Posted January 4, 2014 After 4 run throughs of the video and about an hour trying, all I made was a pointy piece of metal, draws blood; does not pierce leather... Go get a Tetnus shot, call Springfield and get a real awl. You will still need to sharpen it, but the quality of the steel is better and holds the point and edges longer. ask any knifemaker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groovytech Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Take it to a 'sharpening service'. You can find them in the Analog Yellow Pages between 'Sewing Machines' and 'Sheds'. or you could google it. Still get the shot though....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Troy Burch Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Lol then how do you poke holes for stitching!? endeavor to persevere Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) If you have more money the whetstone savy you can order a douglas blade from Sheridan for $27.00 comes sharp enough to pierce your leather and your hand all at the same time. http://www.sheridanleather.com/Awl_Blades_p/dt-awl-blades.htm you do not need to by a Douglas Awl Haft ther3e are other awl hafts that will work. Edited January 5, 2014 by camano ridge Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted January 5, 2014 After 4 run throughs of the video and about an hour trying, all I made was a pointy piece of metal, draws blood; does not pierce leather... I went through the same frustration as you did a few months ago with the same thing...here is what I found that worked for me... Please refer to the first picture for a list of things that have been helpful to me: -Green Chrome Polishing Compound (usually available at any hardware store) -Paper business card with green polishing compound rubbed onto it (the card has to have a paper surface, not one with a glossy finish) -300-400 grit sharpening stone (this is just for grinding your starting edge on the awl blade) -600, 800, 1000, 2000 grit sandpaper -a flat surface, preferably a piece of steel, glass, or granite (not shown) Although the Tandy awl blades are definitely not the best, I have had success in sharpening them by using the following procedure: In the case of a new awl blade from Tandy (which are dull as a butterknife), I fix the blade in the awl handle, and go to work on the 300-400 grit sharpening stone using the technique illustrated in the second photo. Two keys to the sharpening technique from here on out that are ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL: 1. Keep each flat side of the awl blade FLAT against the sharpening surface (refer to the second attached photo) 2. Work each of the four sides of the awl blade back and forth on the sharpening surface an even number of times Once the edge of the awl blade is ground down fairly thin, you can move from the stone to the sandpaper. You will notice that there are lines (scratches) on the metal from the sharpening stone. Those scratches need to be gradually sanded away using a finer and finer grit progression of sandpaper. Any imperfections such as scratches, even the most minute scratches will prevent the awl from going through the leather smoothly... Starting with 600 grit, place the sandpaper on a flat surface (metal, glass, or granite) and work each of the four sides of the awl blade in the same fashion as you did on the stone until you see the scratches from the sharpening stone disappear (those scratches will be replaced by finer scratches of the 600 grit). Once you've done this, repeat the same technique with the 800 grit, then with the 1000 grit, then with the 2000 grit. Now take a paper business card, place it on a flat surface, and rub the green chrome polishing compound over the entire surface of the card (until the card is green). With the card still on the flat surface, you will take each of the four sides of the awl blade and work back and forth over the card (just as you did with the stone and the sandpaper). The green chrome polish is much finer grit than the 2000, and what you will notice is that it will provide the awl blade with a mirror polish. You will notice that as you work each side of the awl blade over the business card, it will leave behind black marks on the card. That is a good sign that the polish is doing its job and smoothing out any remaining scratches caused by the previous grits of sandpaper. One caveat: Do not rush from one grit to the next, or you will never get the little scratches out of your awl blade. The idea is that you make an investment in your time now to save time in the future. After you've finished with the green polish, take a scrap piece of leather on a flat surface, and work the blade in the same fashion as you did with the stone, sandpaper, and business card. All you are doing is polishing the blade. Finally, when you get ready to pierce your hole in the leather, tip the blade in some paraffin wax every so often and it will allow the blade to slide through the leather even more smoothly. If you can't see your reflection in the awl blade, it could be sharper. I am in now way an expert at sharpening, but this is the technique that has worked for me. Please forgive my explanation if the steps are difficult to follow. I would be happy to clear any confusion up if you just ask Good luck!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
r lenna Report post Posted January 5, 2014 I would agree with everything above, with the exception of the business card,and paraffin. It only takes a few mins to make a strop. you need a flat surface, I use wood it could be a ruler, 1" by 2", or a 2" by 4". Or you can use plastic or metal. Make sure that it's flat. If it's raw lumber, like a 2 x 4 it needs to be sanded smooth. Then you need a strip of firm leather. Glue the smooth side down. put a weight on it to keep it flat. and there's your strop. If you are doing veg tan leather and are waiting to finish the leather with dye, or stain. Don't use wax for the holes. It can cause problems later. Good luck. Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted January 5, 2014 A piece of 3/4" mdf makes a good stropping board. You can cut it to any convenient size. Extremely smooth flat surface. More durable than a business card. Don't need to attach a piece of leather to it. Some posters will tell you that a leather strop is too soft and tends to slightly round your sharp edges. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
