Shiny Finish?

[TXAG]

I noticed on some of the finished items in Gail Hought's books, there is a very shiny finish on them...I've tried to find in the books where she talks about how to do that, but cannot find anything about it.

How do you get a nice, shiny finish on your finished items? I'm using drum-stuffed roo right now, so mainly interested in that...though I've seen some nice rawhide work with shiny finishes too.

Anyone have any info on that?

[Leatherpownder]

I believe she was using a finish called Neatlac that could be bought through Tandy Leather. I would check with them and see if they still have that product or something similar.

[Peter T]

For things like hatbands, belts and the like I use a product from Maclace called Seal and Shine. One coat or maybe 2 simply brushed provides a really nice finish. I haven't used any of the products I hear about on the forum such as Neatlac so I can't compare but surely one of them 'seals and shines'.

For my whips, I apply several coats of diluted shellac. This gives a shine like polished boots which I think for whips is much nicer than a lacquer type finish.

Pete

[TXAG]

Ahh...I don't have any neat-lac and I hate tandy, so...I might be out of luck.

I do have some boot shine stuff that I used when I was in AIT in the Army (back when we still had Drill Sergeants at AIT)...it was more like a shine "preserver" I guess...you'd get your boots spit shined to where you could see your reflection in them like patent leather and then put this stuff on them and it would keep it shiny. Might have to try it on a test piece and see how it works...

[SethJ]

I can get anything like glass with Atom wax,..followed by Super Sheen spray.

[paprhangr]

resolene =GLOSS

[Tracym]

I tried resolene, and it is shiny, but made things very stiff. TXAG, I think you're gonna have a harder time if you hate all the major leather suppliers.

[paprhangr]

Several have said cut resolene with water which I have done but it still is shiny and stiff which is not what I prefer

but water rolls right off it

[Tracym]

I cut it with water also, and yep, still stiff.

[SethJ]

and you cant get a shine with atom wax???????

[TXAG]

TXAG, I think you're gonna have a harder time if you hate all the major leather suppliers.

I don't hate them all...just two.

[ASM]

I've used Fiebings Saddle Lac on bracelets, and Ipad cases and have good results, especially if you are using water based finishes. Nice shine and very water resistant.

[GrampaJoel]

I've had good results with this product. -->> http://www.sheridanleather.com/WyoSheen_p/wyosheen.htm

But never tried it on a braided piece.

Joel

Edited February 5, 2014 by GrampaJoel

[Early2rise]

Neatlac is now sold under the name clear lac and is available from panhandle leather. If you're using it in something that will flex a lot, cut it 50/50 with the thinner and apply lightly with a piece of sheeps wool.

The traditional finish for whips is said to be shellac but I have had less than desirable results. It looks good for a while but then starts to flake off and is very spotty.

Any finish you choose will eventually crack or flake if applied to heavily, especially with a lot of flexing.

[Peter T]

Yes, shellac can deliver poor results if not done well. Some of my early attempts ended up flaking a bit. After a couple of bad results I realized I was putting it on too thick.

Here's the brew I use as was taught to me by a champion whipmaker (plan ahead if you want to use it). Half fill a container with shellac flakes. I use a big instant coffee jar. Then put in enough methylated spirits to fill the container. Give it a shake every couple of days and let it settle (this might take a week or so, hence plan ahead!) Pour off the liquid that looks like a strong cup of tea into a jar. However much you've got, double it with methylated spirits and then you have your brew.

To apply, pour some on to a lint free cloth and rub it onto the whip. After a minute or so when it is dry, give it a light roll, then give it a buff with a soft cloth. Repeat that step. After the third application, no need to roll anymore, just buff when it is dry. For working whips, 3 coats is about right for a nice shine without overdoing it. For show whips, I might do 5 or so.

Since using this method, I've never had any of the issues that I experienced early on. I very much like the shine and feel it gives. Takes a bit longer to do than a coat of leather lacquer but for me, it's worth it. I know some very good whipmakers that use lacquer and their whips also look very nice, so that also works if done properly.

Pete