pgivens Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Please help!!! I dyed some veg tan last night for a project and it came out really bad and streaky. Is there anything I can do to fix it? It was done using Fiebings leather dye. I'm thinking the reason it came out so streaky is because the leather was too dry? I should maybe have dyed it while it was a little bit damp so it doesn't slurp up the dye the second it hits the leather? I don't have the original bottle anymore so I can't read the directions. Let me know if this is on the right track. More importantly, is there any way to salvage this? I don't mind if putting more coats on makes it darker, but how do I get the coloring to be more uniform? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Looks like it was done with a dauber, in straight lines. Do it in a circular overlapping motion. Use something larger than a dauber, like a 2" or so piece of sponge or sheepskin, or even some wadded up rag. Buff it well after it has dried. And yes, you can add another coat to it. Good luck, it should work out away for you. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sharkeyfinn Report post Posted April 21, 2014 hi, i had a similar thing happen on one of the first ipad covers i made, i used a dauber,but now i use sponges, put plenty on and move it around alot,circular motion after straight lines etc, just dont let it dry in to quickly, and keep adding untill its uniform ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pgivens Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks for the replies. I will definitely try again using a larger sponge. Is there any truth to my guess that the leather was too dry when I applied? Should I start with the leather more damp next time? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BDAZ Report post Posted April 21, 2014 (edited) Check Out Home Depot or Lowes. An inexpensive method for apply stains and dyes. Use the glass bottles for storage. You can mix the stains with water or denatured Alcohol depending on the product. Edited April 21, 2014 by BDAZ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Good advice from everyone above, but remember, if everything fails and it just doesn't look like you wanted it to; that's why they invented Black dye. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pgivens Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks, BDAZ, I will check that product out! That might be a good solution to my lack of dyeing skills. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BDAZ Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Worked for me! Cya! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Good advice from everyone above, but remember, if everything fails and it just doesn't look like you wanted it to; that's why they invented Black dye. Chief LOL. You can have it any color you want...as long as its black. I've totally done this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks for the replies. I will definitely try again using a larger sponge. Is there any truth to my guess that the leather was too dry when I applied? Should I start with the leather more damp next time? I'm not sure where you got the idea that water will help with a spirit or oil based dye, . . . believe me, . . . it will not. If anything, . . . it will make the job even worse. For lighter colors, . . . cut the dye with the appropriate thinner product. I have cut them up to 90% (1 part dye, 10 parts thinner) for a special effect one time. Turned out beautiful. And when you put it on, . . . put it on, . . . if it is not WET, . . . it is not enough dye. I actually quit the dauber, sponge, wool square idea, . . . got a couple of flat pans, . . . everything is dip dyed, . . . and I don't have dying problems. Period. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted April 22, 2014 I'm not sure where you got the idea that water will help with a spirit or oil based dye, . . . believe me, . . . it will not. If anything, . . . it will make the job even worse. For lighter colors, . . . cut the dye with the appropriate thinner product. I have cut them up to 90% (1 part dye, 10 parts thinner) for a special effect one time. Turned out beautiful. And when you put it on, . . . put it on, . . . if it is not WET, . . . it is not enough dye. I actually quit the dauber, sponge, wool square idea, . . . got a couple of flat pans, . . . everything is dip dyed, . . . and I don't have dying problems. Period. May God bless, Dwight This is what I need to do. Daubers are such a pain in the ass for anything that is a decent size. I've also had problems with spirit dye and water. I dyed something that looked dry but was obviously still damp b/c the sections of the leather that were wet came out much darker than the dry sections. Even after the item had dried completely. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pgivens Report post Posted April 22, 2014 I actually did dilute the dye about 50/50 with denatured alcohol. I'm not sure why I thought water would help either, but it seems like the problem is that when the dauber first touches the leather, wherever it is laid down heavy sucks it up and stays dark. Even if I coat the area right next to it 3 seconds later, it's too late. Like the amount of dye that first touches the leather is how dark it will be and there's no going back. I guess I'll just try to make sure I apply much more liberally from the get-go. That's where a large sponge or sheepskin. Speaking of sheepskin--can they be washed and reused? Seems pretty wasteful if not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted April 22, 2014 I dampen the leather slightly with water before I dye it. Not wet, just rub a wet sponge brush over it until it darkens a bit. Then I dye. Got the advice from Lobo for using Pro Oil Black. Works fantastically. So much so that I do it with my other colors now too. Seems to take less dye to get the color I want doing that. And swirl it on like have been suggested. You can pretty much bet on one coat not being enough if you are hand dying something. I generally dye the front, flip it and dye the back; then repeat as necessary. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted April 22, 2014 I, too, have better luck when leather is slightly damp. I use larger pieces of sheepskin with wool clipped short to apply. In most cases I try to be sure that surface is clean as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hillbilly tim Report post Posted April 23, 2014 Damp leather will dye very well. I generally use a misting from a spray bottle and allowed to "level" it's self to become even. A better solution to repair splotchy dye issues is adding dye to some "bick4" it will evenly adsorb using it. I have even repaired items that were otherwise perfect except for a dot, spot ,or streak by treating the area with bick4 rubbed in well excess wiped off and then immediately dye resulting in a perfect dye job. Bick4 is a leather conditioner that allows even absorbing. I love it. It's also good for cracking skin around your fingertips too!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pgivens Report post Posted April 28, 2014 Just to give an update, I did save the piece! I bought one of the Preval sprayers, and while I do really like it, it wasn't the best tool for fixing my botched work. I ended up using a sponge, applying generous amounts, and rubbing in circular motions as was suggested. I will definitely use the Preval sprayer in the future. I think it will help me get a nice even coat the first time around. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites