Can This Splotchy Dye Job Be Fixed?

[Hi Im Joe]

I'm not sure where you got the idea that water will help with a spirit or oil based dye, . . . believe me, . . . it will not. If anything, . . . it will make the job even worse.

For lighter colors, . . . cut the dye with the appropriate thinner product. I have cut them up to 90% (1 part dye, 10 parts thinner) for a special effect one time. Turned out beautiful.

And when you put it on, . . . put it on, . . . if it is not WET, . . . it is not enough dye. I actually quit the dauber, sponge, wool square idea, . . . got a couple of flat pans, . . . everything is dip dyed, . . . and I don't have dying problems. Period.

May God bless,

Dwight

This is what I need to do. Daubers are such a pain in the ass for anything that is a decent size.

I've also had problems with spirit dye and water. I dyed something that looked dry but was obviously still damp b/c the sections of the leather that were wet came out much darker than the dry sections. Even after the item had dried completely.

[pgivens]

I actually did dilute the dye about 50/50 with denatured alcohol. I'm not sure why I thought water would help either, but it seems like the problem is that when the dauber first touches the leather, wherever it is laid down heavy sucks it up and stays dark. Even if I coat the area right next to it 3 seconds later, it's too late. Like the amount of dye that first touches the leather is how dark it will be and there's no going back.

I guess I'll just try to make sure I apply much more liberally from the get-go. That's where a large sponge or sheepskin.

Speaking of sheepskin--can they be washed and reused? Seems pretty wasteful if not.

[chiefjason]

I dampen the leather slightly with water before I dye it. Not wet, just rub a wet sponge brush over it until it darkens a bit. Then I dye. Got the advice from Lobo for using Pro Oil Black. Works fantastically. So much so that I do it with my other colors now too. Seems to take less dye to get the color I want doing that.

And swirl it on like have been suggested. You can pretty much bet on one coat not being enough if you are hand dying something. I generally dye the front, flip it and dye the back; then repeat as necessary.

[oltoot]

I, too, have better luck when leather is slightly damp. I use larger pieces of sheepskin with wool clipped short to apply. In most cases I try to be sure that surface is clean as well.

[Hillbilly tim]

Damp leather will dye very well. I generally use a misting from a spray bottle and allowed to "level" it's self to become even. A better solution to repair splotchy dye issues is adding dye to some "bick4" it will evenly adsorb using it. I have even repaired items that were otherwise perfect except for a dot, spot ,or streak by treating the area with bick4 rubbed in well excess wiped off and then immediately dye resulting in a perfect dye job. Bick4 is a leather conditioner that allows even absorbing. I love it. It's also good for cracking skin around your fingertips too!!!

[pgivens]

Just to give an update, I did save the piece! I bought one of the Preval sprayers, and while I do really like it, it wasn't the best tool for fixing my botched work. I ended up using a sponge, applying generous amounts, and rubbing in circular motions as was suggested.

I will definitely use the Preval sprayer in the future. I think it will help me get a nice even coat the first time around.