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LTC

To Line, Or Not To Line...

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well as always, I have tried in vain to search for answers to this before posting and wasn't able to find much.

i'm making a bag using a nice double shoulder. the grain side looks great...but the flesh side, not so much. there's some kind of cross-hatched texturing on the flesh side and it doesn't look very good.

i was thinking about lining it with pigskin, but the plans i'm using don't call for that, so I'm not sure it will look ok stitched all the way around.

also, if i go ahead and line it, should i turn the edges of the lining under before gluing? this leather burnishes very nicely. should i finish the edges of the leather before gluing the liner on?

for the shoulder strap, i'm considering gluing and stitching on a second length of the same leather, flesh-to-flesh because of the bad flesh side finish. this leather is about 4 - 5oz so i'm hoping it won't be too thick if i do that.

i apologize if these are stupid questions. i just want to make sure i'm making this bag the best i can and want it to look good when it's finished.

thanks for any guidance.

Edited by LTC

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If you are using regular veg tan leather, . . . you can use an orbital sander on the flesh side, . . . and you can smooth it down very nicely, . . . if you take your time and you are careful.

Try it on a piece of scrap first.

Or you can cut the pigskin lining so it just comes up to the stitches, . . . into the seam, . . . but is not stitched. Again, a process that requires planning, and careful execution, . . . but yields good results.

Contact cement will hold the liner in place probably far longer than the person will keep the bag.

Just a personal thing, . . . I don't like to line purses and bags, . . . my wife has one I purchased for her some 40 + years ago, . . . it still is beautiful inside as well as out, . . . made out of about 12 oz leather, . . . oiled finish, . . . and had it had a thin lining, . . . it would have long ago been cut up by keys, pens, and other stuff put in the purse.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

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Line it. Nothing says "cheap" like an un-lined bag. In fact, if you're using 4/5 oz, a little firming up likely wouldn't hurt.

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Thanks for your input, Dwight...i will keep your advice in mind. the thing is the design doesn't call for it to be stitched around the edges all the way around...so paradoxically, if i line it the way you recommended (which sounds like it would look great, btw)...there wouldn't be any stitching around the edges because i wouldn't be using it to attach anything...if that makes sense...

JLSleather...how would you recommend handling the edges if i line it? turn the lining under, then stitch? or just line it up to the edges and stitch?

thanks for y'alls thoughts...

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Arthur Porter You Tube video's taught me how to make a bag with a fabric liner.

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yeah - if i do line it, i plan on using pigskin though.

Edited by LTC

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What type of bag are you using, and what type of pigskin? As a rule, I glue down the liner, THEN sew and burnish. Suppose it depends on what you're making.

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it's the one Nigel Armitage sells plans for..small ipad messenger bag.

using the "mission grain" pigskin...very thin, but feels quite tough/durable...

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I've seen the mission grain stuff. Not my favorite. Too brittle to bend sharply, too thick for lining pocket goods. If you're going to fold in the edges, I'd do it gently and stitch quite close to the edge. I have used it on the occasional flat goods - portfolios / sketch pads and such for the young - since it's redeeming value is is wipes off.

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the stuff i have doesn't seem brittle at all...pretty flexible...

ok, well i will think about what everyone's said and try to figure the best route to go...thanks again...

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A few years ago I was given a bunch of that mission grain pigskin and used it to line various things. As I recall, you can put something like edge kote on and make a pretty decent edge. Also, I'm pretty sure I've seen Nigel Armitage use edge kote on his stuff so that would fit the design.

You can cut the pigskin oversized, glue it to the cow, then trim them flush. Sand your edge well then do your edge kote and don't forget to burnish. I always went back over the edge kote with some wax and a slicking stick. It didn't look too bad.

Another option is to get some veg tan pigskin for lining and then just finish the edges like you would normally do.

If you roll the edges of the lining and extend them to the edges of the exterior leather there will be a small gap between the two. You could maybe hammer that flat then glue it down, but I never had any success making a good edge that way with the cheap stuff.

Another option: on the goods japan website I saw a gum trag replacement that is supposed to be good for making a nice finish on the back of leather. I've not used it so I don't know how well that works.

Edited by cst

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