Pfaff 335-17B S Journey To The Unknown!

[Trox]

Hi Jimi,

first; there are tools for pulling out broken screws (see pic.). We call them "grisepigg" in Norwegian; and direct translated to English that will be "pigtails". I do not know if thats the English name of them, thought. you drill a small hole in the middle off the screw and screw it in, its links threaded and will unscrew your broken bolt. Then soak your "project" in diesel or paraffin (if you can afford that) and let it stay for some days, leave it in there when you work on small parts (24 hours will help too). That will take care of the stuck parts and some surface rust. looks like you missing its base, with the hinge and screw tabs? Write to Pfaff industrial info@pfaff-industrial.com and ask for the service manual and part list (report every number on its brass plate in right order) I am sure they will send you the original pdf`s for your machine, they are very helpful there. So far I have not seen any of your pictured broken parts that cannot be replaced with aftermarket parts, or can be taken from another Pfaff class.

Good luck

Tor

[Trox]

You can forget about original Pfaff parts, then its cheaper to buy a new machine. Example Pfaff 345 binding needle plate $900,-

They are hand made in Germany and are out of the question if you want to keep your budget low. There are old broken sewing machines laying all over the world, it was made allot of these 335`s. Everybody used this class, small leather, jeans, synchronized binding work and so on. Its a nice little machine for small project and thin threads (max tex 69 or tkt 40). They where made of the best German steel ever made, so you better hope your broken screw are not hardened ones. Every one that have tried to modify original Pfaff plates and feet`s know what I am talking about. These machines are pretty easy to find used to a descent price, because the smaller subclasses will not take heavy threads. So its important to keep you budget low.

good luck

Tor

[billybopp]

That looks like a challenging project, but if it works out a good one. Before you start drilling or cutting on screws to remove them, try some of this if you can find it: http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05330 It's sold under a few different names and brands which are listed on the CRC website.

It's been around for decades in one form or another and just about works miracles. My grandfather used to work on heavy construction equipment that sat out in the weather year round, and was all too often rusted. Spray some on where it will penetrate .. Ideally from both sides of the screw if you can get to it, let it sit for awhile .. even over night .. and then give the screw a try.

Tor: We call them "screw extractors" here in the US. They do indeed work well as a last resort. Be careful when using them, however, as they are usually EXTREMELY hard to the point of being brittle and will easily break if you aren't careful with them.

Hope that helps

Bill

[Trox]

Can anybody tell me what the -17B S stands for??

This is a old machine and before they started to use H subclasses (I guess, since it misses on the plate) Normally (on later machines) the "B" always stands for version B. "17" stands for sewing equipment class number (which feed dog, foot and so on) "S" stands for "Stoff"= fabric and "L"= for leather and so on. Where are you based? in case I find some old Pfaff parts laying around.

Tor

[jimi]

Thanks for the replys, i am based in spain tor and the only parts for now needed are the presser foot screw on top and the nut that holds the pully and balance wheel on. i managed to get all of the broken screws out by drilling a small hole and hammering in the screwdriver. i can even manage to get by with the presser foot screw by sawing a cut in the head and screwing it in with a small screwdriver? i will upload some more pictures as it is moving faster than my typing he he.

[jimi]

Here are some more updates, and more to come!!

[jimi]

I hope this is not to boring?? here are more!

[jimi]

As you can see the stitch length regulator screw had to be stolen from my stanley 50 plane. lucky i had a spare part one lying around, because the threads are unf,unc etc so you cant go to the hardware store and get one. fits great and it is nickel plated! the base is made from scrap sheet metal, 7mm thick and then sanded to get the rust off. tell you the truth there is not much rust there. to help get the right size i have screwed the sides on the base which helps me put the machine on top and adjust better.

[Constabulary]

oooh men - you really have fully stripped it. Good luck with adjusting it when you have assembled it again.

I will send pictures of my "spare parts machine" tomorrow.

[jimi]

more stuff here.