Stiffening Leather

[vaalpens]

I am probably going to sound stupid and uninformed, but I am going to ask the dumb question anyway. Why do you need to stiffen leather by putting it in a heat box? After I have done all the gluing, stitching, forming, overnight drying, oiling, dying and whatever finish I put on, it seems that the holster is plenty stiff. Maybe I am just missing something or just don't have enough experience yet. I try and keep my leather holsters as natural as possible for longevity, but if heating the holster will help preserving the leather even longer, then maybe it is something I should also try.

[JLSleather]

I am probably going to sound stupid and uninformed, but I am going to ask the dumb question anyway. Why do you need to stiffen leather by putting it in a heat box? After I have done all the gluing, stitching, forming, overnight drying, oiling, dying and whatever finish I put on, it seems that the holster is plenty stiff. Maybe I am just missing something or just don't have enough experience yet. I try and keep my leather holsters as natural as possible for longevity, but if heating the holster will help preserving the leather even longer, then maybe it is something I should also try.

Me, too, Vaalpens. No cookin here 'cept the beef I'm having when I'm done for the day. Using HO leather, by the time it's thoroughly dry it's quite firm enough.

Now, I can see the exception being what Lobo is talkin' about a few back - when you have 50 rigs / week goin through... tough to wait on those to dry. If you do a handful / week, that can be done just like any other project.... carve it, set it over there while you work on something else. Color it, put it over there for a while ... etc.

I have a holster for a Glock sitting in front of me right now what's purdy firm, no bakin'. No need to shoot anybody - feller gits outta line I'll just whop 'im with this holster ....

[Red Cent]

It is going to depend upon where you get your leather and what tannery it came from. I usually buy local. Burnishes to a mirror finish. The only wet I used on this stuff is when I squirt the area to fold the holster and at the end when I clean it with Lexol and water. Dries hard. Very Hard. I ordered some leather and it was beautiful. But very, very soft and supple. My usual procedure did not work the same. They were not stiff enough for a SASS shooter. Especially the speed demons and my reverse sewn holsters. So I turned to the gang. And discovered a bunch bake their holsters.

I ordered from the same guy the other day. He promised stiffer and dry (somewhat) leather. Should be here today.

This ain't soft.

[vaalpens]

Me, too, Vaalpens. No cookin here 'cept the beef I'm having when I'm done for the day. Using HO leather, by the time it's thoroughly dry it's quite firm enough.

Now, I can see the exception being what Lobo is talkin' about a few back - when you have 50 rigs / week goin through... tough to wait on those to dry. If you do a handful / week, that can be done just like any other project.... carve it, set it over there while you work on something else. Color it, put it over there for a while ... etc.

I have a holster for a Glock sitting in front of me right now what's purdy firm, no bakin'. No need to shoot anybody - feller gits outta line I'll just whop 'im with this holster ....

So it is just a question of how controlled you want your process or the stiffness of the leather. I just thought maybe I was missing something and should be looking into putting my holsters into the oven. The last thing I want to do is start using the oven and then my wife will start demanding that I do the cooking since I now know how to use the oven.

[vaalpens]

It is going to depend upon where you get your leather and what tannery it came from. I usually buy local. Burnishes to a mirror finish. The only wet I used on this stuff is when I squirt the area to fold the holster and at the end when I clean it with Lexol and water. Dries hard. Very Hard. I ordered some leather and it was beautiful. But very, very soft and supple. My usual procedure did not work the same. They were not stiff enough for a SASS shooter. Especially the speed demons and my reverse sewn holsters. So I turned to the gang. And discovered a bunch bake their holsters.

I ordered from the same guy the other day. He promised stiffer and dry (somewhat) leather. Should be here today.

This ain't soft.

Red Cent, hopefully the new batch of leather will be better. Thanks for starting this discussion since it has helped me understand that differences in the outcome from different leather, doesn't always mean that I messed up, even if the leather is from the same source. I know I have so many things to learn, but that is why I joined this great forum.

[JLSleather]

Yeah, sad that it's such a chore to get consistent quality in leather these days. Shouldn't be that difficult. "A" grade should be "A" grade (well, really).

Some variation in hides is to be expected, but that's WHY leather is graded. If I order a "B", then next time I order a "B" I should get basically the same thing. A scratch in a different spot, or a wrinkle where the last one wasn't .. fine. But one hide that firms up just fine, then a hide that drapes over the edge of the table like a cloth and covered in fat wrinkles? And they're BOTH "B"? Uhm, no.

I've said before, I don't mind PAYING premium as long as I'm GETTING premium. But price difference isn't THAT severe (a couple exceptions). Seriously, if a good-looking, quality hide is $8/ft, and the one I DON'T want is $6/ft, what's the point of "saving" money? Not worth it to me to cut around bad spots, weak points, and scars just to 'save' $50 (which, you won't anyway, since throwing out the bad spots increases the price of the usable leather anyway).

I don't go to HO and buy 20 sides, because I don't want to have to control the humidity and keep it from drying out before I get to use it.

[BDAZ]

I wet form most of my products and have drying racks set up in the AZ sun. Black items will reach a surface temperature of over 145F and natural around 130. 2-3 hours and the products are completely dry and rigid. I have never had a failure. Glue sets in a hurry as well.

I use drum dyed veg tanned leather for production which yields consistency, a good finish and saves time. Well worth the extra cost.

Cya!

Bob

[Marvolo]

Have you ever thought about impregnating the leather with wax. I have never used it on a sheath or holster but it works great for pouches.

Have you ever thought about impregnating the leather with wax. I have never used it on a sheath or holster but it works great for pouches.

[Red Cent]

Marvolo, you want to dry it out after finishing the product. BDAZ has a ready made oven and big enough for his stuff . I would not think the wax would help the leather to become very stiff.

The reason for the post was that each of us may be living in different worlds for leather. However, we discuss the manipulation of leather as if there isn't any difference in the leather each of us use. And there is a difference. A big difference. When I started making holsters, the leather burnished beautifully, after a quick dunk in water and left to dry, they became super stiff. Like rawhide, almost.

Then I obtained some very beautiful leather that was mark or scar free. But it was too soft and supple. It would not burnish well and would not become stiff with my regular procedure. So I asked the question. And I discovered that a lot bake their leather to acquire the stiffness needed. Different worlds or knowledge of how "their" leather reacted to burnishing and stiffening.

Because of the reasons (leather grading) stated before, I believe I can get results from cheap, dry leather that is, hopefully, scar and hole free.