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There is a problem with the resolene coat on my folio. It was mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Following the directions, it was applied with a clipped wool applicator, one pass. It appeared to be uniform, but now that it has dried there are streaks across the entire piece. It was applied over fiebings pro dye, that was dried and then buffed. The dye was applied over olive oil. There was no color transfer from from the dye, if that matters. The resolene coat has been buffed and buffed and it still is streaked. Should another coat be applied? Try to strip it off? If strip it off, would the dye prep (everclear 20%, acetone 30%, distilled water 50%) be the solution of choice? Or straight denatured alcohol, acetone, ??? Have the wrong products been used together? Can it be saved?

Moving forward, should it only be applied via spray gun? Or should it just not be used at all? If not what would you suggest for a finish coat?

Thank you all for your help and advice that has been gleaned from this site. I hope someone has a fix or it will be me in a fix. Thanks again. grg

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I would try another coat and see what happens. I've been useing resolene for over 30 years, and all i have ever used to put it on with is a sponge. You do need to squeese the sponge out before you use and all i ever use is regular tap water. Some folks seem to want to over compclate things IMO.

If you use a spray gun / air brush i would think your going to have to clean it after ever use or it will gum up.

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Thank you so much for the information.

Put another coat on, but can still see the streaks, although they aren't as apparent because it seems to be darkening it. Maybe being a bit impatient also. Was going to ask if you thought another coat will help or just add more streaks, but waiting might be the answer also.

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This time of year it's generally dry in a few minutes. I may wait 15 or 20 minutes in the winter because it's cold.

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You could try cutting (mixing) with a little more water. Also use very very light coats. Multiple light coats is better than one or two thick coats. Sometimes I have this problem, sometimes I don't. I don't use resolene to finish any product anymore because of that problem. Good luck!

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In my experience, Resolene or any of the acrylic top coats don't work well when applied with a dauber or sponge. If my project is a small strap where I can apply the acrylic in a single pass and cover the entire piece, then it works OK. Larger projects, not so well. The acrylic seems to disolve the Fiebings Oil dye to a degree and the streaks are caused by that. While I must admit I don't use Resolene much anymore, I use other acrylic products like Angelus Satin Sheen, Mop & Glo, to name a few. These are all acrylic products and will have the same issues when applying with anything that touches the surface of the leather. In my opinion, the only predictable and satisfactory way to apply this type of top coat is by spraying. Most of my work is gun leather, holsters and gun belts, and these are what I would call small items as compared to saddle bags, brief cases, and such. For my projects an airbrush fills the bill perfectly for acrylic top coats as well as dying with Pro Oil dye and streaks are never an issue.

When using spray guns with acrylic, special cleaning is required otherwise the build-up of dryed acrylic will clog the tip. While the product is mostly water soluable, water only will not do a satisfactory job, even with detailed cleaning. There always seems to be a residual of dryed acrylic left in the gun unless one uses a mixture of vinegar, water and a general purpose household cleaner. This will cut the acrylic and leave your gun ready for use the next time you need it. I mix about 1/2 cup vinegar to 1/2 hag of tap water, and about 1/4 cup of Spic & Span liquid household cleaner. I use the Spic & Span because that what the Wife buys. Disassemble the gun and soak the parts for a few minutes in this solution, clean with a small brush, rinse well with tap water, blow dry and re-assemble.

I use the same spray guns when dying with Pro Oil and Denatured Alcohol cleans up everything nicely when I'm done. I hope this helps.

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I've learned how to work with it and what to expect once it dries. It sure does pick up some dye..so just working with it and trying different applications was what helped me. I really like how it proctects the product and up to now I can't seem to find another finisher that can do the same. I've been looking for the same protection but with a lower sheen.

BigJake... how does that angleus satin sheen work for you...? how does it held up to water?

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I have good results spraying several light coats 50/50 water/resolene with airbrush, clean up with denatured alcohol, between coats I let the airbrush soak in a cup of denatured alcohol. no clogging. wish it had a lower sheen.

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I've learned how to work with it and what to expect once it dries. It sure does pick up some dye..so just working with it and trying different applications was what helped me. I really like how it proctects the product and up to now I can't seem to find another finisher that can do the same. I've been looking for the same protection but with a lower sheen.

BigJake... how does that angleus satin sheen work for you...? how does it held up to water?

The Angelus Satin Sheen holds up as well as Resolene as both are water resistant and not water proof. Having said that, keep in mind that my leatherwork efforts are confined to cowboy gun leather and as such are not generally exposed to inclement weather. Saddle bags, motorcycle bags, and items that would be exposed to rain and such.......I have no knowledge of.

As for the gloss, the Angelus Satin Sheen is just that within limits and the number of coats applied. Spraying versus sponge application will result in a higher gloss as a general rule in my experience. Most of my cowboy holsters have a flap over the top of the belt and extends down to the bottom of the holster. The back-side of this flap gets three coats of spray applied Satin Sheen for added protection from sweat from the leg of the wearer. Satin Sheen also makes a fine resist when using antique paste.

Let me add that when applying acrylic products using spray equipment, proper cleaning is essential. By that I mean, dis-assemble the gun and clean all the parts in the fluid path otherwise clogging will soon become an issue for you. The vinegar and household cleaner mixture will disolve the hardened acrylic if your gun does become clogged and I have not found that denatured alcohol will do that. In my experience, denatured alcohol works about as well as tap water.

I have a supply of automotive paint strainers used for automotive paint, not the kind you might get from Home Depot. All my acrylic topcoats are strained when it goes my paint gun cup, for the simple reason that any clumps or contaniments in the acrylic will clog the gun tip. I mix my Satin Sheen and keep the 50/50 mixture in a large jar so it's ready for use. Sometimes, clumps will occur in the mix or some of the dried material from the mouth of the jar will somehow get in the mix. As I said, I strain it everytime. Then there is the subject of spray guns which is a long discussion in itself, best left for another time.

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Blue Duck, Several options are at your disposal. I've used Resolene mixed w/tap water, same as dirtclod. I use a 10 cent brush from wal-mart to put it on...2 coates. Occasionally there may be a streak or two, but it disappears with the final application of Kiwi nuetral shoe polish...kinda like a "spit shine" but it is buffed out with a brush......a extra protectant is all.

Years ago, when the postman had no vehicles, unlike today, they were issued a large leather bag to carry the mail. It was protected by something called "bag-kote". Feibings. Hence...the name...bag-kote. If it is water-proof or water resistant...I don't know, but those bags seemed to last an eternity. I use it occasionally on holsters I know may see some time in the elements...customers seem happy with it...as same w/the resolene. I hope it works out and the piece is saved. Semper-fi Mike

Edited by marine mp

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