Gonnate Report post Posted May 29, 2014 Hello, First time of posting here for ages, but when last I visited I was always impressed by how helpful this group was! I'm making a leather case for my small medieval harp, to be carried backpack style. I realise veg-tanned leather is unlikely to be waterproof, but aim to make it at least shower resistant. I'm planning on normal style seams rathet than butt-jointed edges, for more strength, but can't decide whether it's better to turn the seam inwards or outwards to be more weatherproof. Inwards makes more of a channel for water to seep in if my stitching isn't tight, outwards leaves the edge showing, which may be more water-absorbent. Any advice welcome, please. I'll also welcome comments on favourite proofings/dressings which aren't horribly greasy, as it'll be worn when I have modern clothes too, while retaining a natural sort of look suitable for the historical appearance. Thanks, Richard. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted May 29, 2014 I would say outward with a resolene finish...that's probably how I would do it. Not sure if that's best but....just my .02 cents. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted May 29, 2014 Burnish smooth before any finish Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gonnate Report post Posted May 29, 2014 Thanks to both for your quick replies; this sort of confirms what I thought, which is always cheering! I was wondering whether it would be better still, or just excessive, to add a thin leather strip right over the edges, stitched down each side parallel to the seam stitches. I'm sure there's a proper name for this, but you'll know what I mean :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evo160K Report post Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Hi Gonnate , Tossing this out for what it's worth, may spark an idea. When we put a leather cover on a Harley seat, we lap the pieces like roofing shingles, so the water runs across the seam rather than catching in the seam. Btw we put a good quality poly film between the leather and the padding. On raingear seams I use Atsko rain-guard silicone spray. They've been doing it since 1933, I like it. Edited June 9, 2014 by Evo160K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gonnate Report post Posted June 9, 2014 Thanks, I'll think on possibilities of adapting this idea. A hidden poly film might indeed help.The lapping idea's one I'd vaguely wondered about too, and while a harp's a rather different shape from a Harley saddle, with more planes meeting at points... unless you have very strange shaped saddles :-) ... there are possibilities here too, I think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramrod Report post Posted June 9, 2014 I was wondering whether it would be better still, or just excessive, to add a thin leather strip right over the edges, stitched down each side parallel to the seam stitches. i think you've answered your own question. seriously, i was going to mention this, only on the inside.....if it were possible. i'm not sure what your seam configuration is. but, i'd say a strip over your seams would do the trick.......and, as you brits say, bob's yer uncle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gonnate Report post Posted June 10, 2014 That's interesting - a strip on the inside? Would the water not creep into the outside seam then wriggle its way past the inside strip too once it was there? Or am I misunderstanding your suggestion? I've now got several possible answers - I like this group! :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Cook Report post Posted June 15, 2014 I think he means a strip on the outside covering the edge, like a wrap. Use glue. They use Barge to glue shoe soles on. I have used the stuff to glue my wife's sandals back together, still holding. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites