Members Rocket6R Posted July 5, 2014 Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) Guys and gals, I’m trying to get the best outcome I can on my holster and will use the USMC black dye. My question is do I dye before putting neatsfoot oil on the holster or do I put the neatsfoot oil on and then the dye? Thanks, Paul Edited July 5, 2014 by Rocket6R Quote
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted July 5, 2014 Ambassador Report Posted July 5, 2014 Apply Neatsfoot oil, Let dry overnight, then APPLY FIEBINGS PRO OIL BLACK DYE... Quote
Members Rocket6R Posted July 5, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 Apply Neatsfoot oil, Let dry overnight, then APPLY FIEBINGS PRO OIL BLACK DYE... Again, I'm using Fiebing's USMC black dye. Quote
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted July 5, 2014 Ambassador Report Posted July 5, 2014 Some folks have Problems with the USMC Black dye.....I only use the OIL dye.... Quote
Members DoubleC Posted July 5, 2014 Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 I dyed a bridle with USMC black several times and got brown every time when I looked in the natural light. I would recommend you don't suffer this frustration like Luke recommended. Cheryl Quote
Chief31794 Posted July 5, 2014 Report Posted July 5, 2014 I use USMC Black a lot, I have the Pro Oil Black as well but I can't really tell a difference. With the browns and tans, I get much better results with Pro Oil, but I haven't had any problems what so ever with USMC Black. I always dye first then let it dry over night, then buff it a lot then apply a couple of coats of Pure Neatsfoot Oil, then let it dry overnight again then apply a good finish. I really like the Mop&Glo/Water (50/50) finish on this dye. Chief Quote
Troy I Posted July 5, 2014 Report Posted July 5, 2014 I do the same as chief. ..dye...let dry...buff...oil...let dry...top coat...let dry...buff....Montana Pitch Blend. ..let dry...buff... Quote
Members Mudruck Posted July 5, 2014 Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 I use USMC Black a lot, I have the Pro Oil Black as well but I can't really tell a difference. With the browns and tans, I get much better results with Pro Oil, but I haven't had any problems what so ever with USMC Black. I always dye first then let it dry over night, then buff it a lot then apply a couple of coats of Pure Neatsfoot Oil, then let it dry overnight again then apply a good finish. I really like the Mop&Glo/Water (50/50) finish on this dye. Chief This is the same method I use as well. Be sure to get a good application of the dye as well. It may take multiple coats to get full penetration of the dye. Quote
Members Dwight Posted July 5, 2014 Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 On the very few occasions I use USMC black, . . . I dip dye it, . . . and it eliminates the browns, . . . streakiness, . . . and the multiple coats. Other than it being a pain to buff out, . . . it is indeed BLACK, . . . and will give a good penetration for leather that has to hold up to some serious working. Again, . . . I don't like to use it, . . . but it does work, . . . kind of like a snow shovel, ya' know? May God bless, Dwight Quote
Members camano ridge Posted July 5, 2014 Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) As above, when using USMC black you need to buff the heck out of it. If you do not you will get rum off. Some people oil first as they believe it helps with the dye. I have found oiling after dying and buffing works better for me. It seems to help make the black blacker (again just my perception) and it puts nutrients back into the leather that tends to get dried out abit from the dying proscess. Edited July 5, 2014 by camano ridge Quote
Members Mudruck Posted July 5, 2014 Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 As above, when using USMC black you need to buff the heck out of it. If you do not you will get rum off. Some people oil first as they believe it helps with the dye. I have found oiling after dying and buffing works better for me. It seems to help make the black blacker (again just my perception) and it puts nutrients back into the leather that tends to get dried out abit from the dying proscess. Exactly Camano, Once I have appiled the USMC Black and let it dry overnight, I apply a nice heavy application of neatsfoot and let that sit overnight and then buff the everlovin' heck out of it and it looks great. A lot of more of surface dye will come off with the buffing after the oil, but the color remains nice and black. Quote
Members Rocket6R Posted July 5, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 Thanks everyone with the responses. I just applied 70% alcohol to deglaze the holster and rubbed the alcohol in with a cotton rag. While the holster was still damp I applied a heavy coat of USMC black to the holster using daubers. I'll let it sit for a few hours and then try buffing it and then apply another coat of USMC black. I do agree that there's sort of a brown hue to it. Once I'm satisfied with the black finish I'll put a light coat of neatsfoot oil on it then let it sit overnight. I'll then apply 2-3 coats of air brushed Fiebing's Leather Sheen and the final coat will be Kiwi's neutral shoe polish. Actually before I spray the finish on I'll take care of the edges. I'll keep the thread updated with how the black coats turn out. I think my next holster I'll use the Pro Finish as suggested. Thanks again, Paul Quote
Members Troy Burch Posted July 5, 2014 Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 I did a black belt once and in the right light it had a brown hue. An old timer told me to dye it blue first then black and I wouldn't have that problem anymore. Might be worth a try at least on a piece of scrap. Quote
Members Rocket6R Posted July 5, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) I let the USMC black dye dry for about three hours. I then rubbed the holster with a wool rag. The result was awesome. The dye was even and uniform throughout. I then used a dauber and applied a light coat of neatsfoot oil on it. For whatever reason the dauber pulled up a small amount of the dye in an isolated area about the size of a quarter when I applied the neatsfoot. I can see brown leather now in that spot. I'll let the neatsfoot soak in and then try to re-apply the USMC black dye to that area. I hope it works. I only applied one coat of dye since the first coat was so good. Edited July 5, 2014 by Rocket6R Quote
Northmount Posted July 6, 2014 Report Posted July 6, 2014 I'd give it another coat of dye, let dry overnight, the buff it well. You may or may not need to oil it slightly afterwards. Depends on how heavy the oiling was. Tom Quote
Members Rocket6R Posted July 6, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 6, 2014 I applied a second coat of USMC black dye yesterday to try and cover the brown leather spot that was showing through. I put a second coat on the entire leather holster. I let the dye dry and buffed the holster. It worked out very well. The dye is back to being uniform and has 100% complete coverage. This afternoon I'll put on Fiebing's leather sheen and top it off with Kiwi neutral shoe polish. Quote
Members camano ridge Posted July 6, 2014 Members Report Posted July 6, 2014 You forgot the final and most important step, take a picture and post it here. Quote
Members Rocket6R Posted July 6, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 6, 2014 You forgot the final and most important step, take a picture and post it here. Will do! I should be finished within a few hours and then will posts pics either tonight or tomorrow. Quote
Members Rocket6R Posted July 6, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 6, 2014 (edited) Here it is all finished! Sorry about the poor pics. It's about the best I can do from my phone.Paul Edited July 6, 2014 by Rocket6R Quote
Members DoubleC Posted July 6, 2014 Members Report Posted July 6, 2014 Really nice job Paul. Cheryl Quote
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