Need Advice On Buying A New Knife.

[Bobbin]

2 hours ago, billybopp said:

Rotary knives work very well for really stretchy leathers such as deer, elk, lamb, etc.   Also good for thin leathers, although other knives do OK on thin as well.

That makes sense. Perhaps I'll hold off on a rotary for now then until I find I use a lot of stretchy/thin leathers that the other's don't handle well. Probably goatskin & linings for me.

2 hours ago, jfdavis58 said:

Perhaps, instead of a core set, you should spend some time researching knife steels.  And then settle on one knife learning to use it for everything.  Jumping from tool to tool is an ineffective way to spend your money or improve your skill-set.  One mans opinion.

Fair enough. I do respect your opinion. It's funny, because I thought I was being minimal by looking for a core of "only" 3 knives  I have spent time researching steels for cutting. I do have a bit of a different philosophy though. I'm doing this because I like learning, and because I think it's fun. Part of learning for me is trying things. Even if I find a knife totally useless, that's valuable learning for me for a pretty small price (if I trashed the knife). And an even smaller price of learning if I sell it to a forum member here. This helps me learn about different types of steel, too. In practice rather than just reading about it.

I do agree that to improve my skill set in any single knife, I'll need to spend a lot of hours of practice.

1 hour ago, Art said:

There are two methods:

Buy a knife when you need a knife, you will have fewer very used knives.

Buy a knife when you see a knife, you are a collector (join the club), you use the same knives you use if you follow method one, but if you get one dull or break or drop it, oh do you have backup.

Or.........Buy a Utility knife and Irwin Bi-Metal (Blue) blades and a couple of scalpel handles and some blades from ebay, then when you really need something different, go for it.

The only thing that is really good about a head/round knife is seeing the cutting line.

Art

 

Sounds like great advice. I don't expect I'll become a collector (yet). Thanks for the tip on the utility knife and blades. I actually have one but did not know about the Bi-Metal (Blue) blades. This is another attractive option for me as well, really sidestepping the sharpening issue. The blades are so cheap I can just replace as needed.

It sounds like all I really "need" is some sort of detail knife--either a utility knife. + maybe scalpels, or something like the Blanchard w/ custom blade above. I would then be doing a lot of pull cuts along a pattern, corner template, or ruler--probably the majority of what I'll be doing.

I feel like the utility knives/scalpels are a no brainer. Even if I don't end up using them much for leather, I still have general purpose knives for many other uses. I think I'll pick some of these up, even if I do opt for a Blanchard detail knife.

The head/round knife does seem more optional for now, unless I wanted to do a lot of curvy push cuts along a line without a guide.

I'll still need a skiving knife for thinning edges, bringing it to a core set of 2 to start.

[MADMAX22]

If your doing long straight runs unguided a round/head knife IMHO is the way to go. I have a few and a couple are larger (5-7") and a couple are pretty small (3"). The larger ones I use for straight longer runs and skivving edges. The smaller and inbetween size I do the finer detail turns and what not. If I was doing filigree I would have some scalpel type knives. 

The thing with the head knives are being able to sharpen them properly or however works for you. I like the fact that I can cut out a bunch of stuff, flip to the other side cut out a bunch more stuff, then strop it and be ready to go again. 

Personally I rarely cut along a straight edge and thus the box cutter type blades give me issues with wanting to wander while I cut. I personally can keep the head knife on a marked line pretty easily. 

[Bobbin]

So in addition to utility blades, which I already use, I'll get a variety of scalpels. This is an inexpensive way to try many different blade shapes to see what works best in different situations. Perhaps from there, I can get a custom knife in the shape I like, if I want something less bendy or just better looking for photographs

I'm looking at Swann Morton scalpels. I think most folks here use the surgical ones with 10A, 11, 12, etc blades.

They also have ACM handles & blades, which are thicker and less bendy. This is their craft blade line. I saw a couple video reviews (review one, review two) and these seem like these are almost identical to x-acto handles & blades.

And they have some Heavy Duty Craft options--the SM handles & blades. It looks like some are selling them as leather craft knives. I imagine these are closer to utility blades, but with more blade shape options.

Question #1 Anyone familiar with these Swann Morton craft blades? In the US, Cincinnati Surgical / CN Arts & Crafts has them for good prices, including kits. The ACM kit has one of everything, which would be a nice introduction.

Question #2 is for those who use a curved detail knife. I see some of you (like @Art) use this as an alternate to a clicker knife (for example the Knipschield curved detail knife). Can you comment on why you like this knife, pros & cons? I imagine the curved shape allows for following patterns with curves & straight edges, and possibly allows one to see better under the blade when pulling. I have a Henckels kitchen knife that looks very similar and it gets used daily. I figure, a nice, traditional looking knife like this can always be put on kitchen duty if it doesn't turn out to be a favorite for leather work.

[Art]

I use scalpels a lot, I have so many knives that I am firmly in the collector category.  That being said, I'll just go by the knives out on the bench or within easy grasp.  I have two Swann Morton #3 retractable holders (they have newer ones now that I don't like as much) with 10A and 11 blades, these are used a lot for smaller trimming and even some cutout.  I also have a 22 blade, which is just a big 10, with a bigger #4 handle.  Of course, sometimes the 22 doesn't hack it and I use #60 and even a PM40 which is kind of a honking big 10.  I think the #60 uses a #8 handle and the PM40 has a handle unique to it.  These pretty much cover most of the cutting, and the blades are replaceable and fairly inexpensive.  The difference in Swann Morton blades and Indian etc. blades is that the SM blades stay sharper longer.  Just my experience.  Blades can be resharpened and stropped, to what I might call varying degrees of success.  Get a Needle Holder (suture needle holder) to hold blades when changing them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008F6GZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While these are great for changing blades, they are a little better than ok for holding sutures, but then again, so are needle nose pliers.

You can get pretty deep in scalpels for less than $100 which is pretty economical by a long shot, and you can try out some of the exotic blade designs on the cheap.

On top is big daddy, a PM 40 Swann Morton handle and blade.

Next down is Swann Morton #60 with a #8 Handle.

Third from Top is a #24 blade on an after market #4 Handle.  These big handles are cheap and feel good in the hand.  You can also find them in #3.

Next down is a Swann Morton retractable #3 sporting a #11 blade.  The newer models are a little clunkier and feel cheaper but still work fine.

Last down, a bare #3 handle from all over eBay with varying quality, this is NOT a Swann Morton but still works fine.

On the right are a pair of Mayo Hegar Straight Needle Holders great for changing blades.  Grab blades by the spine with the edge away from you.

On the left is a Swann Morton Retractable Craft Knife.  In my opinion, stiffer but not as sharp, not nearly as sharp as a SM scalpel.  The handle is not well cast and kind of clunky.

Quarter for size comparison.

 

Art

[Art]

Knives, not the scalpel kind.

As I have said, there are a few knives I have on or near the bench.

So, the knife on the left and the one at the bottom are Bob Dozier, Arkansas.  Obviously these get used a lot, because they cut so damned well and fit me perfectly.  I have another Dozier that son uses and for all intents and purposes is his.  He could of had whatever knife I had, but he picked Dozier.  

The two knives at the top are Bill Buchman knives on a pattern of the two knives used by Verlane Desgrange.  You had to mention that Verlane told you to go to Bill to get him to make one or both for you.  These are the 2 perfect head knives, one on board and the little one off board; they are meant to be palmed.  Unfortunately, both Verlane and Bill have passed, they were great folks.  Bill liked to talk with me as I always called him when he was cutting the grass.  A lot of what I know about leatherwork I learned from Verlane.

The next knife is a Curved Detail (read clicker) knife that Terry Knipschield makes.  I use this a lot on thicker leather and I'm happy with it.

The next is a changeable blade clicker knife of the more conventional design.  This gets used a lot for patterning thinner leathers.  The blue handle one is better for me than the wooden handle one, I have both, I use the blue one, different strokes.

The next knife is not the only skiving knife I own, it is practically the only one I use.  It is a Robert Beard model and it just works perfectly.  This is a right hand, I have both right and left because I am quite ambidextrous with tools.  If you can get Bob to make one of these for you, more power to you.  Once you go Black, you'll never go back!  I have a Knipschield skiver that works great also, but it is much heavier than the BB knife so  it doesn't get used much.

 

This is a Terry Knipschield Bevel Point Utility type knife which I have two of.  I misplaced one and got so frustrated, I bought another.  Terry got a new one to me quickly, but before it arrived, yep, found it.  These can be used for pretty much anything and on my bench they do.  These come wickedly sharp and stay that way depending on use.  I've never had the opportunity to use Terry's head knives so I can't opine on them, but his smaller knives are just fantastic.  When I say these come sharp, please keep a little crazy glue or NewSkin and Bandaids handy.

Art

[Bobbin]

Thanks @Art, that was extremely helpful to get a sense of proportion and use. For example the curved detail knife is so much bigger than the clicker knife and I can see how it would be for thicker leathers. I don't know what it is, but there is an irresistible draw to some of these beautiful knives.

[Art]

Since the first napped knife in the stone age, knives have been remarkable for their simplicity, usefulness, and of course elegance.  Who wouldn't want one or more of them, especially if you can put them to good use.

Art