Best Glue For Leather On Leather?

[greaser13]

StrigaMort is suede bad to use with knives? They will also have sheathes on the blades as well, its mainly for appearance. But is there another type of leather you recommend?

[rawr66]

I'm trying to understand what you're saying. So you want to line the oil tanned leather with suede? With the grain (smooth) side facing outward and the suede glued to the rough side? You shouldn't have a problem once it's glued together.

[greaser13]

Yep that's was I was asking. Thank you for your help rawr66!

[dirtclod]

You better try glueing on some scrap first, because i never had any luck glueing anything to a oiled piece of leather like what you have.

Edited August 19, 2014 by dirtclod

[dirtclod]

Careful which kind of leather you use around knife blades, especially if they'll be left there long.

I just finished testing the Weldwood Gel formula. Absolutely excellent product. Not quite as strong as the Original formula, but still very good.

Tip of the day! Put your cement in one of those diner table condiment bottles. Someone recommended that to me the other day. Wish I had tried that from the beginning. Really. Go to the dollar store and try it.

Save your money and get a small plastic Coke bottle, drill a hole in the cap and put your glue in that. Squeeze out some glue on trimed piece of sheep skin to spread your glue then stick the sheep skin back on the top to seal it works great. I've used a Coke bottle for the last 20 years

[Dwight]

There is always a "first time" for everything, . . . but I've never had much trouble with contact cement in cementing leather together. When I do, I simply add another light coat to the side that is causing difficulty.

BUT, . . . I only use the contact cement to hold it while I'm manipulating it, . . . cutting it, . . . sanding it, . . . etc. The stitches and/or rivets are what I rely on to hold it together.

Try a couple of pieces of scrap, . . . that will answer your question.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Oldtoolsniper]

Oil resists glue. Test what you are doing first. Contact cement won't stick to oily surfaces. When making a countertop the adhesive of choice is red can weld bond contact cement. Oil on the substrate means you get to make a new countertop because the glue WILL fail. Test it, test it, test it!

[Turn n Burn]

I have been using Lepage low odour as i do most of my work when my son goes to bed and don't want the fumes in the house. I had some weldbond and used it when i ran out of Lepage and don't really like it takes to long and cracks sounding when flexed seems to hold but wouldn't want a customer hearing a piece cracking. Havnt seen weld wood red in Canada will keep my eye out for it.

[silverwingit]

I use Weldwood all the time for vegtan and chrome tan with mineral spirits for thinner ( a bit more friendly than acetone, IMO).

In my experience using Weldwood with chrome tan is much the same as it is with vegtan. You need to abrade the surfaces where you will apply the glue, else it will not hold well, just peeling off if the layers of leather when the are pulled apart. [This can be useful at times where the strength of hold isn't paramount. NB: Weldwood can also be rubbed off in areas of "overshoot" with a finger or an eraser if it isn't allowed to dry completely.]

I've not had Weldwood dissolve or peel the finish off of a chrome tan leather, but I have only used a couple dozen different chrome tan leathers. I'd recommend it for chrome tan without hesitation, just as I would with vegtan. Weldwood contact adhesive is inexpensive, readily available, easily and safely thinned and very effective for use with all the types of leather I've encountered.

Works for me!

Michelle

[silverwingit]

Greaser13 -

A contact-adhesive readiness test I learned from one of Chuck Burrows DVDs (Wild Rose Trading Company) is to look to see whether your coat of CA is shiny when set (both side to be cemented). If not, apply another coat and repeat. Some leathers absorb CA more than others and a uniform layer of adhesive on both surfaces to be joined is necessary to promote a successful, durable bond.

After that, you should still plan on stitching the pigskin lining to the primary leather. Saddle and chap makers use oil-tanned leather all the time with no special treatment other than a good foundation of contact adhesive.

Michelle