Cleaning Leather

[Red Cent]

Probably need some help. I do a bunch of holsters using natural leather. No dye. I cut, sand, glue and stitch. Then wet form. At times I get a grayish look in some small areas. I use Fieblings NF Oil.

I read somewhere here that some use a very toxic liquid to clean leather. Does this remove the gray/dirty looking area?

[camano ridge]

Red, not sure what toxic liquid you are refering to. You might try Oxalic acid. You can find it at Home Depot etc. You can find it labled Oxalic acid or Barkeepers Friend. It is in crystal form mixed with water. Apply to the area it will basicaly bleach it, don't leave it on to long you can get a pinkish look. No guarantee it will work for your problem but it may.

[Colt Hammerless]

Possibly mineralization in the water. Are you using tap water? I had a problem of occasionally getting dark areas in light colored holsters after wet forming. Changed to distilled water for wet forming, and the problem went away. I even use it to thin my acrylic finish just to be on the safe side.

Paul

[Red Cent]

Thanks Camano. "...don't leave it on too long you can get a pinkish look." May I pin you down on time. Is it a rinse or do you wipe it on with a cloth? Do you rinse it off?

Colt, that may be a problem. I have very good water and it is well water. No iron or sulphur taste at all.

Something has to be interacting with something. I have some good space and most of the handling is done over fresh roll paper. And this is not stain from anything nor is it oil from the hands. The area or areas are about the size of a nickel or smaller. Very slight and not a dense spot. I will take some pictures.

Colt, do you dedicate a portion of the distilled water to each piece?

[Northmount]

I don't soak the leather in the solution, just wipe it on, get even coverage over the whole surface first, then if need be add more to any spots that you see haven't bleached enough. A little gentle scrubbing brings fresh acid to the surface to help with the tougher spots if any.

Quick rinse after to stop further action. Thin leather will probably be saturated fairly quickly, heavier leather won't be saturated as easily and doesn't need to be. Rinse is just quick, not to soak the hide.

If you are uncomfortable with this, try some scraps first to see how it behaves. To get some dark spots, just rub newspaper on it. I've learned to keep newspaper away from leather. Used to lay the leather on a newspaper to dye or apply finish. Gets the leather dirty!

Tom

[Red Cent]

Been reading about the stuff. The general sites doesn't mention leather. Apparently works well with wood.

Thanks northmount.

[Colt Hammerless]

I just poor some water out of the jug into a pan when I'm about to wet the leather. After that I toss it.

[camano ridge]

Red I can't really giv you a time frame it depends on the individual leather your concentration etc. Like Northmount said try it on some scrap to get a feel for it. It is mot originally made for leather it is a cleanser. when you read the label it will menion all types of surfaces., and yes it is used for bleaching wood and works for leather as well. As Northmount mentioned just a quick water rinse is all I do. I do reccomend wearing gloves the label says prolonged skin contact can cause skin irritation, remember your skin is untanned leather

Edited July 18, 2014 by camano ridge

[Northmount]

There are several threads here on bleaching leather using oxalic acid, lemon juice and possibly vinegar. Use about a teaspoon to a pint of water. Bleaches out dark spots from iron fillings too.

I have a book General Leathercraft by Raymond Cherry 4th ed. copyright 1955 that I used in the 60s that introduced me to it ... way back then.

Has been very handy some days!

Tom

[Red Cent]

I used some Bar Keeper's Friend last evening. I could not detect any bleaching. The stuff acted more like a cleaner and removed a spot or two. The label does not say anything about oxalic acid but says it contains citrus juice.

I cannot find any today so I guess I will call some of the chemical companies around here Monday. Tried Walmart, Lowes, Harris Teeter, and a local hardware store and a local hardwood/carpet store. Plenty of muriatic but -0- oxalic.

[billybopp]

I know Springfield carries oxalic acid, as does Sheridan if you can't find it locally.

[Red Cent]

Actually, there is an unlimited supply of this stuff. And it has a bunch of aliases.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=oxalic%20acid&sprefix=oxalic%2Caps%2C236&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aoxalic%20acid

[Troy Burch]

Is that the same stuff taxidermist use to bleach cow skull?

[camano ridge]

Red, I have a can of Barkeepers Friend on the back label toward the bottom where it says Caution: contains Oxalic Acid

[Red Cent]

Now I am embarrassed. Mine is the white plastic bottle. Has Bar Keepers Friend on the front and under it says COOKTOP CLEANER. Is that my problem?

[camano ridge]

Red here is what I have.

[Red Cent]

Thanks.

[Red Cent]

Ran some water on the holster to form it. Look real close at the spots. The band around the top was dyed yesterday morning. Edges were all dry. Nothing on my hands. Looks like I need to store up on distilled water.

PS: Dang, that belt loop looks bad from this direction. Gotta fix that.

[Red Cent]

Well, the Oxalic acid did not work. Lightened and cleaned up the rest of the holster but the spots/marks are still there. Rubbed a lemon piece on them and they are still there.

Bought some nitrile gloves and just might build something with un-dyed leather to see what happens. Probably will change a few things in my process also.
Later.