Going To Try Some New Leather

[Randyc]

I've just about used up my current supply of leather purchased from Weaver. I've been using 6/7 oz. for my pocket holsters and belt slide holsters for lighter weight pistols. I've been using 8/9 oz. for my tunnel/loop belt holsters and plan to design a IWB holster next.

I planning to purchase Wicket and Craig or Herman Oak sides or sholders.

Of these two brands, which is easer to mold and bone with the best results?

What grade of leather should I purchase?

I don't mind purchasing "Grade A" if that grade will be necessary to achieve the desired effects.

Thanks Guys,

Randy

[paris3200]

I think you would be happy with either Wicket and Craig or Herman Oaks. From what I can tell they are comparable when it comes to molding. Superiority will come down to the particular tanning batch and the time of year.

[ArtS]

Isn't what Weavers sells Herman Oak Leather?

I love Wicket & Craig also Siegels.

Art

[Randyc]

Isn't what Weavers sells Herman Oak Leather?

I love Wicket & Craig also Siegels.

Art

I believe Weaver does carry Herman Oak, but I'm pretty sure for the price I paid, it wasn't Herman Oak.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I like the Hermann Oak better in the lighter weight cuts, and the W&C for the heavier weight. I use W&C 8 oz. premium grade that has been sanded, holstered, and pasted for my belt holsters (prepare for a little sticker shock if you go this route). For my ccw belts I use a top layer of 8.5 oz. premium that has been sanded pasted and plated, and for the inside layer I use 6 oz. with the same treatments. It's expensive to do things this way, but it yields the best results for me. For my IWB holsters I use Hermann Oak in multiple thicknesses and finishes, depending on what I want to do.

The time and trouble you save by working with either of these tannery's hides will be more than worth the difference in cost. Make sure you don't use as much solution when you case either of these hides, as they won't take nearly as much water to get the same results as what you were using on your previous hides.

[Shorts]

I use HO and I enjoy working with it. It finishes nicely and molds very well. I have yet to try W&C so I cannot compare it to HO.

[RawhideLeather]

My two cents. I bought a large order direct from Hermann Oak a while back and am very unhappy with it. I posted my experience with it here on the forum. I am going to use Wickett & Craig from now on.

[K-Man]

I've used both W&C and H.O. The W.C. does not have the same firmness as the H.O., unless you order it that way from W.C. IMO, you want that firmness if you're making holsters and such. I've ordered approximately $30k worth of leather direct from H.O. in the last 3 1/2 years. I've sent back less than $300 worth. I've had no problems cutting or molding it. I make holsters primarily, and related accessories. The W.C. does better for tooling than the H.O. IMO.

Edited November 6, 2008 by K-Man

[HarryB]

Have used W&C for years. Very satisfied with the leather and the service. I almost allways order skirting and have it split to whatever thickness I want. Their shoulders and "craftsman" sides are a dryer tannage and about the same tannage as Hermann Oaks. Both tanneries offer excellent sides, I just prefer the skirting tannage from W&C. Probably for the molding, I would use the dryer tannage.

[Luke Hatley]

HELLO HR BROWN. NICE TO SEE YOU ON THE FOURM........

has my side of W & C came in yet?

[Randyc]

Hey guys, thanks for your comments. I went ahead and purchased a side of 6/7 oz. and 8/9 oz Hermann Oaks leather. One thing I discovered, Hermann Oaks is alot harder to cut then the leather I had been using from Weaver. I made another belt holster using the 8/9 oz. I'm fairly happy with the molding considering the weight of the leather. I'm sure the 6/7 oz. will mold a little easier. I'm still working on my casing technique with the new leather.

I got a few recommendations for new shears on the leather tools section of the forum. Do any of you holster makers have any recommendations for shears?

Thanks again, Randy

[HarryB]

Yes: DON'T USE SHEARS! I use a utility knife with a new, stropped blade and take three - four cuts to cut through heavier leather and I use a round knife for the rest. I know it takes a while to learn to use a round/head knife and it hurts your hand for a while but if you are going to do leather work, learn to use the proper tools. My ol' pappy always told me "don't use a tack hammer to drive a railroad spike" ! Also, some people complain about problems using a utility knife for getting a good, square cut. That is why you don't try to cut through 8/9 oz. leather with one cut. Take your time, hold the knife firmly and make several cuts. It will get easier and more accurate with a little practice.

[Shorts]

Preyty much what Harry said.

I don't use shears, I use a utility knife and make passes on my lines until the leather is cut. I do that for all my holster patterns.

On my belts, I use a strap cutter and those do get cut straight in one slice.

[Lobo]

Randy: For the finest in custom leather work, I agree with the admonition to use knives. However, since my production has grown (now doing 15 to 20 holsters per week), I have been looking for methods to speed up some of the processes. For cutting 8-9 oz. shoulders I am now using an electric sheet metal shear (auto body tool) with very good results (I can cut a dozen patterns in under an hour). I do not use this tool for any very close work, leaving that for the knives. But for straight cuts and modest curves it works just great. The tool does leave a slight "trail" on the underside of the surface being cut, so I lay out my patterns on the smooth side and cut with that side up. Greatly speeded up my production and saves me a lot of pain in my old grampa hands, wrists, elbows, shoulders (well, you get the idea). Lobo (Lobo Gun Leather, serious equipment for serious business).

Hey guys, thanks for your comments. I went ahead and purchased a side of 6/7 oz. and 8/9 oz Hermann Oaks leather. One thing I discovered, Hermann Oaks is alot harder to cut then the leather I had been using from Weaver. I made another belt holster using the 8/9 oz. I'm fairly happy with the molding considering the weight of the leather. I'm sure the 6/7 oz. will mold a little easier. I'm still working on my casing technique with the new leather.

I got a few recommendations for new shears on the leather tools section of the forum. Do any of you holster makers have any recommendations for shears?

Thanks again, Randy

[Randyc]

Yes: DON'T USE SHEARS! I use a utility knife with a new, stropped blade and take three - four cuts to cut through heavier leather and I use a round knife for the rest. I know it takes a while to learn to use a round/head knife and it hurts your hand for a while but if you are going to do leather work, learn to use the proper tools. My ol' pappy always told me "don't use a tack hammer to drive a railroad spike" ! Also, some people complain about problems using a utility knife for getting a good, square cut. That is why you don't try to cut through 8/9 oz. leather with one cut. Take your time, hold the knife firmly and make several cuts. It will get easier and more accurate with a little practice.

I actually like using a round knife and had no problems what so ever slicing through my previous 8/9oz. sides. I ran into problems cutting my new Hermann Oaks 8/9oz. side with my round knife. "That stuffs tough." I was able to to cut the Hermann Oaks with my old and close to worn out Fiskers Shears. Before learning to use a round knife, I've used and continue to use shears, utility knifes, and even my "Case" Stockman pocket knife to cut leather with good results. I still use a variety of tools depending on the project. I find that cutting a tight corner accurately is easier with a round knife, shears or round punches then with a utility knife.

Randy