I'm A Bit Rusty: Order Of Steps?

[Gwhite]

I used to do a little leatherwork when I was younger (about 30 years ago). It was mostly small stuff; belts, belt pouches, sheaths, holsters etc., made from cowhide. I want to make a belt for my daughter, and I can't remember what order to do stuff in. In addition, they've discontinued my favorite leather finish, and replaced it with stuff that is waterbased and appears for all the world to be Future floor polish...

I will be dying it black (Fiebing's oil based die), saddle stitching the buckle end, grooving & burnishing the edges. The leather is a bit stiff, and I'd like to soften it up a bit.

My recollection is that I want to do the basic construction (grooving, saddle stitching, edges, etc.) before dying the leather. Then apply the finish. I've used small amounts of neat's foot oil to soften leather, but I don't want any residual oil to soak back out & stain her clothes. I also have some Lexol, which I haven't used much in the past. I'm not sure how well either will work with the new finish formula.

I picked up a bottle of black edge finish as well, but I've never used that. Any tips on using the edge finish?

Is there a good reference on the sequence of steps for a project like this, or can soemone give me a quick refresher? What few leatherworking books I had are long gone or buried.

Is the new water based finish OK, or should I track down something different?

What's the best way to soften up the leather without risking staining fabric it comes in contact with? I don't want it all floppy, but it needs to be a lot more flexible than it is.

Thanks for the help! I'm inching up on retirement, and am looking forward to getting back into this.

[groovytech]

Check your local library, I'll bet they have books on Leather-craft. Ours had several. Also, use the search on this site. Type in the keyword and go.

[89cherokeelimited]

I used to do a little leatherwork when I was younger (about 30 years ago). It was mostly small stuff; belts, belt pouches, sheaths, holsters etc., made from cowhide. I want to make a belt for my daughter, and I can't remember what order to do stuff in. In addition, they've discontinued my favorite leather finish, and replaced it with stuff that is waterbased and appears for all the world to be Future floor polish...

I will be dying it black (Fiebing's oil based die), saddle stitching the buckle end, grooving & burnishing the edges. The leather is a bit stiff, and I'd like to soften it up a bit.

My recollection is that I want to do the basic construction (grooving, saddle stitching, edges, etc.) before dying the leather. Then apply the finish. I've used small amounts of neat's foot oil to soften leather, but I don't want any residual oil to soak back out & stain her clothes. I also have some Lexol, which I haven't used much in the past. I'm not sure how well either will work with the new finish formula.

I picked up a bottle of black edge finish as well, but I've never used that. Any tips on using the edge finish?

Is there a good reference on the sequence of steps for a project like this, or can soemone give me a quick refresher? What few leatherworking books I had are long gone or buried.

Is the new water based finish OK, or should I track down something different?

What's the best way to soften up the leather without risking staining fabric it comes in contact with? I don't want it all floppy, but it needs to be a lot more flexible than it is.

Thanks for the help! I'm inching up on retirement, and am looking forward to getting back into this.

I'm still new on this site and have only done a few things outside of belts.

But I started belts and holsters in 2012. So I have some experience but not as much as others on here.

So far i've had the best luck out of the acrylic finishes.

I've tried the water based and didn't like it at all. I've also used Fiebings pro leather dye and really like it a lot.

The oil dye was good but seemed like I had to wait 2-3 days for it to be completely dry.

So if you are not rushed on time at all the oil dye from my experience will provide a very even nice color but it can take a bit.

The Pro leather dye I wait about 3-4 hours and buff out really good.

I also die the leather before burnishing the edges because I use Gum Tragacanth and that can keep the dye from working too well.

So far with my belts even if I dye the inside I have dyed it, finished it then put some neats foot oil to soften it.

My experience with the Pro leather dye also is it will stiffen the leather a little but just a little bit of flexing while it's drying keeps it nice and pliable.

After the neats is all soaked up I buff it out again and apply fiebings snow proof and it's ready to go.

That's just what I have done so far and some others may say it's all wrong but I haven't had any belts bleed yet.

[Northmount]

Acrylic finishes are water based versus a lacquer. Acrylic can be cut (thinned) using water. Many cut it to 50% to apply! and apply multiple coats.

Tom

[89cherokeelimited]

I stand corrected

A guy at Tandy told me the Super Shene was waterbased and the Resolene was acrylic.

I've used Super Shene and did not like it at all, i've had the best luck out of Resolene.

[Dwight]

Cut the blank, . . . measure and punch the holes to make the blank the "right" length belt. Make the belt keeper.

Now all mine are 2 layer belts, . . . so this is where I glue the pieces together, . . . sand the edges, . . . run my #4 edger down both sides, . . . stitch groove the thing, . . . then run it through my sewing machine.

Dye with Feibings pro oil dye, . . . cut 50/50 with Feibing thinner, . . . let dry 24 hours, . . . buff off the extra pigment, . . . buff again, . . . buff again, . . . buff until a white face cloth will not show any appreciable pigment coming off.

Burnish the edges real good, . . . apply a coat of 50/50 resolene and water, . . . OR, . . . apply a pre-blended 50/50 mixture (measured by weight) of virgin beeswax and neatsfoot oil, . . .

The wax/oil mixture has to be put on by hand, . . . then hit with a heat gun on low, . . . melts the wax and helps it cling to the leather pores. THIS IS something you want to practice before putting on a finished product. See if you like it.

Resolene will give you a more stiff belt, . . . wax/nfo a more supple belt.

Then leave it over night and the next day, . . . polish it like you were getting ready for Captain's inspection.

This is my workflow, . . . so to speak, . . . don't get any complaints, . . . so it must be working.

May God bless,

Dwight

[89cherokeelimited]

Cut the blank, . . . measure and punch the holes to make the blank the "right" length belt. Make the belt keeper.

Now all mine are 2 layer belts, . . . so this is where I glue the pieces together, . . . sand the edges, . . . run my #4 edger down both sides, . . . stitch groove the thing, . . . then run it through my sewing machine.

Dye with Feibings pro oil dye, . . . cut 50/50 with Feibing thinner, . . . let dry 24 hours, . . . buff off the extra pigment, . . . buff again, . . . buff again, . . . buff until a white face cloth will not show any appreciable pigment coming off.

Burnish the edges real good, . . . apply a coat of 50/50 resolene and water, . . . OR, . . . apply a pre-blended 50/50 mixture (measured by weight) of virgin beeswax and neatsfoot oil, . . .

The wax/oil mixture has to be put on by hand, . . . then hit with a heat gun on low, . . . melts the wax and helps it cling to the leather pores. THIS IS something you want to practice before putting on a finished product. See if you like it.

Resolene will give you a more stiff belt, . . . wax/nfo a more supple belt.

Then leave it over night and the next day, . . . polish it like you were getting ready for Captain's inspection.

This is my workflow, . . . so to speak, . . . don't get any complaints, . . . so it must be working.

May God bless,

Dwight

Do you melt the beezwax before mixing the oil and wax?

Would you do this instead of waterproofing?

I've been putting snow proof on it but wax and oil sounds like a good mixture that should waterproof it shouldn't it?

Thanks

[Dwight]

All I do is put the wax and the oil in a jar, . . . set it in my crock pot with enough water in it to float the jar of wax & oil, . . . and go find something to do for about a half hour.

When I come back, . . . all is melted and run together, . . . so I grab the jar with a hot glove, . . . pour the contents into cupcake papers in a muffin pan, . . . let it harden up, . . . stack it up on the shelf.

I use it almost like it was Kiwi shoe polish, . . . the same process will work for you.

And yes, . . . it will darn near waterproof something. Makes a really nice finish.

May God bless,

Dwight

[89cherokeelimited]

All I do is put the wax and the oil in a jar, . . . set it in my crock pot with enough water in it to float the jar of wax & oil, . . . and go find something to do for about a half hour.

When I come back, . . . all is melted and run together, . . . so I grab the jar with a hot glove, . . . pour the contents into cupcake papers in a muffin pan, . . . let it harden up, . . . stack it up on the shelf.

I use it almost like it was Kiwi shoe polish, . . . the same process will work for you.

And yes, . . . it will darn near waterproof something. Makes a really nice finish.

May God bless,

Dwight

Awesome thank you!

I'm going to try this tonight.

[Gwhite]

First, thanks to everyone for the feedback. My computer went wonky, and my free time has been sucked up with that, so I haven't had a chance to reply until now.

Now that I have the order of things straight, I've been looking into the details of each step using the archives & Google.

I like the sound of the wax & neatsfoot oil. For general use, I think I will get some Resolene. The acrylic finish I have is the Eco-Flo Super Shene, which is a bit too glossy for my tastes. I found a lengthy video on YouTube comparing a number of finishes. The Resolene came out the winner, although he didn't have Super Shene in his collection.

The next research topic is saddle stitching. I saw a tutorial pinned at the top of this forum, so I'll start there. It's been a while, and I definitely need a refresher on the details. I should also check that my needles haven't gotten (literally) rusty. The nearest Tandy is a half an hour away, and I'd hate to go get the Resolene to come home & discover I also needed needles...

[billybopp]

If you do not like Super Sheen, you may not like Resolene. Both of them are pretty glossy.

You might try Eco-Flo Satin Sheen, which is more matte with just a little shine. Be sure to shake it well before use if you use it. It brushes on nicely, or can be sponged or sprayed. If you want something between those two options, you can mix a little Satin Sheen with Super Sheen in a container, but you'll have to experiment to see what mix gets the result you want. I'd start with 3 parts Super to 1 part Satin and go from there.

You might also try Eco Flo Professional Finish Clear Matte. It dries to a very flat finish. The Eco-Flo Pro stuff has a sort of squeeze bottle tip and has to be decanted into something for use. The clear matte comes out very thick: almost like Elmers glue. It's best applied with a slightly damp sponge and not with a brush. Again, you may be able to mix these two to get just the amount of shine that you want.

Fiebings Tan-Kote and Bag-Kote are also less shiny options. I think I remember seeing that they are not-so-waterproof, tho.

Hope that helps!

Bill

[KY PI]

Dwight, Great explaination of preparation and use of the neatsfoot oil/beeswax. I'm goin to try that method myself!