Need Help With Purse Pattern

[rawr66]

So I bought the pattern for this bag and I'm having some trouble figuring out how it goes together.

I've used patterns before, but they've all had written instructions come with them and this one doesn't.

It appears as though the front is stitched inside out and flipped around, and the back is stitched right side out with a strip around the raw edges. From the two versions shown there is a variation on the front; there's three pieces of leather on the gusset seams of the pink one, and there's two on the gusset seam of the blue one. What could it be?

Also, from the pattern the front and back main pieces of the bag are the same size, and there's a separate pattern for the flap. In the pictures it looks like the back piece and the flap are one piece but the pattern makes it seem like they would be stitched together. Would I just cut out one for the front, and then add the two pattern pieces together for the flap and back?

[DoubleC]

The reason you're getting confused is you're looking at different angles. A gusset can be 1, 2 or 3 pieces. Theoretically I guess they could be more. The flap doesn't have to be sewn on, you can make it in one piece with the back, or you can cut a separate piece. If your pattern shows it one piece then cut it that way. A pattern can be daunting especially without written instruction. I think when you get your piece cut out you'll have an easier time seeing how it all goes together. Cheryl

[Bob Blea]

I suggest trying to make a mock up of the pieces from paper or card stock. Once you have the parts and start assembling the mock up purse it might become clear, or you might find where you need to modify the pattern to make it work.

[rosiart]

Did you try emailing the pattern people?

[Realm13]

It appears as though the front is stitched inside out and flipped around, and the back is stitched right side out with a strip around the raw edges. From the two versions shown there is a variation on the front; there's three pieces of leather on the gusset seams of the pink one, and there's two on the gusset seam of the blue one. What could it be?

The pink one seems like it has three layers because it has piping done on the front section. You can see an brief tutorial on it from Ian Atkinson here (it's the last thing covered in the video IIRC): http://youtu.be/jOiuBcl2fek?list=UULkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ. Just a visual difference, it's not too hard to do if you like the look.

Also, from the pattern the front and back main pieces of the bag are the same size, and there's a separate pattern for the flap. In the pictures it looks like the back piece and the flap are one piece but the pattern makes it seem like they would be stitched together. Would I just cut out one for the front, and then add the two pattern pieces together for the flap and back

I haven't see the pattern before but it sounds like your on the right track, might just be a way to open up some options. I have talked to this shop owner before and they were fairly helpful. Might want to email them like rosiart mentioned.

[MonicaJacobson]

Yeah, I think you'll get good help from the shop people. Realm 13, thanks for the link, I'm going to watch that myself.

[Realm13]

No problem. All of Ian's videos are great to learn from IMO. I think I've watched that video 50 times myself, I still have a tough time with some of these techniques.

[MonicaJacobson]

I should have watched it 50 times. I have trouble making time to watch videos. Maybe I'll start watching while I sew something.

[blue duck]

You are right the front is sewn to the gusset with the right sides together and include piping. The back is sewn to the gusset wrong sides together and wrapped with trim.

As far as the gusset goes, They may just be giving you options when cutting your leather. As Double C said it really doesn't matter, as long as you get the total length you need.

Without seeing the actual pattern pieces you have it is hard to tell. However, if I were making the pattern, the back and flap would be one piece, the back pocket, and the front. Looking at it it appears that this is how it is built as well. Would that make sense of the pieces you have? It may be since they are or should be th same width and contours, just different heights, the part you have for a flap is that actually the back pocket? If they are actually marked front/back, flap, back pocket. Yes you would attach the flap to the back, just make sure you add seam allowance. It just doesn't look like it was made that way though. Again it may just be an option for leather cutting. If you have the leather available and it is two separate pieces of pattern you could just put them together and cut it out so you don't have the seam, pretty much what you said.

If I had this pattern to put together without instructions I would do it like this:

Turn back pocket top and stitch down.

Add hardware/straps to front flap.

Glue/tack back pocket to back/flap piece. Set aside.

Sew gusset pieces together.

Sew strap and add hardware to gusset. Set aside.

Create inside pocket.

Create piping.

Turn and sew top of front pockets.

Sew hardware to pockets.

Sew pockets to front - center seam and glue/tack pockets to front on edges.

Attach front to gusset, including piping.

Glue/tack inside pocket to top of front.

Turn inside out.

Sew trim around top of both gussets and front.

Tack/Glue back/flap piece to gusset, flesh sides together.

Sew with trim around flap, gussets, back.

Make and Attach strap.

If I confused you more than helped, tell me where I derailed and I will try and fix it.

[rawr66]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll try emailing the shop and see if I can get some more answers from them. Thanks for the great information and break down blue duck. Once I get some pigskin for lining I'll start looking at it in more detail and get working.