Has anyone tried this?

[wolvenstien]

Thinking about water proofing outdoor use leather products such as motorcycle items, it occured to me, i have a parifin wax bath thing that was bought some years ago but never really used.... how would the leather do if dipped after antiquing or dying?

[Hidemechanic]

Not sure, but antiquing is kind of waxy so I'm not sure if it would fade your antique. I presume you are talking about vege tan. For some items I use hot stuffed waxy latago which is impregnated with wayes and oils at the tannery. I bet it would be messy to do at home. As for tooling, if that's what you're wanting to do, latago doesn't tool much like non-oiled vege.I've never done a full basket or anything but I have done border stanps and it takes it pretty well. The saddle pics here(sorry for the poor shots and lighting) are of an endurance saddle i build using amost all waxed latago. All borders have that little rose X tool(craftool D616). I think it would be great for bags, cause all you have to do to treat the stuff is rub on some mink oil now and then. GH

[howardb]

Paraffin as it is in the bath ain't the same stuff as finishing waxes. Probably not even the same compounds. Paraffin = candle wax and is hard & flaky. Mixed with other things and solvents it might be made into finishing wax, but not as-is.

Brent

[wildrose]

I used Aussie Wax on my English saddle and it restored it beautifully, also kept the dust off it longer. I'd recommend it.

[Hedge]

I used to hang around with a group called the SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism). They used paraffin on their leather. But, the

purpose was to make it hard and to hold shape for leather armor. It doesn't give you the nice result I think you're looking for. Not

only that, but melting paraffin and hot dipping can be a hazardous activity. Those are petrol vapors you'd be exposed to...very flamable.

Best bet would be a good water proofing cream containing bees wax like the Aussie wax wildrose mentioned.

Gary

[SCOUTER]

Wolvie- Brent is right on... Paraffin is hard candle type wax. Melted it is like candle wax but if put on flexible leather it will crack. I teach my scouts that we don't want to "waterproof" leather... The whole reason for using leather in the first place is it's ability to exchange vapor. If you "waterproof" boots for example, you will sweat so much inside that your feet will be wet anyway. The use of leather on motorcycle goods is just for tradition and aesthetics. Vinyl would be a much better choice but you deal with the factor. Truth is that we try to adapt leather to do everything.

[leatheroo]

i like my quivers to be waterproof and have been using this product for years

http://www.belpard.com.au/ProductDetails/906/Renaissance

It keeps the leather soft and supple but repels water...it also brings out the color of the dye more (the photo is on undyed leather)...it can be buffed to a nice shine ....a little bit goes a long way!!!

[The Major]

After your finishing, give it a couple coats of Pecards leather dressing.

[Sharpshooter]

I do a lot of sheaths for "hard use" in the woods and several for active duty military.

We've tested several "wet proofing" treatments including the time tested paraffin hot waxing.

Paraffin actually seems to work well... for a while.... then the sheath deteriorates quickly compared to one that didn't get a hot wax job. I'm thinking it's partially the "Hot" and partially the fact that paraffin is a petroleum product so it may well be damaging the leather fibers.

What I have arrived at is Obenauf's LP. There are no petroleum products in it only natural oils and Beeswax/Propolis.

Great stuff.

[pete]

Montana Pitch Blend. Pure pitch and beeswax.

pete