Oakley Report post Posted September 3, 2014 Hello, I'm looking for a slow running/ strong servo motor for machines like Adler 30-1 or Singer 45K. My problem is I don't want one which controls the speed by chain or by rods. I'am looking for a motor which can be controled by a electronic accelerator. I hope somebody knows a brand or a way how it would work. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted September 3, 2014 I think you don´t have many options then. The only one I have ever heard of it the one that Sailrite offers but I think this is sometime they have puzzled together and it costs a lot of money. http://www.sailrite.com/MC-SCR-Power-System-110-Volt But I don´t see a big advantage of this system as the up to date servo motors have up to 750 or even 1000 watts and should strong enough out of the box and if they do not have enough torque add a smaller pulley and / or speed reducer. That still cheaper than the Sailrite system. But if you don´t like rods and chains then you have to buy the sailrite motor. But maybe someone knows other systems Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SARK9 Report post Posted September 3, 2014 There are several brands of low-cost "servo" motors which share a common type of speed control....the ones I am familiar with are made like the Consew CS-1000. They appear to have an "optical" speed controller of a sort, which functions by having an opaque shutter progressively reduce the amount of a light available to a receptor. Mechanically, its very simple. Having done the well-known reshaping mod of the small shutter blade on four of these motors, I would expect that its very possible to completely unmount this sub assembly and mount it remotely, connectiong back to the motor using only lengthened wires. It looks like a trivial bit of tinkering to work out whatever pedal or knee control etc. would be convenient for the operator, if that is what the issue is. At least it gives you an option for less than $599! -DC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted September 3, 2014 BTW - I have a JACK Servo Motor with 750 watts and a separate accelerator unit so if you like the tinkering you can mount the accelerator unit to the foot pedal but If it makes sense is another question. And as SARK9 said you need a longer wire. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gump Report post Posted September 3, 2014 I have a new Artisan Toro 3200, and it has the accelerator down by the pedal with about a 2" connecting rod. The motor sits behind the head, and the motor controller sits on the end of the table by the flywheel. So yes there are alternative setups available. Gump. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oakley Report post Posted September 6, 2014 Thank you for the answers. My problem is I wanted to mount different machines on a single table which has no pedal, but I've got righthand and lefthand machines. Probably the best solution is to change the position of the motor and use an own table with a pedal. I found this video in Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywhfblgi3FU does somebody knows which motor he uses? That's exactly what I'm looking for if I have to mount it on an own table. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted September 6, 2014 He says he has a HoHsing servo motor. But this motor has not an accelerator pedal as far as I know. it works as most of the motors with a rod. I´d assume it is the most common HoHsing which is the MJ series Motor. http://www.hohsing.com/index.php/en/ac-servo-motor-en/113-mj-en I´m not exactly sure what you planed how to setup the two machines but to me it sounds like you have a left standing cylinder machine and probably a flat bed machine and you want to run both with one motor, tight? Then a solution could be a shaft running below your table at the full length, either end of the shaft is mounted to bearing block and on the shaft you have 3 pulley, one for the motor V-belt and one for either machine V-belt. Problem is the pulleys spin permanently and so the machines do. Except you machines with a hand wheel friction clutch (right term?) like some Singers have but the then the the hand wheel spins all the time. So maybe you can just slip off the V-belt of the machine you don´t use. You know what I mean? If my impression is not correct maybe you can describe your machine / table situation a little bit or post some pictures. Due to my space problems I also run 2 machines with one motor but both are Singer flat beds with the same size bed so I can just switch the machines. Only thing I need are 2 V-belts and the one I´m not using is handing down from my speed reducer - works quite well. And I´m planing the same thing for 2 cylinder / arm sewing machines on the other end of the table. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oakley Report post Posted September 6, 2014 The idea was to place different machines on my joiner's bench to save space. Of course this one has no pedal. That's why I was looking for a motor with an accelerator pedal but if these solutions are much more expensive I'll use a special sewing machine table. The Problem is that I've got a Singer 18-2 which goes from left to right, a Singer 45K (cylindrical bed) and a Adler 30-1. I would like to use all machines with the same motor to save money and especially space. The machines don't have to run at once. I need a motor which runs very slow, the speed in the video would be completely ok for me. At the moment I don't have a motor at all. The Adler works fine with the hand wheel but the other machines but the other ones don't. Probably the best solution is the extra table and a second attachment for the motor on the left side, if I want to work with the 18-2. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GerryR Report post Posted September 6, 2014 There is another option, using a 3 phase, ac motor, with a Variable Frequency Drive (VFD). You can use a linear potentiometer (pot) with a spring return to vary the speed. I have mine set up using a homemade foot pedal and a bicycle brake cable running to the pot. (You could adapt a TIG welder foot pedal control with the already built-in pot, if you didn't want to build your own.) I started with a 1 hp, 3 phase, 1725 rpm motor and added a 5:1 gear reducer to bring the top speed down to 345 rpm. The pot varies the speed from 0 to 345. I purchased the motor and gear reducer from Burden Surplus Center (www.surpluscenter.com) and the VFD from Automation Direct (www.automationdirect.com). It took a little work, but once setup, it works great. You could also add a switch wired to the VFD to reverse the motor direction, for a machine mounted on the opposite side of the table or requiring reverse rotation. Just another option. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted September 8, 2014 It annoys everyone else in the industry in Australia but I am self taught and use my training as a design engineer when I set sewing machines up for people. Things like the Singer 16, 17, 18, 19 or even 31/44 class I build special mountings to run them with 180W domestic motors. Something like a 45k needs a 4 pole 550/600W industrial motor with a 30mm ID pulley. A good quality clutch motor can give you good control. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites