Colt W Knight Report post Posted September 24, 2014 Thanks Bill. I'm sure the rivets will darken down over time. As far as turning green that I'm not sure of. Yes, Copper rivets will turn green. I just had some do that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyshannen Report post Posted September 24, 2014 I do see your point, I hadn't really thought about it like that. Solid copper rivets are all I work with and from what I've found is if you don't protect the head wile pounding on them they do oxidize pretty quickly. IE, if you just place it on a piece of raw granite with nothing covering it they seem to turn green in a few weeks. But if I place a piece of tough pig skin between the rivet head and the granite or anvil they don't seem to turn green. They will still darken much like a penny does but don't actually turn green. Least that's been my experience. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted September 24, 2014 Yes, Copper rivets will turn green. I just had some do that. Well then....good to know. Can you remove the green by polishing? I do see your point, I hadn't really thought about it like that. Solid copper rivets are all I work with and from what I've found is if you don't protect the head wile pounding on them they do oxidize pretty quickly. IE, if you just place it on a piece of raw granite with nothing covering it they seem to turn green in a few weeks. But if I place a piece of tough pig skin between the rivet head and the granite or anvil they don't seem to turn green. They will still darken much like a penny does but don't actually turn green. Least that's been my experience. Thanks for the input that's good to know! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted September 24, 2014 I am pretty sure those copper rivets come from the factory with a coating to keep them from tarnishing in the box. Once you cut, hammer on them, it wears the coating off leaving them subject to tarnish. Yes, you can polish off the corrosion. Something like Never Dull will take it right off. If you want to prevent the tarnish, you can top coat them with something. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted September 24, 2014 I am pretty sure those copper rivets come from the factory with a coating to keep them from tarnishing in the box. Once you cut, hammer on them, it wears the coating off leaving them subject to tarnish. Yes, you can polish off the corrosion. Something like Never Dull will take it right off. If you want to prevent the tarnish, you can top coat them with something. Sweet! I guarantee when they turn green my wife will want me to do something about it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted September 24, 2014 I wonder if something like clear nail polish would be good to prevent corrosion? Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted September 24, 2014 Well I know the wife has plenty of that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JREESER1 Report post Posted September 24, 2014 Wonderful! I love your innovation. Improving things you feel are not quite what you want. I like the addition of the the copper rivets, as well. I use them as often as I can. Good job, my friend! jr Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Macca Report post Posted September 24, 2014 LOL. The other one was machine stitched as well... I am sorry to have let you down Macca. Now say if you were will to part with that sweet set of NOS Dixon pricking irons and one of the 59872383 vergez draw gauges you have I'd gladly devote hours and hours to the wonder of hand stitching? I managed to pick up some 12SPI old dixon irons recently, finally ! Now just got to get 14's & I'm finished.. Back on topic, nice job ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted September 24, 2014 Wonderful! I love your innovation. Improving things you feel are not quite what you want. I like the addition of the the copper rivets, as well. I use them as often as I can. Good job, my friend! jr Thank you very much jr! I managed to pick up some 12SPI old dixon irons recently, finally ! Now just got to get 14's & I'm finished.. Back on topic, nice job ! Thanks Macca! However, you know deep down you will never be finished collecting.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReneeJ Report post Posted September 25, 2014 So I got so much great feedback I decided to make another roll top bag. This one is made out of Horween Dark Cognac Essex. I used all copper rivets and antique brass snaps. I think the colors look very nice with this bag. I also used size 138 thread which definitely looks better. Although my machine does not like it. I get skipped stitches as well as top thread fraying a lot with size 138 thread. I need to try and figure that out...any tips would be great appreciated. I'm using a size 22 needle with an adler 67 sewing machine. I added finger tabs for the the snaps because on the original bag its a b*tch to snap the flap closed. The tabs help a ton! This is the first time I've used copper rivets as well. OMG I love them so much more than rapid rivets. Thanks again for all the comments on the last thread. It helped me make this bag which I think is definitely an improvement! Joe Rolltop Bag V2.jpg Rolltop Bag V2-2.jpg Rolltop Bag V2-3.jpg Hey Joe , love this bag. I so want to create a bags without liners. the liners are such a pain for me, but Im using chrome tan leathers so they tend to need the finishing for stucture. On the 138 thread im assuming your using bonded nylon thread already, but I find #20 needle works best with 138. I like the smaller holes the #20 leaves. I use the Sailrite LS1w/ the Monster wheel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted September 25, 2014 Hey Joe , love this bag. I so want to create a bags without liners. the liners are such a pain for me, but Im using chrome tan leathers so they tend to need the finishing for stucture. On the 138 thread im assuming your using bonded nylon thread already, but I find #20 needle works best with 138. I like the smaller holes the #20 leaves. I use the Sailrite LS1w/ the Monster wheel. Thanks Renee! I'll have to try the smaller needle and see if it helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M J Moser Report post Posted September 30, 2014 Nice work, and a great looking piece =] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted September 30, 2014 Nice work, and a great looking piece =] Thank you very much! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites