Outside Presser Foot Marking The Leather (Pfaff 335)

[oclack]

Howdy,

I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out why my Pfaff 335 is marking my leather, especially at the start of a stitch line where I backtack. I've attempted to lighten the pressure of the presser-feet by backing off the knurled nob at the top of the machine, to the point it is barely hanging on to the machine, but it doesn't seem to have much of an impact. The inner presser foot seems to be fine, but the out foot is an issue.

I've even placed my finger under the presser foot (machine off and needle out of course) to see if I can feel any difference in the pressure bing applied... I'm not sure what it should feel like, but its heavy. Seems like the the top pressure is not being affected by loosening the knob on top. That said, I haven't a clue what I'm doing.

I've included a few picture to show how loose the top knob is, the position of the presser feet (they seem a bit canted to the left) and the marks being left on the leather. BTW... I'm stitching 3-4oz harness leather from Wicket & Craig.

Any ideas whats going on here?

[Constabulary]

There is a very narrow and quite sharp angled piece of needle plate on the left and on this narrow piece of steel comes all the pressure of a very narrow left toe foot. What I want to say is that all the foot pressure is concentrated on small spot and this causes the marking. If you had a wider needle plate on the left and a wider left toe I think it "could" solve it but I don´t know if such parts are available for the 335. Or try a wider right toe foot and see if it solves the problem as there is "much more needle plate" on the right. You know what I mean?

Your presser foot is barely touching the needle plate.

Edited September 28, 2014 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

My thoughts about the 335 in general are that they were originally designed as tape binding machines and not as leather sewing machines. Most of the Pfaff 335 I have seen are set up as tape binding machines. I think the Consew 227 type machines or Pfaff 345 are the better leather sewing machines.

Edited September 28, 2014 by Constabulary

[oclack]

There is a very narrow and quite sharp angled piece of needle plate on the left and on this narrow piece of steel comes all the pressure of a very narrow left toe foot.

post-31940-0-62751900-1411874607.jpg

I did worry that this is at least part of the issue, but also assumed it was like this on all 335 machines. Do you know if the cant/rotation of the feet can be changed?

[oclack]

My thoughts about the 335 in general are that they were originally designed as tape binding machines and not as leather sewing machines. Most of the Pfaff 335 I have seen are set up as tape binding machines. I think the Consew 227 type machines or Pfaff 345 are the better leather sewing machines.

I have been battling with this machine since day 1 and have on several occasions thought about trading it in for a Singer 31-15 or something like a TechSew 2700. But each time I have someone tell me about about how great they are and perfect for what I want to do. I primarily want to use this machine for wallets, dress belts, Dopp bags and pouches.

My thoughts about the 335 in general are that they were originally designed as tape binding machines and not as leather sewing machines. Most of the Pfaff 335 I have seen are set up as tape binding machines. I think the Consew 227 type machines or Pfaff 345 are the better leather sewing machines.

I have been battling with this machine since day 1 and have on several occasions thought about trading it in for a Singer 31-15 or something like a TechSew 2700. But each time I have someone tell me about about how great they are and perfect for what I want to do. I primarily want to use this machine for wallets, dress belts, Dopp bags and pouches.

[Constabulary]

Not sure what you mean with rotation...

If you google for Pfaff 335 you will find pictures of other needle plates with a little more "beef" on the left side but they seem to be checkered and for tape binding and I don´t know if they will mark the leather on the underside.

https://www.google.com/search?q=pfaff+335&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=gxsoVNGZOKufygOj-IHICA&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&biw=1280&bih=866#hl=en&tbm=isch&q=pfaff+335+needle+plate

Maybe there are other variants... I don´t know what else is available for the 335. I´d check with one of the dealers who have banners on this website.

Cylinder machines are for sure more versatile than flat beds but If you sew only flat items like wallets I think a flat bed machines is the better choice.

I would not trade for a 31-15, thats a bad deal but for a 227 type machine I´d trade it immediately.

Just my 2 cents.

Edited September 28, 2014 by Constabulary

[Wizcrafts]

The inside foot is severely bent up on the left and down on the right. This is wrong! Replace the inside foot, or both feet.

[oclack]

The inside foot is severely bent up on the left and down on the right. This is wrong! Replace the inside foot, or both feet.

Wiz,

I think that's more of my Dremel hack job than anything. I attempted to smooth out the feet and cut off some of the extra length of the inner foot to help see the needle better. The inner foot could definitely use a bit of work, but at least its not marking the leather anymore. Its the outer foot giving me hell.

After looking at it again... I seems that the outer foot is slamming against the needle plate to the point of bending it a bit. The outer foot is also turned out to the left a bit giving it a funny angle on the pressor feet.

Here's a quick video of the action...

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Wjc1XAbaYpc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Edited September 28, 2014 by oclack

[oclack]

BTW... The video above shows a new inner and outer foot installed.

[Wizcrafts]

It would be a good idea to rotate the outside foot so it's inline with the indie foot and not hitting outside the throat plate.

[Constabulary]

Do you see that the left toe is shifting a bit to the left in the moment it hits the needle plate? I´d still look for a foot with a wider left toe and / or a different needle plate. Or try to adjust the presser foot bar a bit to the right the way that at the toe has more contact with the top of the needle plate.

[oclack]

It would be a good idea to rotate the outside foot so it's inline with the indie foot and not hitting outside the throat plate.

Or try to adjust the presser foot bar a bit to the right the way that at the toe has more contact with the top of the needle plate.

I was thinking this would help as well. It seems that the way the outer presser foot is hitting the plate, is creating an awkward sandwiching of the leather causing it to rub and leave those ugly marks. If the pressor foot was hitting the plate more squarely this may be reduced.

How do I do this? I don't see an obvious (at least not to me) way to adjust the rotation of the presser foot.

BTW... Thanks for the help guys!

[Constabulary]

I have no 335 parts list to show you a picture but when you open the face plate then there should be a clamp around the presser foot bar, it should be secured with one screw. Loosen the screw carefully (maybe 1/4 - 1/2 turn) and then turn the presser foot bar a bit to the right and then fasten the screw again. If you are unsure please post a close up picture of your machine with removed face plate.

I just stumbled over this thread

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=47557

Click on the pictures of the 335 - especially the 2nd one. This one has a needle plate with a bit more material on the left side. Maybe the machine has a different subclass but I think this is the needle plate you need!!!

[Constabulary]

This is a picture from the new type 335 parts list but I think it should look the same in your machine:

[Colt W Knight]

I am surprised the machine is sewing correctly with that outside presser foot falling of the edge and shifting everytime it comes down.

[Constabulary]

you still have the back side of the foot that is holding down the material.

[oclack]

I was able to figure out how to rotate the outer foot to fall on the needle plate more squarely, but its still producing that nasty marking on this softer leather - maybe due to the still sharp edge of the needle plate. Since I'm under the gun to get a batch of wallets out in the next week I decided to just take the machine down to Bogle-Greenwell and have his guys look over the machine for me. If they can't offer a solution to get me up and running properly, I'll have to consider trading it in and finding a different machine. I know he has a couple of Consew 227 machines a few flatbeds that may work for my needs too. We'll see.

[oclack]

Would it be completely foolished to swap out this machine for a Consew227? I have to get these wallets knocked out ASAP. If the Pfaff 335 can't be corrected to work properly and not scare thin leathers, like this Wicket & Craig harness, I feel I should start looking at other options. I've had this machine nearly a year and haven't bren able to produce hardly a thing?

Can the Consew 227 stitch with 138 thread? Are there a variety of foot options? What about a flatbed or table attachment?

[Constabulary]

I personally would take the 227 but be aware that some do not have reverse but you will notice it for sure as the reverse lever is missing

Big advantage is that the Consew 227 takes the Singer 111w / 153w type presser feet as it is based on the Singer 153w so you have a wide range of accessories to choose from.

As you are buying from a dealer as it seems I´d test the machine before you take it home and I´d ask that he adjusts it for the thread you are using if necessary. The 227 can easily handle 138 thread!

[oclack]

Well... After a lot of trial and a lot of error I think we may have finally gotten this machine squared away. The mechanis over at Bogle-Greenwell (some of you may know Leo) found that the pressure spring was just way too heavy - probably a result of this being an old factory machine. Turning the pressure knob on top of the machine was having little affect especially in the light weight leather I'm stitching. After cutting off an 1.5" of the spring the problem seems to be resolved. I'm hauling it back to the workshop now. The test runs we did look great, but the real test will be how it handles these 40 wallets waiting for me on the work bench. I'm very hopeful that I'll finally be able to put this machine to work and start to recoup the money I've out into it. Thank you all for the help. I'll let you know how things turn out.

[Northmount]

That's really great news. Good luck

Tom

[thesergeant]

I was experiencing this same thing with my Pfaff 145-H4, which has the same presser foot tension assembly as yours. The pressure was extremely high and would "thump" the needle plate if I was sewing anything less than 4 layers of vinyl, multiple layers of leather, etc.

I wish I would have seen this thread earlier as I could have saved you a trip to the mechanic. You actually don't need to cut the spring, you can loosen the set screw that holds the black cylindrical piece in place that the screw threads into. You can grab it with some vise grips and slowly back the piece out. I pulled it out all the way, measured it and put it back in making sure it went deep enough to contact the set screw.