Members ChuckBurrows Posted October 21, 2014 Members Report Posted October 21, 2014 I've used all three and style 2 is the one that the Old George Lawrence Co used on hundreds if not thousands of their gun belts. Style 1 is more likely to push through to the back and then only if the loops aren't slightly oversize as Dwight noted, or the belt is not lined, or you're not wearing it - if you're wearing it then the loops cannot push out the back. Rather than sewing them on an unlined belt I've used spots and/or cap rivets between the loops on style 3 - adds nice deco and keeps the loops on the front. You can several belts done like this on my website. With style 2, which is my favorite for various reasons, I've never had the loops push out the back when unlined once the loops are form fitted. This is the style I use for my personal gear and in over 50 years wearing such a cartridge belt I've never had any problems even when working in the outdoors for long periods in my younger days as a cow hand, trapper, and guide and it's stronger than sewn loops. Also never had the back of the loops wear away when unlined. Quote Wild Rose Trading Company Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.
Members Bruno Rock Posted October 21, 2014 Author Members Report Posted October 21, 2014 Thanks a lot for all the opinions, soon I'll try style number 2 Quote Bruno Migliorini's Leather Works on Facebook Bruno Migliorini's Leather Works on Instagram
Members TexasJack Posted October 22, 2014 Members Report Posted October 22, 2014 Will Ghormley had some good pictures illustrating the way he sews cartridge loops - I believe it's on the post he did for the "Hand of God" holster. Quote
Members Dwight Posted October 22, 2014 Members Report Posted October 22, 2014 Sewing on loops like Will showed produces a very pretty gun belt, . . . and it will carry the cartridges, . . . But if you get John Bianchi's video series on making western gun leather, . . . his process is much cleaner looking, . . . and from my personal experience, . . . is a better way to do it. Of course, . . . Will's process is geared mostly to the hand sewer, . . . John's is to the machine man. Either will work, . . . but neither is as durable as the #2 post from Bruno Rock above. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members TexasJack Posted October 23, 2014 Members Report Posted October 23, 2014 Chuck, I thought you'd already gone into hibernation for the winter!! Good to see you post! This is not a very elaborate thread, but it's fun to discuss techniques in some detail. I like to know why I might choose a particular method over another one, or when one method might be better for a particular application. Guys like Chuck and Will make this stuff look easy, but they've had some serious depth of experience to get to that point. Quote
Members bushpilotmexico Posted March 2, 2015 Members Report Posted March 2, 2015 Hi Dwight, I sent you a PM asking what tool you use to cut the slots? thx Quote
Members Geneva Posted March 2, 2015 Members Report Posted March 2, 2015 I use nickel plated brass rivets between cartridges, no glue. A 1" bag punch for the slots. You should be able to get 18 rounds on a size 40/42" belt. 24 rounds on a size 48/50" belt. Naturally there is a liner on the belt sewn top and bottom of the finished loops. 5/8ths. inch spacing 1/2" from the top of the belt. You don't need to wet the loop material to make it work. I use .41 mag cartridges for the 45 long Colt. My 2 cents Quote
Members bagga Posted January 25, 2016 Members Report Posted January 25, 2016 just what i was looking for. Quote
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