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One of the girls at work asked me to make her a handcuff case so I set to work on it and when it was finished I decided I didn't like the way it had come out. I decided to scrap the first one and start over so I went with a new design for this one and I think it came out pretty well. The only thing that bothers me is there's a cut on the inside of the case flap which I didn't think was so bad until I got it glued together. In any event I used a piece of scrap lumber to mold the leather and used a foodsaver to vacuum mold the wet leather. I had some work to do after molding to get the crosshatch pattern of the bag out of the leather but it came out easy enough. Cuffs fit well in the case and do not rattle when the case is shaken. Here it is:

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Stu

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That looks great. I think you did a great job on it.

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That's a nice looking case ! What's the thickness of the leather you used

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That looks great. I think you did a great job on it.

Thank you, I hope she's happy with it too.

That's a nice looking case ! What's the thickness of the leather you used

I guess I forgot to give details in the OP. The leather is el cheapo 7-8oz double shoulder from Tandy, dye is Feibings Oil black and it's finished with eco-flo satin shene outside and tan-kote inside. I'm trying to seal the dye so it doesn't come off on what's in the case an issue I had with some other projects. I doubt the stainless cuffs would be affected by the dye but the Tan-Kote is a test run for other projects. It also helped stiffen the case a bit, especially the flap.

Stu

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Case looks really good to me. If you are concerned about the dye coming off, you could always go with vinegaroon for black. Where it's a chemical reaction, no dye to rub off. I like Edge gloss for edges and flats of projects, might be a bit better then the tan kote for the insides

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I'll have to check out the Vinegaroon, that sounds like it would be a better option for the insides of projects. I've only been dying my edges and burnishing with Gum Trag, I have yet to try any of the paint type products. I've been kind of wondering if it would make much of a difference and if the color will match with some of the brown that I've been using. I haven't gotten into any other colors yet, just black and light brown oil dyes. I did try the USMC black from feibings and found that really rubs off for a while, the oil dye seems much better.

Stu

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with the vinegaroon, it works its way pretty much through the leather so it would work for both the inside and the outside. If you go with the clear edge paint, won't matter what the color is, it will allow it to show through.

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Halitech, thanks for the tips, they will come in handy. I'll definitely be checking out that vinegaroon, sounds like it might be just the ticket for me. I guess I never looked into the edge paint enough, I didn't know they made it in a clear, have to check that out also. Thanks again,

Stu

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they have multiple colors as well but it was suggested to me to get the clear since it can be used on top of any other color. And glad to help out :)

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Another option for Black is to get drum dyed black leather. I've never had drum dyed leather do any rub off.

Chief

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Chief, will the drum dyed black wet mold as well as the regular veg tanned leather?

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Chief, will the drum dyed black wet mold as well as the regular veg tanned leather?

It will mould, tool, etc just like natural. I buy drum dyed Hermann Oak from Springfield Leather.

Chief

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It will mould, tool, etc just like natural. I buy drum dyed Hermann Oak from Springfield Leather.

Chief

That's good to know for future projects

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