CustomDoug Report post Posted November 1, 2014 I've been using a #23 needle for my 138 polyester and/or nylon thread and a #25 needle for my 207. I don't care for the large-ish holes that are visible in the stitch row however... I was wondering if i could possibly drop the 138 thread down to a #19 (120/19) needle and for the 207 thread perhaps a #22 (140/22) needle? I feel this would help hide the holes a lot better. But has anyone tried this at all? My threads are bonded and some say lubricated. I do not have #19 or #22 needles on hand at the moment and will order some if you guys think this is a possibility. Doug C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted November 1, 2014 This should put you close. Thanks, Bob. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CustomDoug Report post Posted November 1, 2014 Yea, I've seen all of these charts.. I was basically trying to ask if anyone had found that they could go lower on the needle sizes with any success. Doug C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbusarow Report post Posted November 2, 2014 I use a 21 for 138 and 23 or a 24 with 207 depending on the leather. Your 19 and 22 might be a little too small. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J Hayes Report post Posted November 2, 2014 I tried different tips and got better, smaller looking holes with "S" points Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gump Report post Posted November 2, 2014 For softer chrome tan garment leathers, a round point needle will give you tighter holes and more spi are possible. For vegtan, I prefer chisel or diamond points and longer stitches. The size of needle depends a lot on the firmness of the leather, ie; softer leather can be sewn with a smaller needle because the thread pulls through soft leather easier and the hole doesn't need to be as large. Denser leather may need a larger hole to allow the knot to pull up. Gump. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CustomDoug Report post Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) I tried different tips and got better, smaller looking holes with "S" pointsJ hayes, do those "S" points leave a slanted appearance to the thread that is laid down? Looking at the Campbell Bosworth chart.. the thread appears to be slanted upward (S point picture) - I like that particular angle, can you confirm it's true?I ask this because that same chart has the pictures of the LL and LR mixed up (or perhaps those are pics of the back side, or switched photgraphically somehow). http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/supply/needles.html Gump - yes I am sewing mostly soft thin chrome leathers, some chrome w/veg linings though. Anyway.. the round point needles that you are talking about, would that be the textile needles (135x17 in my case) rather than the leather specific needles (135x16) ? I'm not seeing a round point in the above chart. Is there some other letter designation I should look for? I'm using Schmetz and Groz Beckert (have not worked out a favorite yet). Thanks. Doug C Edited November 2, 2014 by CustomDoug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J Hayes Report post Posted November 2, 2014 Hope this helps. 277 top and bottom same stitch length on all aa is the tension. I like the Scmetz 25. These are all 794 system needles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gump Report post Posted November 2, 2014 Round point needles are described in Campbell's chart under " point". 135 x 17 is a round point and will not have any designation unless it is a special point. Gump. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CustomDoug Report post Posted November 2, 2014 20141101_234431.jpg Hope this helps. 277 top and bottom same stitch length on all aa is the tension. I like the Scmetz 25. These are all 794 system needles. J Hayes .. That is a huge help, thanks a ton for taking the time to make that sample up and post a picture of it. Think I'll try those "S' tips. Doug C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CustomDoug Report post Posted November 2, 2014 Round point needles are described in Campbell's chart under " point". 135 x 17 is a round point and will not have any designation unless it is a special point. Gump. Gump, your statement has confused me a little bit (probably my fault, sorry).. because I'm not seeing any mention of 'round' in their chart at all. But I think you're suggesting a common 135x17 (non leather) needle (no special point) for sewing soft thin garment leathers, for tighter holes and more SPI. Right? Doug C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gump Report post Posted November 2, 2014 Doug; Sorry ,but its not in the chart , but the description labeled "points" in the text above the chart. And yes a round point forces open a hole instead of cutting one, therefor it closes up tighter and can be spaced closer without perforating the leather. Gump. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites