1St Carving(S) And Stain Problem

[Blackbirdhills Andy]

Hi All,

I'm "Showing off" my first carvings here... As you might notice, I've only had a beginners set of tools. No different sizes in shaders, backgrounders or whatever... Tipps and criticism that will help to improve my work are always appreciated and I will learn from them, promise!! :-)

The Floral design is inspired by very old swiss folk art. Stuff like that was painted on furniture... I wanted something different than the "useual" western-style designs (absolutely NO offense!) :-)

Now the stain problem:

As you see on pic 2 where I lay out the chinks I'm working on, I'm going for a straight natural look, the deer hide was laying in the sun for 4 days so there's a color-contrast anyway... I love the look, but theres a problem:

In my carvings, a couple hours after I finished them with Fiebing's Leather Sheen, there where white stains showing (As on picture 3 "Stains"). Does anyone know why this is? Is there a way to get rid of them without staining/antiquing the leather?

Also: If I finish the Carvings with leather sheen (or resolene or whatever), the leather can't take any oil or wax or other conditioners anymore right? I've learned that leather should always be takin care of with good conditioner or oils, so what's about that?

BTW: I'm sorry for the bad quality pic and lighting, it's early morning here and I didn't wanna wait for this to post (because of that stain thing, not to show off!... ;-)

Thanks for your answers,

Regards from switzerland,

Andy

Edited November 10, 2014 by Blackbirdhills Andy

[MonicaJacobson]

I love your tooling pattern, and your tooling is looking great. I'm no expert, but I really like it. Sorry about your stain problem... sorry, I don't have any insight.

[silverwingit]

You should apply your Leather Sheen or Resolene last as a final finish or as a resist in advanced dyeing techniques. The normal order of processes for tooling leather should be something like:

1) Case leather

2) Tooling

3) Dye prep -- moisten and clean leather prior to dyeing e.g., Feibing's Dye Prep or oxalic acid

4) Actual dyeing -- I use only Feibing's Professional Oil dyes

5) Apply light coat of 100% Neetsfoot or other oil to replenish natural oils lost in dyeing

6) Apply resist prior to applying antiquing gel

7) Antique gel finish

8) Final finish

(skip steps 6 & 7 if you're not using antiquing)

It's a rotten shame that you had a poor experience here. One caveat with tooling veg-tan leather. That leather better be of very high quality or it will not take casing, tooling or dye well. I don't know what options you have for suppliers in Switzerland but I have to be very careful here in the US. I've found that Hermann Oak is the most consistent tanner over here. HO leather is a dream to tool. Maybe you can get your hands on some.

Good luck,

Michelle

[Colt W Knight]

I was having that problem until I started cleaning my leather with saddle soap while it was still wet during the casing phase.

[Blackbirdhills Andy]

I love your tooling pattern, and your tooling is looking great. I'm no expert, but I really like it. Sorry about your stain problem... sorry, I don't have any insight.

Thanks again for your kind words monica!

[Blackbirdhills Andy]

You should apply your Leather Sheen or Resolene last as a final finish or as a resist in advanced dyeing techniques. The normal order of processes for tooling leather should be something like:

1) Case leather

2) Tooling

3) Dye prep -- moisten and clean leather prior to dyeing e.g., Feibing's Dye Prep or oxalic acid

4) Actual dyeing -- I use only Feibing's Professional Oil dyes

5) Apply light coat of 100% Neetsfoot or other oil to replenish natural oils lost in dyeing

6) Apply resist prior to applying antiquing gel

7) Antique gel finish

8) Final finish

(skip steps 6 & 7 if you're not using antiquing)

It's a rotten shame that you had a poor experience here. One caveat with tooling veg-tan leather. That leather better be of very high quality or it will not take casing, tooling or dye well. I don't know what options you have for suppliers in Switzerland but I have to be very careful here in the US. I've found that Hermann Oak is the most consistent tanner over here. HO leather is a dream to tool. Maybe you can get your hands on some.

Good luck,

Michelle

Hi Michelle,

Thanks for the advice, this is actually how I did it, except from the oiling... :-)

The Leather is very high quality, and yes I know about Hermann Oak, and I've had it in my hands before. The Leather I am working with currently is very close in quality, handling etc I'd say... I choose every hide by myself and that's how I get the consistency over here...

[Blackbirdhills Andy]

I was having that problem until I started cleaning my leather with saddle soap while it was still wet during the casing phase.

Hi Colt,

Interesting! I'll try this the next time! Thanks a lot!!!