Wallet Making Checklist

[J W Craftsman]

I am prepping to make a few wallets for Christmas presents. They will be chain wallets and I will be using chainmail chains thst I am weaving myself as well. I have a few leather projects under my belt but want to make sure I have the supplies necessary to get the job done so here is my checklist what should I add/drop from the list?

Edge beveler

Edge kote

Resolene neutral finish

Feibings oil dye

Groover for stitches

Not sure what else I need for edge treatment. Some saddlesoap? Then burnish then edge kote?

I'm not sure what size and kind of needle and thread to get. I will be hand stitching. Any advice here? I'm also unsure if I want to get pricking irons or an overstitch and awl??

I do have the basic tandy beginner tools but the tools listed above are not included in that Kit. I will be ordering from SLC

I'm wanting to make a minimalist style wallet. I've included a picture of one. I'm not copying this but it's the style I'm going for. I'm currently working on a design. I was thinking 4-5oz for outside 2-3 oz for inside and 1.5 pig or fabric for the liner.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[MonicaJacobson]

Ha! Blackthorn is on this forum.

Your questions are all the hardest ones to answer, I'm afraid.

The pricking irons vs overstitching wheel and awl are personal preference. Whichever one you think you'll end up preferring.

As for thread, my favorite is Tiger thread, but you have to get it from Abbey England right now, which would cost about $45.00 + shipping for the size you want. You might try Maine Thread Company for other threads, but I don't have a conversion chart for the threads. In Tiger thread terms, you'll want .6mm or smaller.

Better yet, you could ask Blackthorn what his thread size is.

Edges are also each-to-his-own. You kind of work out what works for you. Sanding (with high grit sand paper) helps, and I'm currently using a mix of saddle soap and gum tragacanth.

Next much-discussed item -- groover. For thin leathers, a lot of people just use a compass to mark their line, rather than threaten the integrity of the leather by removing some.

Good luck!

[snubbyfan]

I prefer pricking irons myself. Since I usually work in heavier leathers, I give 'em a good whack, then finish the hole with a sharp, stropped, polished diamond stitching awl.

I don't often use a groover but when I do it's on 9 ounce otherwise I'll crease the stitch line or just mark it with dividers and off I go.

Edges, I'll sand, bevel, wet the edges with water, burnish and let dry, then gum trag. and burnish and let dry, sometimes gum trag. again, burnish again and let dry. Finally a coat or two of Tan Kote and burnish again.

[J W Craftsman]

Thanks for the replies so far. Any advice on needle/thread size? If like to place my order as soon as possible so I can get started. Thanks!

[tossik]

I use John James Saddlers Harness Needles #4 and they works great.Thread is also a personal preference, you wan make it thick or thin, what ever you like.

[J W Craftsman]

What size pricking irons and what size thread would be a good starting point?

[25b]

I use V92 bonded polyester at 10SPI with 004 John James needles on my Field Notes cases. Some will try to say that's too small, but I like the way it looks.