Stitches Ripping Leather

[brax71]

Greetings -- I'm a long time lurker, first time poster, new leatherworker...

Had a frustrating thing happen today: my hand-stitches seem to have caused the leather I was sewing to rip along the stitch-line. I used an Osborn 700 stitching iron (I believe that iron has 1/16" prongs and 3/32" spacing) and plain-old waxed thread. Leather was 4 thicknesses of 3-4 oz veg-tan (trying to make a holster and used a flesh-to-flesh lamination for the front and one for the back). I punched my holes all the way through and saddle stitched...

It really seems like the holes made "ticket" style perforations that simply tore across the joint. After my forensics on the joint, I found that some of my practice stitches in single layers of leather are exhibiting the same symptoms. How do I keep this from happening every time i try to sew a piece together?

Aarrgghh, Andy

[Northmount]

One of the things I have found in the small amount of hand stitching I've done is, don't pull the threads too tight. You can cut right through the leather. And another, longer stitches, and stay back from the edge a little more, which may not be applicable to your job.

Put up a couple pictures so the experts can see front, back, thickness, how far from the edge, and thread size.

Tom

Greetings -- I'm a long time lurker, first time poster, new leatherworker...

Had a frustrating thing happen today: my hand-stitches seem to have caused the leather I was sewing to rip along the stitch-line. I used an Osborn 700 stitching iron (I believe that iron has 1/16" prongs and 3/32" spacing) and plain-old waxed thread. Leather was 4 thicknesses of 3-4 oz veg-tan (trying to make a holster and used a flesh-to-flesh lamination for the front and one for the back). I punched my holes all the way through and saddle stitched...

It really seems like the holes made "ticket" style perforations that simply tore across the joint. After my forensics on the joint, I found that some of my practice stitches in single layers of leather are exhibiting the same symptoms. How do I keep this from happening every time i try to sew a piece together?

Aarrgghh, Andy

[brax71]

First time trying to post pics, so please be kind if I've sized them wrong. I put 2 stitch back-stitch at the starting end (left on the picture and it turned out a bit ugly -- still learning). Appreciate the suggestion to post pics -- sadly, I wouldn't have thought of that

Thanks,

Andy

Edited November 28, 2014 by brax71

[snubbyfan]

Wow, that's gotta be frustrating.

Looks like ya got a thonging chisel for lacing. A stitching chisel is angled, and diamond shaped.

Stitching holes should look like little angled diamonds.

Like northmount said, ya don't have to gorilla the threads tight, I just give 'em a quick tug.

[camano ridge]

I have to agree with snubby, you need to get a diamond awl or diamond punch. I usually stitch holsters 5-6 spi. When I am doing PC correct holsters I do 7 spi rarely 10 spi. I punch all my wholes with a diamond awl.

[Tramps Leatherworking]

I have used the Osborne 700 stitching chisel --- followed by a diamond awl --- for quite some time, and I have never had this issue... My guess is you are pulling the threads way too tight when you "snug" the stitches. I have used this stitching chisel and diamond awl to saddle stitch up to and including #415 beeswaxed nyltex thread.

[brax71]

Thanks all - I appreciate all of your recommendations. Today, I took the same piece of leather and tried to duplicate the problem -- I "think" those who said I was pulling too tight are probably correct. I tried every possible variation of how I might have struck the chisel; I thought i may have cut the fibers between holds when i was pulling the iron out. I could not get the problem to duplicate until I just went crazy folding the leather back and forth along the puch-line. I put the piece into my woodworking vise and still couldn't "ticket-tear" it by hand. Suspect I've narrowed it to the actual sewing process. Will re-stitch a similar piece either tonight or tomorrow to verify.

Thank you all again for your input!

Andy

[25b]

The tool you're trying to use is for edge lacing..not saddle stitching. You need a proper diamond punch, pricking iron, pricking wheel, etc. Not the one you're using.

[Tramps Leatherworking]

Andy,

Anytime, just ease up a little when you are pulling your threads tight, too much and they will cut right through... Good luck.

25b,

C.S. Osborne description- Stitching Chisel - No. 700 "This punch is designed for saddle stitching. Forged in one piece. Prongs 3/32" apart."

Like I said, It requires the use of a Diamond awl to open the holes properly, just like a pricking Iron...

Edited November 29, 2014 by Tramps Leatherworking

[25b]

Ok, well whatever then. The OP is the one having trouble with his stitches tearing. I don't have that problem and I use pricking irons...not whatever that thing is he's using. :)

[silverwingit]

Andy, no one asked about your leather. It looks OK in the picture but really dried out leather can be the root of the problem.

Another issue I see is your stitching technique. Properly done, saddle stitching should have a zig-zag appearance. This helps distribute the stresses along the stitch line. Your stitches lack this zig-zagging and are all in a straight line. This puts all the stresses on the seam right along that line where it tore.

My bet is that if you learn proper saddle stitching your tearing problem will disappear. You can start with Nige's superb instructional video:

Good luck and please tell us what you decide and how you fare.

Michelle

[electrathon]

Think of it this way, you can cut through cheese with a wire. You can cut through leather with thread. You were pulling too tight.

Also, the only issue using a different punch/chisel will creat is a different stitch pattern. A different angle on the punch will not magically cut leather where the punch did not cut.

[unicornleather]

Andy, no one asked about your leather. It looks OK in the picture but really dried out leather can be the root of the problem.

Another issue I see is your stitching technique. Properly done, saddle stitching should have a zig-zag appearance. This helps distribute the stresses along the stitch line. Your stitches lack this zig-zagging and are all in a straight line. This puts all the stresses on the seam right along that line where it tore.

My bet is that if you learn proper saddle stitching your tearing problem will disappear. You can start with Nige's superb instructional video:

Good luck and please tell us what you decide and how you fare.

Michelle

THIS^^

Get a pricking iron, it's the right tool for the job for hand stitching, don't pull up so tight when stitching and your leather is too dry and fibrous, try using a bridle butt instead of shoulder, it's more expensive but the fibres are a closer grain and you won't get such a fluffy fibrous leather.

Oz