Belt With Raised Center

[HonestTom]

I'm trying to make a dress belt with a raised center section, something like:

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF97011_1_40000000001_-1?style=97011

So I have three layers, a thick outer layer, a foam strip to raise the middle, and a thin layer of pigskin as a lining. If I glue these together, because of the relative stiffness, the lining leather bends around the foam rather than the outer layer.

Is there a way I can do something to the outer layer to make it bend appropriately?

Thanks!

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I don't know about dress belts, but in harness work, any raised work must be run through a raised roll creaser. This is a bench machine that has rolls that when a strap is run through it, gives it the raised profile. We then fill the raised section with a strip of leather to maintain the raise. Also, depending on the look we want, we might skive the edges of the strap, OR take some material out of the center of the strap running lengthwise, if that makes any sense. I believe it would be near impossible to do without the raising rolls. It's tricky enough to keep everything tacked up and in place until sewn when the work is properly prepared. I'm thinking the top layer on the belt may not be any heavier than the liner?

[HonestTom]

Thank you for the reply. Looking at the machine you describe, I can see how that would make the right creases. I will need to think if there's a way to make poor man's version of that, or just have my belts not have that sort of structure.

[Northmount]

You could look at methods of wet forming to "mold" the top layer, then fill the back with foam or a paste like material.

If you are into making any of your own jigs or tools, you could make a 2 part mold out of wood (or other convenient materials) long enough for the longest belt you are going to make. Moisten the leather, clamp it in place for an hour or two, then take it out and let it finish drying before you start working with it. The leather needs to be veg tan so it can be wet molded.

Tom

[papaw]

I agree with northmount on that.

[HonestTom]

That makes sense too, and I think it would be straightforward to put together. Thanks!

Out of curiosity, does the roller machine require wet veg tan as well, or will that crease chrome tan leather?

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I've only ever used harness or bridle leather in the creaser, but chrome tan just doesn't retain an impression very well. It may stretch the leather into the desired profile long enough to make it easier to fill and sew though. And depending on the leather, I don't even always wet the leather.

[Craftsman Made]

I use these rounding blocks when I make a belt or strap that needs a raised centre piece.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Craftsman Made, those are very interesting. Did you make them or are they an old tool that you acquired? I assume that before the advent of the manufacturing age in the late 1800's, raised work was created by a means other than the creasing machine that I referred to earlier. That is just what I pictured in my mind to exist before the invention of a creaser.

[Grizz1]

Tippmann industries have the double crease rolls listed under embossing accessories that might do the trick for ya !

[Craftsman Made]

Hi Big Sioux. Good to meet you the name's Peter by the way. I picked these up at an old tool stall at a street market many years ago for next to nothing and they work very well. I am pretty sure they are quite old they just have that feel and look to them and I think you are on the right tracks as there must have been something like these being used before machines came into it. I have had a much larger one made for me by the guy who made my cutting board which is also in the photo