Cobra 4-P Example Pic Of Back Tack And Reverse Stitch In Same Holes

[Allan1972]

Here is an example of my new cobra 4-p

-reverse three stitches to start(back tack)

-then forward 19 stitches in the same first three holes

-then reverse nine stitches in same holes

hope this is what some of you guys wanted to see…..

The brown thread was test sewing using the roller edge guide.

two 12 oz pieces of veg tan leather, 277 natural thread

top side of stitching

bottom side of stitching

I have done no adjustments to get the stitches in the same holes, just flicked the lever up.

Allan

[Colt W Knight]

Love that big thread. My little consew runs great, and saves me a ton of time. However, I am limited to 138 thread.

[Allan1972]

Love that big thread. My little consew runs great, and saves me a ton of time. However, I am limited to 138 thread.

I love the big thread too, the 346 stands out even more.

I just need to get the nerve to adjust the tension as the knots show on the back.

Right now it is set up to sew 277 thread perfectly and I just want to get used to sewing before I start messing with the tension.

I got 1/2 pound cones of black, white, brown and natural thread in 207, 277 and 346 plus the cone that came with the machine so I have a bit of thread to practice.

Allan

Edited December 10, 2014 by Allan1972

[BDAZ]

Would you mind sewing a single layer of 4-5 oz and see if you can get the knots centered with 207?

Thanks!

Bob

[Allan1972]

Would you mind sewing a single layer of 4-5 oz and see if you can get the knots centered with 207?

Thanks!

Bob

I have not tried the 207 thread yet, I will give it a shot and post results.

That stitch looks pretty good - including the backstitch. If they ALL came like that, there'd be no problem (I mean, who backstitches farther than that!). Sadly, not always the case. Thanks for showin' that, tho ..

I am new to this and don't know any better…..

I don't see why yours would not do the same, just a matter of figuring out how to set it up. Must be missing something, probably too expensive to pack the head up and ship it to Steve for a service. I would get on the phone and see if they could work you through it, you probably have done that and this is why you are frustrated

I am sure I will run into problems and will be frustrated at some point. I know a person who can set up sewing machines through my work, he owns the local sewing centre and services my tailors machines. I also am only 20 minutes from Leighton's and he sales and services the Mach3 441 clone. I am sure it would be cheaper to have these guys service rather than ship back to California.

Allan

[Wizcrafts]

A few months ago I replied to someone about getting the reverse stitches to line up with the forward ones on his walking foot machine. The simplest solution is to readjust the position of the inside foot so it hits the top layer just as or after the point of the needle hits it. I sometimes forget to change this foot timing on my CB4500 and when it is balanced for thin leather, the stitches don't always reverse into the same holes in thicker stacks.

There is another trick I learned to balance forward and reverse on 441 machines. If the reverse stitches are longer than forward, loosen the bottom screw on the stitch length/direction indicator plate. Unscrew the top screw and hold it so it remains in the hole in the plate. Pull back on the top of the plate to gain some clearance from the body. Slide a small washer over the end of the screw on the inside of the plate. Screw it back onto the body. This shortens just the reverse length setting and often corrects for inside shaft adjustments are aren't so easy to make.

[Allan1972]

Would you mind sewing a single layer of 4-5 oz and see if you can get the knots centered with 207?

Thanks!

Bob

I tried sewing lighter 4-5oz leather and was not able to get a good looking stitch, not that I know what I am doing…...

I did buy the machine knowing it is not for thiner than 6oz.

I also found it does not stitch well in reverse with the lighter leather, stitch length does not match. The machine seems to like thick leather and does the reverse better the thicker the leather. I guess it was intended for heavy work.

Allan

[Wizcrafts]

I tried sewing lighter 4-5oz leather and was not able to get a good looking stitch, not that I know what I am doing…...

I did buy the machine knowing it is not for thiner than 6oz.

I also found it does not stitch well in reverse with the lighter leather, stitch length does not match. The machine seems to like thick leather and does the reverse better the thicker the leather. I guess it was intended for heavy work.

Allan

I rethread with either #92 (#21 needle), or 138 (#23 needle) for such thin leathers. The tensions need to be reduced, as per my recent tips in the sticky topic called Tips for your 441 Sewing Machines (by Cobra Steve). Backing off the top pressure spring lets the thinner material move more easily.

You can adjust the inside foot to meet the top just with or after the needle to balance the F/R stitch lengths.

[Allan1972]

I rethread with either #92 (#21 needle), or 138 (#23 needle) for such thin leathers. The tensions need to be reduced, as per my recent tips in the sticky topic called Tips for your 441 Sewing Machines (by Cobra Steve). Backing off the top pressure spring lets the thinner material move more easily.

You can adjust the inside foot to meet the top just with or after the needle to balance the F/R stitch lengths.

Thanks for the info, right now I only have 207 as the smallest and I was using a #23 needle. I bought the machine to sew guitar straps and belts so really not too worried about the lighter weights, although the more I know about the machine the better.

At this point I am winding bobbins, threading the machine and basic sewing but have not messed with tension yet. It is sewing nice with 277(#25 needle) and I like that weight so I will leave it be for now.

Allan

[BDAZ]

I also make straps for open back banjos and those players prefer light, unlined leather so the ability to sew 5-6 oz is important to me. I did come up with one trick..I use black or brown in the bobbin and white in the needle. That way the knots are not noticeable just below the surface.You may find that useful.

Cya!

Bob

Edited December 10, 2014 by BDAZ

[Allan1972]

Okay, I'll post here, since I ran my mouth in this thread. If someone thinks it necessary, I'll start another thread in addition.

I received a call from "Cobra Steve" at my home. Steve said he was not aware I was having any issues, and would have seen to it that we were satisfied with our purchase had he known of the issues. He has offered to remedy the problems and assure our satisfaction.

If I have spoken out of turn, and LMC was not sufficiently aware of the problems I've described, then I apologize. Meanwhile, I look forward to the resolution, at which time I will be first to say that any complaints I may have had were remedied.

I'm sure you guys will figure it out, keep us posted on how things go……..

I only bought from Steve because he has a great reputation for customer service.

I have a guy 20 minutes from me but I did not get the best vibe, hence me buying from LMC 2500km away.

I have to say this was the first time I have heard anything negative about LMC.

Fingers are crossed for you…..

I deal with customers all the time and sometimes the best feeling is turning an unhappy customer into your best customer.

Allan

[BDAZ]

Just a follow up to my earlier post. After tweaking the bobbin spring (removing and bending) and loosing up the foot tension as suggested by Wiz, cutting two coils off the tension springs as suggested by Bob Kovar, I now am able to transition from 1 to 2 layers of 5oz. with a perfect stitch and no adjustments during the transition.

I just completed stitching 10 identical items and there was slight variations in the knot amongst the 10 due to differences in tanning and thickness.

I don't mean to hijack the thread (no pun intended)

Cya!

Bob