cleanview Report post Posted December 12, 2014 It has done this since the day I got it. But I can not figure it out for the life of me. As the "arm" comes down, there is slack in the line and it will wrap around the bar after the disk (as pictured). It will usually just act like tension is super tight and I look up and the thread will have wrapped around as pictured here. BUT When I use the little 138 thread it has started getting double wrapped around the pigtail between the bar and the arm and that actually locks it down (one time the needle got pulled out or it breaks thread) Obviously. I am new with a sewing machine, trying to refrain from typing "thingy" but hope I have described the problem. It just seems like that slack should not be there when the arm is on the down swing......but I just don't know. Oh! this picture was staged and not one of the actual mishaps. I guess that could be important. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted December 12, 2014 When you thread your machine do you wrap around the lower tension(one in pic) 1 & 1/2 times? Also the arm you thread through is called a takeup lever & you always want to make sure it is @ the top when you start & stop sewing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanview Report post Posted December 12, 2014 yes on the 1 1/2 times and I do make sure the take up arm is at top Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted December 12, 2014 Is the spring working, I had to adjust mine. The distance between the end of the screw and the nut on my machine is 5/32". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg From Keystone Sewing Report post Posted December 12, 2014 See image below, this is how Juki puts this thread take up stud with the bend on the end. I'm thinking this would prevent your upper thread from getting wrapped around this stud like you are showing.* *I'm not trying to knock any machine setup or sold by anyone, and I may have sold some Juki TSC-441 copies that have the same stud with no bend, not sure. Just trying to help and share here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanview Report post Posted December 12, 2014 The distance measure 1/4 inch....... I am really unclear as to what that particular nut adjusts. I have been told one thing and read another. From tests, it seem to affect the knot position, but still confused about that. I have done LOTS of adjusting to observe the changes that it makes in the sewing. the diagram does not ,make any sense to me since my machine is the only one I have seen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted December 12, 2014 Maybe your thread is twisty. This does happen from time to time. Twisty thread loops over posts and guides until it binds in something. Try this and see if it helps: Remove the top thread Go to the spool on the thread stand and let the thread hang loose If it coils hard, twist it in the opposite direction one or two turns. Feed the end through the nylon guide above the cone Feed the thread through the top hole in the top post in the top Make 1 turn toward the back Feed it through the bottom hole so it points to the left If you have a lube pot, feed through its holes, in and out Thread the rest of the way as per instructions with machine, or on YouTube Adding silicon thread lube to the lube pot also helps subdue twisty thread. All this may add to your top tension and bring the knots up too high. Compensate first by backing off the top tension adjuster, then the secondary adjuster. The last one to adjust is the bobbin tension, which should have a smooth pull at medium force, depending on the thickness and stiffness of the work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pcox Report post Posted December 12, 2014 I have had that problem with some kinky thread. I fixed it by extending the length of the pin with piece of heat shrink tubing about an inch long. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg From Keystone Sewing Report post Posted December 12, 2014 That would do it, too. Same as the bent back piece on the Juki, it just has to work, and that would help. Other models have a closed loop that I've seen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanview Report post Posted December 12, 2014 I will try and see if the thread is twisty or kinky as described Thanks for your comments Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanview Report post Posted December 13, 2014 3 things. 1. it does not seem to be "kinky" or "twisty" thread. 2. I may try to extend the bar. 3. I know get the juki illustration. Is is common as the take up lever moves up and down for there to be enough slack so that the thread can reach the bar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pcox Report post Posted December 13, 2014 yes . it has to have slack to let the thread go around the bobbin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
msdeluca Report post Posted December 13, 2014 Can you take pictures of the entire thread path? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg From Keystone Sewing Report post Posted December 16, 2014 Am I missing something here? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) Interesting. I went on a search for info on the CB 3200 and found a YouTube video by Jess Jones. He does not thread it correctly. Cowboy Bob, you might want to watch the video. The error comes just after 4:15. Or is the post a trade off for the eyelet? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3DSXBVBJkA The 3200 is a bit different to thread compared to the 4500 or the Cobra 4. The CB 4500 threads like the Cobra 4 except for the post with holes on top of the machine. I still think I can come up with 197 ways to thread the C4 and come up with like tension at the needle. I thread mine a bunch different than factory. Edited December 16, 2014 by Red Cent Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites