Members rawr66 Posted December 23, 2014 Members Report Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) Here's a video on the construction of a long wallet. It doesn't show the end and how it's put together and finished, but it gives you an idea of how to measure the fabric. I would assume it's finely stitched by hand or a sewing machine for the finished project. For the vertical wallet in your post I think the side stitched would do a fairly good job of keeping the fabric together along with some cement for the slots. Edited December 23, 2014 by rawr66 Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted December 23, 2014 Contributing Member Report Posted December 23, 2014 Chubby girl makes these -- this one in 1.5 oz kidskin. One layer, except where the id window is on top, and where it's folded (folded edge is middle of wallet). Every pocket stitched in. Looks great, and keeps a wallet thin. Still, takes a LONG time, requires a pretty small needle (this one in a machine with a #16 needle and 8 spi). Unless you are making ONE every so often, probably cost effective to just call the gals at SLC and order the chaylor interior (stick it and go). Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Muhammad Shamsuddoha Hayat Posted December 23, 2014 Members Report Posted December 23, 2014 I have made a lot of wallets with these slit pockets. It cuts down on thickness but takes quite a lot of work. Used only glues(in copious amount), never stitched them. I usually use porous polymer fabric as interior. Looks nice, cuts down on thickness and weight but a headache to get them right. Tried to use canvas as interior but the weight made the glue ineffective.The steps are quite simple, 1)Cut fabric for interior in such size as it covers the lowermost pocket along with the part above the lowermost slit. 2)Repeat (1) for the required number of pockets. 3) Stitch or glue the cut fabric by stacking them in such way that they form pockets that are equal in area but each 1-1.5cm(the difference depends on the separation of the slits) higher than the other. 4)Stitch or glue the entire set of pockets to the exterior. The extended part of each pocket should be glued or stitched to the parts above the slits. Pardon my English and my poor description of the process. Here's a sample with polymer as interior : Quote
Members DANDTON Posted December 24, 2014 Members Report Posted December 24, 2014 Can someone explain to me how this is done? I was wanting to do card slots like this for a wallet that I am making, but couldn't figure out, so I went on etsy to see if it was even possible and found a good example, but still can't figure it out. How do the cards in the higher slots not fall to the bottom? I am confused. Let me draw an instruction picture to show you..... Actually the fabric lining was glued on the flesh side of the front leather, and when you sew the lining's two sides, it forms a card back....I wish you can understand the instruction picture. You can use a whole piece of fabric or cut them into pieces, both are OK. Quote The patterns and tools gold mine www.lzpattern.com www.leathercraftpattern.com
Contributing Member Bob Blea Posted January 8, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted January 8, 2015 I've made a couple of roper wallets using the ribbon for pockets. I learned to make these in a Chan Geer class and it was opinion that the glue bond was strong enough on its own to hold the pockets in place. After reading the other comments in this thread I decide to put it to the test. I built a small test pocket using just glue to hold the ribbon in place. I took a piece of scrap and made a pocket with two credit card slots, then made the ribbon for the pocket and glued it in using Weldwood contact cement. I then folded the leather over and clamped it in place and let it dry overnight. I'm now in the process of repeatedly sliding a credit card into the lower slot to see how long it takes for it to break. When done properly Weldwood has a very strong bond to leather and I don't think the ribbon will pull away from the leather. I think the ribbon will wear out first but I don't know for certain. For my wear testing I assumed that a heavy user would might use their card three times a day, so I figured three insertions a day every day for a year would work out to about a 1000 cycles per year. That's probably easily twice what an actual user would do so it's probably a good stress test number. I would like it to at least last for ten years so I need it to make at least 10000 cycles to be acceptable, though I would prefer it goes twice that. Right now I've put it through almost 3000 insertions and so far no problems. I'll keep it up and let everyone know the results. Quote There are always possibilities.... Bob Blea C and B Leathercrafts Fort Collins, CO Visit my shop at http://www.etsy.com/shop/CandBLeather?ref=si_shop Instagram @bobbleacandbleather
Members zaynexpetty Posted January 10, 2015 Author Members Report Posted January 10, 2015 I have made a lot of wallets with these slit pockets. It cuts down on thickness but takes quite a lot of work. Used only glues(in copious amount), never stitched them. I usually use porous polymer fabric as interior. Looks nice, cuts down on thickness and weight but a headache to get them right. Tried to use canvas as interior but the weight made the glue ineffective.The steps are quite simple, 1)Cut fabric for interior in such size as it covers the lowermost pocket along with the part above the lowermost slit. 2)Repeat (1) for the required number of pockets. 3) Stitch or glue the cut fabric by stacking them in such way that they form pockets that are equal in area but each 1-1.5cm(the difference depends on the separation of the slits) higher than the other. 4)Stitch or glue the entire set of pockets to the exterior. The extended part of each pocket should be glued or stitched to the parts above the slits. Pardon my English and my poor description of the process. Here's a sample with polymer as interior : My solution to the glue was to sew the ribbon pocket in. Here's an example of what it looks like: Horween_Minimalist-2.jpg Lapis_Minimalist-2.jpg I have made a lot of wallets with these slit pockets. It cuts down on thickness but takes quite a lot of work. Used only glues(in copious amount), never stitched them. I usually use porous polymer fabric as interior. Looks nice, cuts down on thickness and weight but a headache to get them right. Tried to use canvas as interior but the weight made the glue ineffective.The steps are quite simple, 1)Cut fabric for interior in such size as it covers the lowermost pocket along with the part above the lowermost slit. 2)Repeat (1) for the required number of pockets. 3) Stitch or glue the cut fabric by stacking them in such way that they form pockets that are equal in area but each 1-1.5cm(the difference depends on the separation of the slits) higher than the other. 4)Stitch or glue the entire set of pockets to the exterior. The extended part of each pocket should be glued or stitched to the parts above the slits. Pardon my English and my poor description of the process. Here's a sample with polymer as interior : Let me draw an instruction picture to show you..... Actually the fabric lining was glued on the flesh side of the front leather, and when you sew the lining's two sides, it forms a card back....I wish you can understand the instruction picture. You can use a whole piece of fabric or cut them into pieces, both are OK. I've made a couple of roper wallets using the ribbon for pockets. I learned to make these in a Chan Geer class and it was opinion that the glue bond was strong enough on its own to hold the pockets in place. After reading the other comments in this thread I decide to put it to the test. I built a small test pocket using just glue to hold the ribbon in place. image.jpg I took a piece of scrap and made a pocket with two credit card slots, then made the ribbon for the pocket and glued it in using Weldwood contact cement. image.jpg I then folded the leather over and clamped it in place and let it dry overnight. image.jpg I'm now in the process of repeatedly sliding a credit card into the lower slot to see how long it takes for it to break. When done properly Weldwood has a very strong bond to leather and I don't think the ribbon will pull away from the leather. I think the ribbon will wear out first but I don't know for certain. For my wear testing I assumed that a heavy user would might use their card three times a day, so I figured three insertions a day every day for a year would work out to about a 1000 cycles per year. That's probably easily twice what an actual user would do so it's probably a good stress test number. I would like it to at least last for ten years so I need it to make at least 10000 cycles to be acceptable, though I would prefer it goes twice that. Right now I've put it through almost 3000 insertions and so far no problems. I'll keep it up and let everyone know the results. Thank you all for your responses opinions!!! Bob, I think you have figured it out, and your testing method/formula seems promising. I think I may have to try the ribbon/glue technique out. Although I do like the idea of stitching reinforcing the ribbon/fabric pockets, I do think that it makes it look less appealing aesthetically. I like to make my items with as little stitching as possible, as I think that too much can easily complicate a sleek, minimal design. The only problem I can see myself having is that I use weld woods green contact cement, which might not hold up as well as the original weldwood, but I will test it out and let you know! Thanks! Zayne Quote
Contributing Member Bob Blea Posted January 21, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted January 21, 2015 Just an update for everyone. I have tested my pocket through just over 6000 credit card insertions and so far it looks good. I can see a little wear in the pocket lining but no signs the lining is detaching from the leather. I will post more once I have more wear on it. Quote There are always possibilities.... Bob Blea C and B Leathercrafts Fort Collins, CO Visit my shop at http://www.etsy.com/shop/CandBLeather?ref=si_shop Instagram @bobbleacandbleather
NVLeatherWorx Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks for the update Bob. I would say, that unless someone is an EXTREME shopaholic (and that would have to be really extreme) that you have just tested the stress of the pocket lining to a level that I don't think many people would achieve in a lifetime. Then again, there is always that one that has to push the limit of what extreme really is. Would be interesting to see where it stands at 10,000 "uses" though. Quote Richard Hardie R. P. Hardie Leather Co. R. P. Hardie Leather Co. - OnlineR. P. Hardie Leather Co on Facebook
Members DoubleC Posted January 21, 2015 Members Report Posted January 21, 2015 I enjoyed reading this because I hate to make wallet interiors. However, right here in the pinned tutorials at the top is a Kevin King tutorial on making a wallet and he covers the glued backs. Although I think he uses some kind of special card stock. Cheryl Quote http://www.etsy.com/shop/DoubleCCowgirl
Members RavenAus Posted January 22, 2015 Members Report Posted January 22, 2015 Knocked this up as an exercise, trying to work out the phone holder. Still not happy with that side but the card slots work great Wide ribbon pockets and slots, not too hard to make, everything works fine Quote Kind regards, Raven http://wolfscrafts.com/
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