29K1 Pre Christmas Barn Find :-)

[Constabulary]

@ Raven

Yes - thats the one!

I just compared the parts and they are quite identical as far as I can tell. The only significant difference is that the feeding motion ring "thing" oft he 29K1 has curved angles where the bar meets the ring and the 29K71 is perfect 90° angled.

Till try to install the two 29K1 parts in my 29K71 ans will see what is happening.

Edited December 26, 2014 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

Most parts are clean now just some screw still need some TLC and I have not taken the gearbox apart.

@ Raven

College Sewing is closed until January 2nd - just for the case you will place an order.

[RavenAus]

How much do you actually have to disassemble to get the bell crank lever out? I'd prefer not to have to take the head off if I can avoid it - actually, I'd prefer not to dismantle mine at all lol but the stitch length does need fixing!

[Cascabel]

Is this "Bell Crank Lever" the same part that causes loss of stitch length in a 29-4 when worn ? Judging by the photos of the worn one, and the photo of the new one in the College Sewing site, I believe I could repair mine fairly easily if it is similar. I could probably easily build it back up with steel using TIG welding, and re-shape if it is similar. I have not yet disassembled my machine, so I don't know if it is made the same or not. Or is the 29-4 a completely different can of worms ? Mine is still quite usable as is for now, but I may make it a future project.

[Constabulary]

@ Raven

I have never tried to remove anything from a mounted head. I´m not sure but I think you cannot remove the bell crank lever w/o taking off the head and the needle bar. The head is just mounted with 4 screws and you have to remove the pin the needle bar is mounted to the long skeleton lever with - thats it. And a thorough cleaning and oiling may improve the performance.

To remove the bell crank lever from the head you have to take off just 4 small screws. 2 that mounts the revolving handle to the revolving bushing and 2 small hinge screws that hold the bell crank lever on the revolving lever.

But I honestly think it is the better idea to take the head off and even disassemble, clean and oil it.

It looks like a lot of parts but it really is not a big task I´d say. You of course have to be a bit patients but its worth it.

The 29K is such a simple machine, there is not much you can do wrong!

@ cascabel

I´m sure it is the same - the difference between the 29K1 and 29K4 is that the 29K4 is for "waxed thread" so I think it just has the oil cup mounted and it has a side wheel. Welding the bell crank lever will do the job I think - question is how much material you need but you`ll figure it out.

Edited December 27, 2014 by Constabulary

[Cascabel]

@ cascabel

I´m sure it is the same - the difference between the 29K1 and 29K4 is that the 29K4 is for "waxed thread" so I think it just has the oil cup mounted and it has a side wheel. Welding the bell crank lever will do the job I think - question is how much material you need but you`ll figure it out.

I don't know when I will get time to play around with the project, but I will post pics when I do. I think I can judge size and shape fairly well from the photo of the new one, and then do a bit of careful hand fitting and polishing. I can always add a bit more metal if I need to. My equipment allows me to add very small amounts of metal at a time, without causing destruction of the part. I'm used to repairing non-available gun and machinery parts in this fashion. Is this the main thing that causes loss of stitch length ?

[Constabulary]

@cascabel

It´s nice to have these opportunities! As far as I know the bell crank lever and the motion ring have an effect on the stitch length. Maybe the cam and the roller on the motion ring bar have an effect as well but I´m not sure.

Just finished painting some parts and started reassembling.

[Constabulary]

in an other thread I found a nice idea for derusting - electrolysis! Don´t want to make a lot of words - here is the thread the idea came from: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=60600#entry391099

And there are a lot of videos on youtube

I had top and bottom housing in the electrolysis bath for about 20hrs. The rust is gone and as a side effect it even has removed the paint or it rather crinkled the paint and I was able to remove it with a wire brush w/o much effort. The bottom parts of the housing still is in the electrolysis bath. Only problem (well not really a problem) is that is immediately starts to build some surface rust but thats no big issue and quite normal.

Some pictures:

Edited December 28, 2014 by Constabulary

[shoepatcher]

Constabulary,

I notice that the foot lift lever is the old style on yours? Let me know how it works. I would have thought the foot lift lever would look like one on. a 29-4.

Most all the parts on a 29K1 will fit the 29K4, for your info. I think your machine has the newer bobbin winder on it as well.

glenn

[Constabulary]

Thats what I noticed when I disassembled it - the foot lift lever is lifting the foot when you push down the lever! Just the other way around as on other machines. It is sewing but how the hell can you time the machine? It has no eccentric.