MorningStarL Report post Posted February 12, 2015 This is the first sheath I've made in full since joining. So my stitching holes are made with an awl, and I use hidepounder's edge technique, and I read a lot about finishes. I have an almost half-full bottle of the old formulation of Super Sheen, which I haven't used before and prolly won't again cuz it's too shiny and looks like vinyl instead of leather. I tried using neutral shoe polish over it to dull it down, but it didn't work. Largely, I'm pleased with this. The stitching holes didn't go through straight though, and the B-side is wobbly. The stamping is more ornate than I like or usually do, but I completely misjudged how much room I needed for a pair of leaves, one of my new favourite stitch-line trims. It doesn't have a belt loop because the woman who's getting it doesn't wear belts and wants a knife to carry in pocket or purse. Can't think of anything else, but if you have any suggestions for improvement for next time (I got a lot of good ones on the stitch line on the reverse side on the another forum here already), please give them! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stu925 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 I've had that same issue with stitching and it's pretty easily remedied. I bought a craftool diamond hole chisel set from Tandy ((3309-00 if you're interested). It comes with 1 handle and 10 different chisel heads that thread onto the handle. Works great for keeping those stitches straight. You'll have an issue with thick leather like the edge of that sheath where there's a welt but if you start the holes with the chisels and then finish with a diamond awl it should help a lot. I like the look of that sheath and once your stitching issues are fixed it'll look really nice. Stu Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MorningStarL Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks, Stu. I got some help from some of the guys about the stitching holes. I'm using an awl. I have a worse time of it near the open end of the ssheath and I think that's because it is open. I've skived the welt down to nothing at the bottom and it's pretty solid -- but at the top that big open space is hard to hold steady. It's the sheath that shifts a little, not the awl. I think if I start using a pony it'll hold the whole thing tight enough together that the learther won't distort under the pressure of the awl. (I hope.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eddie1968 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Looks pretty good. I remember handstitching sheaths/scabbards in the past. The backside would always give me trouble too. I ended up using a drill press to make holes. If you use a stitch groover you can make a very nice sewing line front and back. I also noticed your leather is very thick on the edge. you could skive it down a bit and it might be a little easier. Other than that i can only suggest a sewing machine!! lol. This was done with a drill press for the holes and hand stitched. Hope this helps. Eddie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MorningStarL Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Thanks, Eddie. I had the awl chucked into the drill press, not turning it on, and pressed it through. It's 9-10 ounce vegtan, and what it does do is hold the knife perfectly without a strap. That was important because it's going in a purse or pocket and not on a belt. Boy! That's elegant, Eddie. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrampaJoel Report post Posted February 13, 2015 When not using a machine to stitch, I have a little trick that helps me keep my stitches matching on both ides. I cut a stitch groove on both sides. Then I use a stitch wheel to roll in my stitching spots on the top side of the project. I then take my awl and push through to the grove on the back side, being very careful to keep the awl perpendicular to the work. Or as close as I can. Once I have a first hole on the front and back side, I put the stitch wheel on the back side, and line up one of the stitch wheel notches with the hole I pushed through from the front. I roll out the stitch wheel and I get pretty evenly matched stitch marks with the front. Then all you do is stitch matching holes and it should turn out darn evenly matched. This works for me on everything from saddles to cell phone cases. It's just a method I use. You milage may vary. Joel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MorningStarL Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Thanks, Joel. I'm going to try that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites