Recommended Drive Punches...and How To Sharpen Them?

[SantaFeMarie]

I have a bundle of drive punches from Tandy. I'm not impressed. They don't always cut after one blow, and they often need coaxing to get back out of the piece. I've have a project coming up that needs a LOT of 1/8" or slightly larger holes, so I'm thinking that before I start I will either invest in a set of higher quality, and/or attempt to sharpen. Does anyone have any recommendations they'd like to make regarding quality brands, and sharpening instructions?

[camano ridge]

Almost all tools from Tandy that have an edge for cutting need sharpening out of the box. Try sharpening the edges a little. Punching through the leather with just one hit will depend on thickness of the leather and the leather it's self, not necessarily the tool. I rub the out side of the punches with a little paraffin wax this helps when you with draw them from the leather.

[SantaFeMarie]

How do you sharpen them?

[byggyns]

1. use a medium to fine grit sharpening stone
2. hold it so the angle of the stone on the tool matches the existing angle of the edge
3. push the tool across the stone maintaining the same angle the entire time- you do not have to press hard, the tool should slide with a little resistance
4. rotate the tool slightly to an area you have not yet sharpened
5. repeat steps 3 & 4 until you have fully rotated the tool to the place you started
6. dress the inside of the punch hole with a tapered sharpening rod- lightly push the rod into the tool, rotate, repeat (some people do not do this step, but I find it helps remove any burr on the interior of the hole) here is a link to the tool I use
7. strop the outer edge by pulling across the strop- maintain the same angle you did while sharpening, rotate, repeat

You always push a cutting edge into the stone or rod when sharpening. A back & forth or circular motion is for grinding away large amounts of material- like changing the angle of the edge or removing a nick in the edge. You always pull the tool away from the cutting edge when you strop. Maintaining the correct angle is critical. The stone should also be lubricated: oil or water depending on if you are using an oil stone or a wet stone. The diamond sharpeners typically do not require lubrication.

I hope this is clear enough to follow. I don't know your overall experience level with tool sharpening, so some things I may take for granted, and others I may be explaining at too basic of a level. Let me know if you need any clarification.

Edited February 27, 2015 by byggyns

[terrymac]

For larger sized punches, I use my Dremel with a cone shaped grinding stone and lightly insert into the drive punch. For smaller, Barry King sells round, tapered diamond stone that works well. The strop as explained above.

Hope this helps,

Terry

[byggyns]

For larger sized punches, I use my Dremel with a cone shaped grinding stone and lightly insert into the drive punch. For smaller, Barry King sells round, tapered diamond stone that works well. The strop as explained above.

Hope this helps,

Terry

So, you only dress the internal edge, not the tapered edge aroud the outside?

I don't know if I've ever talked to anyone who does it that way.

[Northmount]

So, you only dress the internal edge, not the tapered edge aroud the outside?

I don't know if I've ever talked to anyone who does it that way.

You want to keep the inside as a straight tube so the punch outs can move through without jamming. So the inside is only dressed lightly to remove any bur from sharpening. And of course helps make the edge sharper.

Tom