Members chriscraft Posted March 6, 2015 Members Report Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) I know the typical or preferred method to transfer patterns onto leather is using a stylus and a sheet of your favorite thin clear plastic/mylar stuff. That's what I am currently using and its been the most cost efficient way. I was wondering if anyone here uses a projector to transfer your image/line drawing directly on leather to be tooled. When I used to have an airbrush shop, we used to project muscle cars at car shows directly on the t-shirts and trace the image with a light marking pencil. Then we would add color with the airbrush and be done with it. It was a faster way to get the job done vs. taking 30+ minutes just to hand draw the image. By using a projector, this saved us time and we were able to make more cash by having a faster turn around on site. I still have my Artograph Super Prism Opaque projector stored away and I am thinking this might be an easier way to layout the transferred image/drawing onto leather as it allows you to instantly size the drawing to the project on hand. Even If the image is already actual size (less than 7 inches) you can still project it the correct size. I'm no longer airbrushing and working with larger than life wall murals but I know these projectors were also used by illustrators mounted on drafting tables that had average work no larger than 11"x14". What I like about this, one can project actual photographs of your previous work and scale it to size on the new project. Just need to dig up my projector and get a table top vertical stand for it. All I ever had was the horizontal stand for my projector. I recall my projector came with the table top reduction lens and this lens remained new in the box. Edited March 6, 2015 by chriscraft Quote
Members Jim Posted March 6, 2015 Members Report Posted March 6, 2015 Wow, talk about a blast from the past! When I was in school they had one of those and it was a high tech gadget at the time. Well, it was 1973 whend I used it to scale up a drawing I made for a P-39 Airacobra so I could make a flying model with balsa wood. By golly, it worked like a charm. You might be on to something. Jim Quote Never forget where you are, so you will always remember where you've been.
Members billybopp Posted March 6, 2015 Members Report Posted March 6, 2015 I haven't used one in ages, but with the correct lenses and setup, there's no reason why it would not work. For that matter, a computer video projector would do much the same thing using computer images .. again, given the right lenses and setup! Great idea. Bill Quote
Members chriscraft Posted March 6, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) Like mentioned, Opaque color projectors is not new technology and has been around for sometime. Those new HD digital art projectors made for artwork would be ideal if I didn't already own my Super Prism projector. I purchased mine new back when they were introduced almost 20 years ago. It still holds its value and has not come down in price. Those New HD LED artist digital projectors come with a hefty $1000+ price tag but just imaging what one can do with these new gadgets. One could store all your paterns in your PC and with the click of a tab, be ready to transfer your image. For now I'm still stuck in the 1990's with my now old model color projector. I'm fabricating a heavy duty overhead bracket that will be mounted over my work table to mount my projector. It will retract when not in use. I will post some pics when its done. Edited March 6, 2015 by chriscraft Quote
Members chriscraft Posted March 6, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) One of the reasons I thought of this was due to my images not being as crisp after being transferred using the thin clear sheet. One could argue that I'm not using the correct Al Stohlman method and maybe the wrong stylus tool. Your still applying pressure with your stylus through a thin sheet that is spreading that pressure over a wider area (clear sheet). It works but could be improved on.Also, when re using the same clear transfer sheet to apply the same pattern on another project. It's hard to tell if you already went over the line that already has a crease from the last use.My test: I have been getting great results when I freehand my design with only the stylus. It leaves a clean crisp line that I now can follow with the swivel knife and not be confused if its a line to be cut or a natural mark on the leather.I have a strong feeling using an overhead mounted color projector for leatherwork will work great. I've used one for many years on other projects with great results. To check your work and see if all the lines were transferred you just turn off the projector and see your transferred image. If you missed a line, just turn it back on and trace that line. All without moving your work. Edited March 6, 2015 by chriscraft Quote
Members billybopp Posted March 6, 2015 Members Report Posted March 6, 2015 Chriscraft .. You realize, of course, that this now means that you will need to post a series of pictures of the entire process from initial artwork through projection and transfer to completed item. Right? Bill Quote
Members chriscraft Posted March 7, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2015 SO I dug up my projector that had been sitting dormant for some time. From all the years of use and transporting it to various jobs, I managed to loose a few clips and parts. They still make this same model and I was able to order the missing parts directly from the company so I will get them in the mail soon. My work space is located in the basement of my home. I have exposed overhead rafters to secure the mounting plate I will be making. Instead of fabricating a new telescoping bracket for this project, I am using one that I already have that has good pivot arms. The .250 aluminum plate pictured will used to mount the projector on, this aluminum plate will then be bolted to the telescoping bracket. The line drawing isn't to scale but represents the mounting bracket and work table. I have already mocked up and projected a few images and this telescoping height will be a good distance for the size lens I have. I can reduce a photo image down to 1 inch and enlarge it up to 16 inches. This will be a good working size for my current leatherwork. If I need to enlarge an image greater than this size, I can always move the work table and use the floor to enlarge my image up to 42". Quote
Members chriscraft Posted March 7, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2015 Wow, talk about speedy service. I ordered my projector parts Thursday afternoon and they arrived today. After installing my few missing parts my Super Prism projector is as good as new. A quick test run shows this Tandy catalog small photo insert of a stamped belt. The photo image of this belt is 3/4" wide and I was able to enlarge it to scale on this 1 3/4" belt blank. The picture looks grainy from the dark photo but the enlarged projected image is clear and can now be easily transferred with a stylus directly on the leather project. One would need to use images or pattern designs that are flat. Pictures taken from directly above the item so the image is not skewed and is projected square on your leather project. Quote
Members Chef niloc Posted March 8, 2015 Members Report Posted March 8, 2015 I bought one about 20 years ago when an art school still have it but if I've used it a dozen times that would be a generous statement. I have always found it to be most effective at transferring a photograph, kind of like an aid to making a sketch or a under painting. It's also great if you want to scale an image, especially if you want to project a smaller image onto a larger one bigger than your computer printer can handle. I think the tool would work fine my holdup is that taking things like that out of the closet setting them up to use always seems to be more trouble than it's worth, maybe I'm just a little lazy?Two thing I've done for transferring patterns that you might find useful for creating a finer line? 1: I trace over the backside of the transfer sheet (I used to use very thin paper here) with a "red copy pencil" also called a "indelible pencil". These types of pencil turn into an ink mark when they get wet, I use red because it basically disappears and blends into the leather after carving or stamping, finishing ext.. I then place the paper on top of a damp piece of leather and simply rub the top side with a damp sponge, it's kind of like transferring a tattoo, that's where I got the idea from.2) very similar to the first method but this time I use Thin velum paper as it's somewhat waterproof and easier to trace/draw on then plastic transparency mylar sheets...and it's thinner thus avoiding as much of the widening of the transfer pattern when using the stylus tool. I still dampen the leather and then press the transfer sheet to it, avoiding air bubbles if possible. To trace over the top side I use a sharp pencil or Barry kings " small long stylus" The lighter you press the center your transfer lines will be with either of these methods. Quote
Members chriscraft Posted March 8, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 8, 2015 I agree that with these tools, it's a small chore to set them up when needed. That's the reason I am building a permanent station and this projector tool will always be ready to go as needed. I understand some tools are not intended for everyday use or every project. My current shop is located in my basement so it can get very dark with out lights, great for being used as a dark room. Ever since I've been drawing, I have always found that having more than one way to get something done has worked well for me. Having to just rely on simply one way might get me in a bind if that method would ever fail. I will also try out using velum, onion leaf and other papers you mentioned as I already have access to these that are stored away in my drafting cabinet. I made a quick test run using the photo projector on a scrap piece of veg tan leather. Used an image from a beer label to show how quickly one can set this up. Quote
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