Dye Rubbing Off

[MorningStarL]

I've added a couple of pictures of sheaths I really did shed some blood, sweat and tears working on yesterday. All y'all have been so good with advice -- I think these, especially the wider skinner sheath, have some of the best work I've done.

Once I'd stitched and done the edge-burnishing, I swabbed on a good coat of Fiebring's USMC Black leather dye. I let it dry and then rubbed off the powdery residue. (I only get that with the USMC Black and not with brown dyes.) Then another coat of the black dye, and left them hanging overnight, well over 12 hours.

Today I rubbed the paraffin into the edges and buffed that. I'm trying different finishes. I don't like the SuperSheen -- makes my leather look like plastic. I have Eco-Flo matte and satin finishes, and they've left streaks on sheaths before. I prefer a lower-gloss finish. Today I tried mink oil that was in the shop from someone else's work. Rubbed it on, let it dry for a couple of hours, rubbed the surface then put it on the buffing wheel, and that's when the black dye started coming off the leather. You can see the patchiness here in the pictures.

So -- now what? My partner thought maybe the mink oil acted as a solvent on the dye, but the dye was dry. I know the thread I used yesterday was more heavily waxed than usual and I'm wondering if I transferred some by my fingers and made a resist -- but it didn't show up til I buffed the finish. I'm thinking of trying the homemade finish - got beeswax and vegetable oil to melt it into. The one I saw has vodka in and there's good reason not to keep drinkin' liquor around here -- I'm going to see what I can find about using rubbing alcohol instead.

[leatherwytch]

I like super shene but then I like shiny. Have you tried Satin shene? Use the spray and save yourself problems. I don't use mink oil because it will take the finish off. I also don't use fieblings. I prefer the water stains, and pro dyes. All dyes and stains will come off a tad but not a lot. Do not use rubbing alcohol.

[MorningStarL]

Thanks. I sometimes go very shiny, if I'm building a sheath for someone's uncle's knife he carried and was shipwrecked with three times in WWII, for example. It seems to fit. (I really did one for that kind of knife.) I'll look at Satin Shene. Thanks!

[wlg190861]

I have great success with resolene 40/60water to seal the leather after dye dries, about five coats. Never use mink oil, it's bad for leather. The best conditioner I have found is Aussie.

[TwinOaks]

I think the problem here is that 'mink oil' is not a sealer, it's just a conditioner with hydrophobic properties. You can condition the leather, but you still need to seal it afterwards with one of the -sheen products, resolene, or a lacquer finish.

[wlg190861]

I have great success with resolene 40/60water to seal the leather after dye dries, about five coats. Never use mink oil, it's bad for leather. The best conditioner I have found is Aussie.

By the way buff by hand with soft cloth, buffing wheel creates to much heat and will ruin your finish

[terrypen]

I've heard that the black dyes are all like that and need more buffing than the other colors.

I just took a small piece of leather and marked lines on it and labeled them for different finishes and number of coats.

I tested Resolene, Resolene diluted, Tan Kote, and Tan Kote diluted with water. This started out as a test for a resist for lettering, but you could do the same for using them as a finish.

I really don't like Resolene, pure Tan Kote is really shiny especially after 2 or 3 coats. The diluted Tan Kote left me with the lightest color. I will probably have to do this again to verify my findings.

Does anyone else have any test strips they have done with finishes? Would be interesting to see.

[JREESER1]

I have only had any luck at all with the Fiebring USMC Black by dip-dying. I put enough dye in a plastic storage container of the appropriate size to coat the piece as I dredge it like putting egg batter on a drum stick. Let it dry thoroughly, at least 24 hours, then buff it like crazy at least 3 times. Then put the finish you wish and buff some more. Mine have turned out very well with no rub off.

jr

Edited April 4, 2015 by JREESER1

[Dwight]

Very simply, . . . black USMC ruboff is created by lack of serious buffing.

I can buff off a belt, . . . and a pancake holster, . . . wear em all day, . . . zero rub off, . . . but only because I am serious about buffing.

Also, . . . dilute the USMC dye 50/50 with Feibings thinner. It will still dye as dark, . . . but will only have about 1/3 of the surface pigment to buff off. And give up the dauber dyeing, . . . dip dye it, . . . use a 9 x 13 cake pan.

My favorite USMC finish is made of 50/50 (by weight), . . . virgin bees wax and neatsfoot oil, . . . heated and stirred, . . . then allowed to solidify. I use cupcake wrappers in a cupcake pan, . . . the product goes on like paste shoe polish, . . . use a low setting heat gun or hair dryer to melt it into the leather, . . . let it dry overnight, . . . buff the next day. It will take at least a couple of coats, . . . but I love the finish, . . . it is an "old fashioned" finish that can be turned almost as glossy as you are willing to work it up to.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited April 4, 2015 by Dwight

[MorningStarL]

Thanks, everyone. I'll ditch the mink oil. I thought it would do what I wanted because the tin says it is a sealer and has silicone in as well as lanolin and the mink oil. I'll try dip-dying when I use the USMC black. Small operation here and I never buy more than a quart - it's half gone now - so I've never dipped them. It would make some of the little crevices from sewing on the belt loops easier, for sure.

I'd still like to find something that isn't glossy for the finish coat. Just going to keep on trying.