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Posted

Thanks Eric,

If I can't find someone locally then I'll do that, shipping from Canada is stupidly expensive so it would probably run me around $500-$600 unless I'm willing to wait 6 months for it to get there.

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Posted

Venator;

There are several industrial sewing machine dealers in Toronto, most of whom know Adler machines inside out. Techsew is a division of Raphael Sewing in Montreal and is one of our advertisers.

However, I think you should return to the check spring assembly and try again to loosen up the sliding stop bracket on the bottom that acts as a spring travel stopper. Most machines that have that type of check assembly secure the movable stop bracket with a screw on the lower right side. This is separate from the screw that secures the entire assembly to the hole in the body of the machine. That screw lets you turn the assembly, which either loosens or tightens the action on the check spring. You will probably want to tighten it to get the full amount of travel, as limited by the stop bracket under the spring.

Where did you buy your Adler? Have you tried contacting the seller for help?

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

Venator;

There are several industrial sewing machine dealers in Toronto, most of whom know Adler machines inside out. Techsew is a division of Raphael Sewing in Montreal and is one of our advertisers.

However, I think you should return to the check spring assembly and try again to loosen up the sliding stop bracket on the bottom that acts as a spring travel stopper. Most machines that have that type of check assembly secure the movable stop bracket with a screw on the lower right side. This is separate from the screw that secures the entire assembly to the hole in the body of the machine. That screw lets you turn the assembly, which either loosens or tightens the action on the check spring. You will probably want to tighten it to get the full amount of travel, as limited by the stop bracket under the spring.

Where did you buy your Adler? Have you tried contacting the seller for help?

I looked at the stop but there's no screw to loosen or adjust it, I took the whole assembly apart but even with pliers I wasn't able to move the stop in any way so I think unless someone has a better idea it's staying where it is.

I bought it from Nick-O-Sew and I don't really see any point in calling them since they're in Tennessee and I'm in Alberta and there's no way I'm going to waste $1000 or more shipping it back to them for repair, I'm sure they'll just say "it worked fine when it shipped so it's your problem now" like every other retailer in the world does, and they wouldn't be wrong.

Slight update, I've managed to get it sewing without breaking except when i try to sew through dyed vegetan. . . weird huh? undyed it'll rock but dyed vegetan and snappy snap snap. Unfortuantely the products I sell are dyed vegetan so that's not really helping me.

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Posted

I lied turns out I just got lucky a few times and it didn't break, it breaks much more easily on the dyed leather though.

I can tell you that the thread breaks right as the upstroke on the needle begins.

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Posted

I don't think you should be putting words in their mouths.

Please don't misunderstand, I haven't spoken with them and I'm certainly not in any way attempting to speak poorly of them. I simply don't see what someone who's thousands of miles away can do over the phone that won't cost me an arm and a leg. In my experience the further a seller is from you geographically and particularly different countries the less they're able to support their product. This is not their fault and I don't mean to sound like I'm blaming them as I'm sure that somehow this is something I did (god knows what but it must be).

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Posted (edited)

Leightons.ca is in delburne outside red deer and they sell and fix leather industrial machines new and used. They would also know a local guy who does house calls. There is also mason sewing in Edmonton.

Edited by TinkerTailor

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

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Posted

I'll call tomorrow. Though I don't know if it's worth it though given that I work 7 days a week right now and the machine will be moving to Toronto at the end of May hopefully.

Posted (edited)

Your problem may have to do with the needle as well.

Your thread appears to "break" right after you reverse. I noticed that when I use leather tri-point needles, the needle will sometimes actually cut the thread in a previously stitched hole if I reverse the stitch. The leather point needle tips are like little knives and they cut leather (and thread) quite easily. Your thread may be cut instead of break when reversing, or the thread may be cut partially and then break when it's pulled tight in the upward stroke.

Personally, I no longer use reverse when I stitch thick leather with a tri-point or similar knife-edged needle. I just finish the seam by hand, which is a little more manual work, but to me it looks cleaner and is less frustrating than messing up an otherwise fine seam on the second to last stitch.

I'd try sewing with a different needle (regular point, not a knife-edge needle) and see if the thread still breaks upon reversing.

If your thread also breaks when stitching forward into new holes, the problem is not the needle. Try to eliminate a few possible causes.

Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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