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Posted

The thread seems to break most in reverse but it also breaks going forward, not quite as often but it still happens unfortunately.

The spring is travelling as much as the stopper allows and no matter what I've tried I cannot seem to move the stopper to allow more travel so I think that's a set item.

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Posted

For remote, internet based debugging, try find a friend with an iPhone 6 and try to take a close-up video like mine at https://youtu.be/Dg12IXhcqkU (2:40 mark) to show what's going on inside when you're stitching and the thread is breaking. A real close-up video snippet with that kind of angle, resolution, good lighting, focus (even better in super slow motion) of the thread breaking would go a long way toward figuring out what's going wrong, without schlepping the machine around. Just an idea.

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted

If as you said your moving when summers over in May to Toronto then there might be some download manuals on the net to help reference a bit.

There is always great responses on the site here but this fast? and the top dogs? nice!

Is the same size thread used now as in the setup and run/off when you picked up or got the machine.

Good Day there

Posted

For local repair options, check with your Central Sewing Machines Store in Edmonton. Any reputable sewing machine store will have access to repair people to fix machines. No need to move the entire table around, they just need (or rather, want) the machine head. The repair person will drop the machine head into their own table for testing and repair.

Your machine may have arrived on a pallet, all assembled. Most industrial machine heads can be lifted out of the table after tilting it back and disconnecting the drive belt. The head itself will be quite heavy but manageable - no need for a truck, just a trunk. I have a handy little folding cart to move my machine heads around when needed. Your machine head will be bigger, but not dramatically.

post-56402-0-04299400-1428954248_thumb.j

(http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Cart-Flatform-300-Capacity/dp/B002TITK8O).

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted (edited)

You can download manuals and parts lists for your machine from Durkopp Adler here:

http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/Support/downloads/index.html?action=search&prop0=%2Fcommons%2Fdownload%2Fpublic%2F467-180%2F&prop1=

Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted

I have the manuals, unfortunately the don't seem to be helping with this.

I've called central sewing, I have to have someone come out apparently so that's going to be a few hundred $$ they said. Probably for 10 min work but I guess I have to pay.

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Posted

For remote, internet based debugging, try find a friend with an iPhone 6 and try to take a close-up video like mine at https://youtu.be/Dg12IXhcqkU (2:40 mark) to show what's going on inside when you're stitching and the thread is breaking. A real close-up video snippet with that kind of angle, resolution, good lighting, focus (even better in super slow motion) of the thread breaking would go a long way toward figuring out what's going wrong, without schlepping the machine around. Just an idea.

I'll see what I can do. I only have an iPhone 4s... And not enough hands to sew and hold it but I'll try.

I envy how easily your top thread comes through when you pull the fabric out, even when I have the tension release button pressed its a big effort and I get to watch my needles bend when I pull the leather away.

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Posted

I may have missed it somewhere, and this may not be the problem, but what size needle are you using with your 207 thread? Reason I ask is because I've had thread break when using too small a needle on my singer clone. Just a thought.

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Posted

The guys at Nick-O-Sew set it up for me when I told them what I was doing. The needle appears to say 23 and I'm using a 207 thread. They sent me a bunch of extra needles and they say 23. They told me they'd set it up for 207 thread.

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