Adler 467 For Venator

[gottaknow]

Hey Tinker,

The lack of oil doesn't have anything to do with the timing issues or the other things that have been out of adjustment. The binding and poor hook timing was done by someone who doesn't have the experience to do it correctly. I had to loosen the hook saddle and move it closer to the needle. That also involved setting the guard on the hook. I have a feeling this hook has been replaced by a generic one.

I have seen people use the wrong oil in machines with wicks like this Adler. Even if it were the wrong oil, it would still wick and lubricate. Near as I can tell, the bottom of the machine has been getting oil, the top has not. Once I get it in a table with a motor, I'll figure out what's going on. On a machine used for home sewing leather at a slow speed, the lack of oil simply makes the machine run a little tight. If it were inline in my factory, it would seize up in a day.

Regards, Eric

[Uwe]

Thank you Eric for posting these detailed problem solving steps and photos. I'm a little excited that my suspected presser foot roughness was part of the problem, but the whole set of problems was clearly much more complex than could have been debugged remotely. I'm glad you got your hands on the machine to inspect and fix it. Your posts are very educational indeed and I very much appreciate your efforts in documenting the process.

[gottaknow]

Aside from the hook timing and the sharp feed dog hole, the latch opener is a bit tight with this size thread. When you decide to move up a size in thread, be sure to always check this adjustment. What's working with T135 may not be ok with T207. Even though this was just pinching a bit, the thread needs a clear path.

Regards, Eric

[gt2ride]

Eric

Please tell me more about the latch opener adj. What should I be looking for.

thank you

gt2ride

[gottaknow]

Hey gt2ride, The latch opener adjustment is one of the most overlooked and important settings on a verticle hook machine. It's function is to hold the bobbin basket open just wide enough to create a clear path for the thread between the tab on the basket, and the back of the "notch" in the throat plate. It's easy to check, and easy to set. Get a couple ply of whatever you're sewing on and sew down a bit on the right edge. That will allow you to slide the cover open, turn the machine over by hand and watch your latch opener. Turn the handwheel slowly in the operating direction and watch the needle thread. After the hook picks it up, it will carry it over the top of the basket where your bobbin is. The latch opener should contact the basket and rotate it slightly ccw, allowing the thread to cleaning pass. If not, loosen the screw and adjust it just enough for the thread to clear. If you have it open too much, you'll hit the front side of the throat plate notch with the tab on the basket. An easy check when finished is to turn it until it's moved the basket as far as it will go ccw, then push the basket by hand ccw. There should be a slight gap. I've attached a pic below so you can see it.

Regards, Eric

[TZBrown]

Hook Timing needs to be done before latch opener timing, is that correct?

[gottaknow]

The order of things I progress through are as follows, I seldom if ever skip a step, especially on a machine I don't know the history of.

1) Top and bottom shafts properly timed.

2) Verify needle class, new needle.

3) Needle bar height.

4) Hook timing

5) Latch opening

6) Feed dog height

7) Feed pressure

8) Bobbin tension

9) Needle tension

10) Final sew off

Along the way, all the primary components get an inspection. Polish, replacing, etc.

Regards, Eric

[venator]

Thank you again so much Eric, this really is appreciated.

As I said, I'm happy to provide you with a free custom shirt for your efforts on my behalf, since it's what my company does it's the least I can offer.

[brmax]

Thanks Eric, Its always an interesting read with your findings.

Striking oil in your next segments! Im all eyes n ears as slow machine operations in the norm here.

Appreciate the tips and Good day there

[gottaknow]

I like going through machines in the forum and hopefully take some of the mystery out of industrial machines. It can be really discouraging and even the cause of some leaving the enjoyment of leather work because of a machine issue. That, and the costs associated with having them adjusted and repaired. I've always believed that most folks can learn their machines well enough to make basic adjustments and troubleshoot problems, not detracting from the hobby or even a small business. Nothing worse than getting half way through a project and having something come up. As I've said before, I make a really good living as a head mechanic in a factory. My only compensation is hoping that I might help some folks solve problems.

A wise man (dad) once told me that if you want to learn something, find someone who does it better and then pay attention. I was so impressed when I first joined the site the level of knowledge that was here and the willingness to help. I've been able to build my leather working skills by reading and practicing. Sewing machines are no different.

Regards, Eric