Singer 111W155 Stitch Length Indicator

[Elmore]

Well, I finally finished my sewing table and have started going through the Navy manual for my 111W155. I've hit a few snags already, and thought it would be a good idea to ask a few questions before I chase my tail around in circles for too long.

1. In the manual, it indicates that the arrows on the timing collar and timing plate should be aligned when the thread take-up lever reaches the highest point. Putting the thread take-up lever in that position, I removed the connection belt from the lower pulley and advanced the lower pulley by hand. With the timing marks lined up, the teeth on the clutch pulley don't quite mesh with the belt. Sliding the connection belt back on, ends up retarding the timing marks by about 1/16". Is there a way to fix this?

2. Starting on centering the feeding action, I noticed the Navy manual said to set the maximum stitch length at 3 1/2 SPI. My 111W155 stitch length indicator has an engraved 5. However, I am able to depress the plunger and turn the balance wheel beyond the 5 indicator, but when I count the stitches, it's more along the lines of 4 1/4 SPI. Does a 111W155 have a 3 1/2 SPI indicator? Or is the furthest rotation point of the balance wheel supposed to be set at that length, and mine is off?

3. Lastly, I noticed that my needle is not centered in the throat hole, it's a bit too far back. Looking at the manual, it says to loosen the needlebar rock frame rockshaft connection crank pink screw (figure 4-7 [A], table 4-2). Which, best I can tell, is the only screw near the needlebar. Loosening that screw doesn't allow for any adjustment of the needlebar within the hole of the throat plate, it just lets me slide the needlebar up and down...

Any advice is well appreciated! I'm eager to get this machine up and running, but also want to take the proper time to get everything set correctly from the beginning.

Thanks,

Paul

[BigMatt]

Wow, I am not a mechanic, but I think you are overthinking things on the stitch length. When you set it to 5spi, is it stitching 5spi? If so, I would think that your stitch length is set correctly.

To answer your #2 question, I have a 111w155 and the lowest stitch length indicator it has on the wheel is 5.

[vpd66]

Hello, I'm not a machine expert either, but own the same machine and have tinkered with it. Mine also has 5 spi has the smallest stitch length marked on the wheel. I can get about 4 spi if I go a little past the 5 mark. I know it makes a difference on the thickness and how many layers of material your sewing. I also have the same problem with my timing marks and have just learned to live with it. My machine sews just fine so it doesn't bother me. I guess something (belt pulley, belt worn) is causing the marks to be off a little, but it is not that big of deal. As long has the hook passes the needle at the correct time it will sew just fine.

[Elmore]

Ok, so 5 is the lowest setting that's displayed on the wheel, got it.

I set the stitch length for 5 SPI, and it stitched the correct amount. So then I set it to 8 SPI, which also sewed the correct length. When I set it to 12 SPI it no longer ran true, that stitched closer to 14.5 SPI. I tried 16 SPI and that stitched 19 SPI. So it seems like the further from the 5 SPI, where I set it at, the more slop I have in the indicator.

I did take it back to 5 SPI after trying the 16 SPI, and my 5 SPI were not as exact as when I first set them. I can definitely work with it, I just wasn't sure how exact the stitch indicator is supposed to be.

Still trying to figure out how to position the needlebar within the throat plate hole.

[vpd66]

I always run a test stitch on the same material I'm sewing when I change stitch length. I don't trust the indicator numbers. Don't have an answer for the position of the needle bar. I'm sure someone will chime in on that and give you a hand.

[CowboyBob]

Still trying to figure out how to position the needlebar within the throat plate hole.

Your working on the wrong end.Go to the backside of the machine,there's vertical rod for the knee lift & alittle more than 1/2 way up you'll see a 1/2 hole in the casting, shine a light in there & you'll see the screw you

need to loosen to move the needlebar front to back.It takes a large screwdriver & a lot of oomph to get it loose.

Edited June 3, 2015 by CowboyBob

[Elmore]

Thank you Bob! That did the trick. I never would have guessed that's what that access hole was for. The needlebar is now nicely centered in the throat plate hole.

Now to work on getting my needle and hook to be timed correctly.

[JpD789]

I have the same machine but my stitch length I have found is way off. It is only letting me set it at 7 spi for my longest stitch and even then it's stitching at 8 and 1\2. It won't let me set it to 5or 6 spi. any tips?

[RabanJr]

 

Still trying to figure out how to position the needlebar within the throat plate hole.

Your working on the wrong end.Go to the backside of the machine,there's vertical rod for the knee lift & alittle more than 1/2 way up you'll see a 1/2 hole in the casting, shine a light in there & you'll see the screw you

need to loosen to move the needlebar front to back.It takes a large screwdriver & a lot of oomph to get it loose.

Thank you sir! 

I sure neede this.

Talk about needing a lot of oomph

 

[shoepatcher]

Setting the stitch length to the correct length of stitch is not that hard.  There are two set screws in the stitch length indicator wheel.  Loosen both screws  and you can rotate the stitch length wheel.  Set the machine itself to 5 stitches per inch.  Then loosen the wheel and rotate until the number 5 shows up in the hole indicator.  Now the stitch length will correspond to the number in the hole indicator.  That number may not be true so always check your stitch length on scrap. 

The Singer 111W152-157 were all walking foot machines.  Fun to work on.

glenn