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Posted (edited)

It looks like all the dimensions are good. 

My XDM-40 has a longer barrel, but other than that ... looks good. 

Pictures below were taken by iPhone from about 4-foot, so parallax is an issue that makes it look like the gun is larger in some images, but it is not.  It's an artifact of taking a picture from a fairly close distance.

 

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Edited by Steelart999
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Posted

thanks ;)

the drawing was done from a 3.8" bbl (yers prolly 4.5"?) and withut the add-ons.

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted

Yeah, 4.5 barrel and I have a light attachment that I removed while taking the pictures.  Good job on the drawing; Matched extremely well.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

I just completed my first pancake holster using a JLS Leather pattern.  This was my second piece using my "new" Cowboy Outlaw on two layers of 7/8-oz Herman Oak with an elephant overlay. 

I built a vacuum press which worked fairly well.  The gun mold was a P80 Glock 19 and it was a bit tough to get it to stretch the leather enough to fit in ... especially around the trigger area.  Tight!

I definitely messed up the leather surface through all my handling, so that is one area for me to improve.  Edging is just so-so ... another improvement area.  Any critique is appreciated.

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Posted
40 minutes ago, Steelart999 said:

first pancake holster using a JLS Leather pattern

I like the design ;)

That DOES look snug.  Part of that is likely the full-length site channel (which I generally don't do) though teh Glock is clearly a newer design as well.  GOOD news is, you'll know where you want the next one narrower, or wider, or looser ... etc.  Your leather, at least on the back panel, looks like it may be a bit dry (lacking oils)?  Still, you pulled off the look - how does it carry?  Pulls okay?

Cant be sure from the pic if your thread is a bit smaller than I generally use, or could be just the geometry of the needle you used causing that look.  I like the LOOK of 277 thread in a holster, but I'm confident that 207 is certainly enough strength.

Is that elephant?  

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted

JLS Patterns are great . I have used many of them and they all fit like a glove . 

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Posted

@JLSleather do you have a link or pattern for a 40 M&P Shield pancake style holster? Also what other styles of patterns do you offer for the 40 M&P Shield? 

Thanks. Any & all help will be appreciated. 

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, JLSleather said:

I like the design ;)

That DOES look snug.  Part of that is likely the full-length site channel (which I generally don't do) though teh Glock is clearly a newer design as well.  GOOD news is, you'll know where you want the next one narrower, or wider, or looser ... etc.  Your leather, at least on the back panel, looks like it may be a bit dry (lacking oils)?  Still, you pulled off the look - how does it carry?  Pulls okay?

Cant be sure from the pic if your thread is a bit smaller than I generally use, or could be just the geometry of the needle you used causing that look.  I like the LOOK of 277 thread in a holster, but I'm confident that 207 is certainly enough strength.

Is that elephant?  

Geez ... I'm glad you like the design ... I'm a fan :yeah:

I did treat the leather with neatsfoot oil several days before dyeing, but I'm mostly working in a shop at below freezing ... could have affected my entire process  :P  I was using 277 thread on both a straight diamond shaped needle and the bobbin, but I'm obviously still learning how to adjust my machine appropriately.

The gun holds well and will NOT fall out.  Pull is just a little bit tight, but I feel that will ease a bit with use ... and warmer weather.

My thought on the next one is to try to get a flatter backside.  I'm going to do some vacuum forming of the frontside over the gun mold before sewing it onto the backside and then shaping the outer edge of the two when together.  I'm hoping that I can sew close enough to the formed edge using a left-side foot on my machine.  Alternately, I'll just loosen up the opening by moving the stitch lines a bit.

That is elephant on the front.  I've collected way too much exotic leathers over the years with the intent of doing leather sheaths for my knives.  I only ended up doing a few, but have just gotten the itch again ... so here I am. 

This is FUN!!!

Edited by Steelart999
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Posted
14 hours ago, DieselTech said:

do you have a link or pattern for a 40 M&P Shield pancake style holster? Also what other styles of patterns do you offer for the 40 M&P Shield? 

I DO ;)

Move.jpgI have a pattern for the shield that is a 'curved pancake".. which I greatly prefer over a "flat back".  Basically a manipulation of a "pancake" holster design, only the front is cut LARGER than the back (inside) panel, and sewn with a bend already in it.

And I also have a design around here sumares for the mag, and a double mag.

 

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Steelart999 said:

This is FUN!!!

Agreed. Until it becomes more like a job ;)

I may have something you'll like... and if you got a caliper I'll check some dimensions and make any adjustments if needed.

Move.jpgIf you're going to form with that yellow gun, I'm gonna recommend you cut or sand off the rear end of the "slide channel form".  I like to bevel it off so it's a bit of a ramp - exact angle doesn' t matter, but about 30ish shoud be fine.  I've colored the part i would remove.

BETTER YET - I like to take it all teh way off, gouge a groove down the center of the slide.  Then wet the sewn holster, shove the dummy in there, and then drive a dowel (or pencil, whatever) UP from teh muzzle end.  The round stock will track right in teh groove, keeping it in the center, and will stretch the leather ONLY where needed - not change the fit of the whole thing.  NOTE that when using this method, I use a dowel with that same bevel on teh high end, and you only want it to go as far as it needs to go.  Using your gun as example, you only need a site channel until the frame clears the low end of the holster, or basically the dowel can stop about the bottom of the port ;)

Obviously there's a redesign of the trigger guard since that previous design, so that will matter.  A slight change would make that cosmetic detail stand up, which would be nice.

Does your gun have that aggressive rail?  Your holster pic suggests it might.  When forming, I would "pad" that rail with some package tape, or similar - just to keep the leather from forming INTO the rail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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But I do make a "curved panel" for the older style G19, which may be more along the lines of what you're wanting to do.  Look a bit like this....

 

Edited by JLSleather

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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