Leather Emboss Roll,bunkhouse

[TheCobblersDtr]

Hello there! I have had the Bunkhouse embosser for a couple of years now and I had trial and error learning as well! Thanks for the tip in the bush, that has really balanced out the poly dies! 

However I have found that if you put contact (shelf paper on the back side of your work, it allows your work to keep its shape and the design is better as well! No stretching the leather! I wasted a bunch of leather pieces before I figured that out! 

Thanks yall! 

Cammie 

[Frankqv]

Thanks Cammid

A lot of straps I do are double thick,5+5 or 6+6 oz,gun belts. When the Two pcs are glued back to back I don't get any stretch. I'll try the contact for single layer.

 

Frank

Franks Classic Leather

[Mike516]

I hadn't seen this post when it was originally posted last year, but I'm glad I ran across it this morning.

I too felt a steep learning curve with this embosser. I've only had it a short while and read another thread where someone else posted that once you get the guides set, you won't want to move them as it's extremely difficult to get them even again when you change rolls. True this to the point I got so flustered and frustrated, I discovered something quite by accident. I removed the guides and sit eye level with the throat of the machine and guide the leather by eye. It takes a bit of practice, but it's much easier than messing with the crazy guides that don't quite tighten down evenly. It's like the hole where they slide onto the bar is bigger than the bar so even tightened down they still wobble.

But this isn't a precision type machine. For the price it's a great value and you can't beat it once you figure out your own method of using it.

I always wondered if anyone else operates this without the guides?

[JLSleather]

That embosser isn't that difficult.  I should maybe drop a line to Ray and friends and ask permission to put that on my site for 'em.... 

Meanwhile, don't let that a laid back good-ole-boy tone throw you off... I'm guessing Ray hasn't forgotten anything since back in '74   Have we heard of SET SCREWS?  Those guides ride on a bolt.  

Once you set the width to the width of your strap

 

Then a fella what was observin stuff might see that those guides run on a DOUBLE NUTTED BOLT (aka: set screw).

 

And if a guy could tell, looks like that might be about a 16 pitch screw.  Meaning 1/16" between each thread peak.  Meaning each full turn, the nut moves 1/16".  So, really --- if you back off the outside nut ONE FULL TURN, and tighten the inside nut ONE FULL TURN, then you've moved the guides (which are already set the correct width) exactly 1/16"  to the left (out).  TOO simple.. thanks, Ray T....

Oh, yeah ... keep in mind if you're trying to 'center' a roll on a strap, distance moved should be HALF.  If you're side (border) measurements differ by 1/8", move the bolt 1/16".  And if you're off by 1/32", run the strap through and don't worry about it

 

 

 

 

[Mike516]

So yea, when I spoke to him about having a hard time getting my straps centered he told me that some folks like to use those set screws to move the guides rather than move the guides themselves. The problem I was having was the guides shifting after I tightened them because the bar they are set on is smaller in diameter than the holes in the guides.

I guess everyone figures out what works best for them. I don't like the guides so I ditched them. It might take me a few seconds longer to run my straps through, but I'm not in a rush.

But thanks for the advice.

[SkapaLeather]

Ok, I hate to revive an old thread, but I hope ya'll don't mind!

This is the only example I have been able to find of someone putting a motor on to the Bunkhouse Tools embosser. Heck, I can only find 1 other example of someone doing it on one of the Tandy machines... but this is something I really want to do, so Frank, if you are around- I have a few questions!

1. can you provide any details as to the size/power/voltage/other specs of the motor you used, and perhaps how you set it up to attach to the machine (it looks like you have some sort of flywheel system)?

2. can you talk a little about using the brass wheels on the BT machine? I have some (and currently set up the Tandy one when I need to use those) because when I use them on the BT machine, they slip and/or chew up the leather (because I have to provide more pressure to make sure they dont slip). Any suggestions you can provide would be great because I would LOVE to operate just one machine.

Long time lurker, 1st post. Thank you all very much!

 

[Frankqv]

Skapa

The motor is a Von Weiss,V00212AV40 - VW40 115V AC Parallel Shaft - 30 RPM,12" pulley on the embosser,4" on the motor. Final RPM for embosser 10 RPM.Any 1/2 hp geared motor will do.

I purchased the motor off eBay ,they come available quite often,there is a Dayton replacement,don't know the model.

http://estore.vonweise.com/parallelouputshaftv00212av402z7941lpu5014q407-0056.aspx

I case the strips that I emboss. Not too wet,let the surface dry so the embosser has traction.

Hope this helps

 

[setzerjett]

hi guys great topic

im looking for embosser im in england

i cart find Beiler’s email or website

the bushes you put on to hold wheel steady  dont they get in way of the guides that position leather ie if wheels 1” 1/4” wide and belts 1”1/2” wide 

thx dave in uk 

[Frankqv]

No Dave they are well clear of the guides.

Frank

 

[setzerjett]

ok frank  thx