Members oldhat Posted June 19, 2015 Members Report Posted June 19, 2015 (edited) If i really want a strap to stand up to some heavy use i would go for bridle leather in particular bridle butt, if you can get it in the colour you want of course. Edited June 19, 2015 by oldhat Quote
Members TomG Posted June 19, 2015 Members Report Posted June 19, 2015 If i really want a strap to stand up to some heavy use i would go for bridle leather in particular bridle butt, if you can get it in the colour you want of course. Yeah Oldhat.. There's the rub.... I get orders for red, green, pink (hate it), brown black and blue (hate that one too, if they want very light blue.. never have succeeded at that one.) Quote Tom Gregory Legacy Leathercraft www.legacyleathercraft.com www.etsy.com/shop/legacyleathercraft
Members Manypawz Posted June 19, 2015 Members Report Posted June 19, 2015 I don't like the results I've had using TanKote. I make my own balm with beeswax and neatsfoot oil. After I apply a liberal amount and work it in, I burnish it down. I've had good results taming the "fuzzies" this way. I just melt the beeswax and neatsfoot oil together in a mason jar set in a double boiler. Once it's all melted I pour it into some waxed paper muffin cups or up cycled plastic containers and then I can pop the mixture out once it has set. Quote www.manypawz.com. http//www.etsy.com/people/manypaws1?ref=si_pr
Moderator Art Posted June 19, 2015 Moderator Report Posted June 19, 2015 Thank you all for the great tips, I have been searching for sno seal here in Texas, not suprised that it's not readily available at the local outdoor stores. I never thought of burnishing the back side with glass. I will try that for sure as well. I also think the higher the grade of leather the smoother that back will be in the end. For straps, I would recommend you use leather from the back. When you get up around the shoulder, the leather tends to be a bit loose and or stringy. Resolene helps as will most acrylics, but I just don't put them on anything; it's just not the look I want or like. When was the last time you saw a shiny cow? Acrylics don't flex very well, and if they crack, they will eventually flake off. Let's face it, they are plastic, and if you want plastic leather, try biothane. Sno-seal is a pretty good idea, as is Montana Pitchblend, and Skidmore's. You can probably interchange them and find Skidmore's in some biker shops. Sno-Seal is the cheapest, and it works. It is great that it is available a Wally World, and you might be able to catch a quick wrestling match while you are there. If you get stringy back leather, that's on the tanner and the cow, if you buy quality leather, you should expect the back to be smooth. If properly cut and finished, there should be nothing to be stringy. If the deed is done and you have a stringy piece, level it off with sandpaper and paste it with a food grade gum like tragacanth. Overall, the leather will wear better than any finish, and the grain side will wear better than the flesh. Doubled and Stitched straps are the ultimate sign of quality, even if you have to double 2 or 3 oz to meet design criteria, you will have a 4 oz or 6 oz strap with twice the strength of just a 4 or 6 oz single strap. Art Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
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