Chinese-Built Shoe Patcher

[dikman]

I just bought one of these little hand-cranked beasties, and was wondering if anyone else has one, or has used one? It's listed as a to-16 model by the seller.

It's a very interesting little piece of machinery, crudely made compared to a Singer, but using a standard (15x1) sewing machine needle (for leather) has no trouble punching through three layers of 8 oz veg. I haven't got it sewing yet, as I think I need some suitable thread (keeps breaking ordinary cotton thread!) but I bought it mainly to use to pre-punch the holes prior to hand stitching, and being a patcher-type machine means I can get into awkward areas - at least, that's the theory!

[Wizcrafts]

I thought those machines used system 135x16 and 135x17 needles. They are longer than domestic needles and come in much larger sizes (up to #25). Larger needles will poke bigger holes.

As for sewing with it, get yourself some T70 (a.k.a. b69) bonded nylon thread and #18 needles. That is the basic starting point for most patchers. If you are just going to punch holes with it, the round point needles will make a round hole, as opposed to a slit made by chisel point leather needles.

[Cobra Steve]

As Wiz said, it probably takes the 135 system needle unless it was never changed from the 29X1 or 29X 3 system, but most of the Singer patch machines have been converted.

[dikman]

Thanks guys. The needle that came with it appears to be the same as the 15x1 in my little Singer 201K. The length of the needle looks fine when it's operating, but a bit more investigation is obviously necessary.

By the way, I only use a machine to pre-punch the holes and then use an awl to open them up for the stitching needles. This gives me uniform spacing as well as making it easier to get the awl through the leather.

[dikman]

As suggested, I've ordered some #69 bonded thread. I've also sorted out the breaking thread issue. I figured it had to be the shuttle timing, as I'd dismantled it all to smooth out the sliding parts and grease them. It just took a little while to work out the correct operating sequence. Now I need to make a new presser foot, one that is height-adjustable. And a decent bobbin winder. The beauty of this thing is that it's so primitive that it's easy to work on! (I also found another post on here about the Able 290, which is the same machine).

[Darren Brosowski]

The machine I think you are talking about is based on the Wertheim, Claase etc 1860's machines.

They are crude but with the right set up can work very well. Primarily they are made for the third world market where they want a simple machine that is portable, can take all sorts of abuse and uses readily available needles.

The ABLE290 is what I call the machine and I offer a proper manual as well as a bobbin winder that actually works.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

I have one and use it for things like putting zippers in boots, and pursed and patching. I really use my cowboy most of the time, but; it comes in real handy for the odd job or zipper or what ever. Yes it is crude, but; then again, so am I! It works and that's all I'm gonna say.

Bob

[Darren Brosowski]

LOL Bob, unlike some sellers I have never pretended that the thing is anything other than crude and rude.

[dikman]

That's one of the things I like about it - the (very) basic, agricultural simplicity. I've modified mine a bit, put an adjustment on the springs that pull down the presser foot, smoothed off the teeth a bit on the foot, replaced the spring on the thread adjustment screw with a locking nut ('cos it tended to shift), made a table to give me a flat surface next to the feed area and I'm modifying a bobbin winder from a Singer 201K (the supplied one is a joke).

A very useful little machine.

[Darren Brosowski]

One of the things I do is make a bobbin winder out of Singer 15k parts from China. It is mounted on a bracket - with the original spring - so it can be mounted to the far right and run against the hand wheel all of the time.

[dikman]

Thanks Darren, I've seen your posts/photos on the Able 290 and wondered what you used. My winder has worked out pretty well and is mounted in the same position (the only practical place to put one). I turned down the bobbin winder shaft on the lathe and then found it only fitted one bobbin! Mine came with four bobbins, and they all had a different size centre hole, so I had to drill them out slightly!!

I've also made an adjustable guide to keep a consistent spacing if sewing along an edge.

I really need to experiment with making a decent presser foot next.

[Ole South]

What's the max stitch length on these Chinese patchers?

[Darren Brosowski]

It vary from machine to machine and can also depend on the direction you sew!!

Generally I quote 6mm (1/4")

What's the max stitch length on these Chinese patchers?

[IM7]

The hand-crank machine is gritty and mean and I'm in love!

I ordered mine from bantamsaddletack and it arrived quickly. I've been using it on full grain leather boots, jackets, gloves, and more. 

Taking hints from motorcycle maintenance, I wiped mine down with denatured alcohol, polished a few parts with Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish, and I'll be lubing the cams with a low viscosity, full synthetic oil (replacing the castor oil I have been using, whose smell I quite like).

How exactly does one change the stitch length on these machines? Ole South inquired about the max length; I am interested in a shorter stitch length. I reckon' it's a real simple turn of a screw, but I'm scratching my head at which one. Please enlighten me! 

[Darren Brosowski]

The screw is under the frame - below and to the left of the tension

 

[IM7]

Thank you for the quick reply!

[Darren Brosowski]

Lucky I was on at the right time!

[Ardie]

Hi,

I'm having tension issues....  Its a jumbled mess on the bottom.  How can I tackle this problem?

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, Ardie said:

Hi,

I'm having tension issues....  Its a jumbled mess on the bottom.  How can I tackle this problem?

It will help if you can post a photo of the machine and the thread mess.

Without seeing what's happening, or the machine it's happening on, all I can do is offer general solutions.

If the knots are on the bottom and causing the bottom thread to lay flat rather than being pulled up into the holes, either loosen the bobbin tension or increase the top tension.

If there is a whole pile of thread in and around the bobbin, first, hold back the starting threads for a few stitches. Next, make sure that the top thread is feeding inside the top tension disks and not lifting out of them. Third, make sure that the bobbin thread isn't jammed tight coming out of the bobbin case. Fourth, make sure the needle is the correct size and system for the machine and thread and that it is inserted in the correct orientation and all the way up inside its mounting bracket.

Make sure you've threaded the needle in the correct direction.

Finally, check the timing of the hook tip to the eye of the needle as it rises above bdc and forms a loop.

[stevemaynard]

I just bought one of these and have it sewing thin leather together and thin to thick leather (3.5mm , roughly 1/8") , but when I try to sew thick to thick leather the thread snaps or is sheared off.

I have tried using the waxed linen thread from a speedy stitcher as well as Getterman linen thread as well as varying the tension

I have a 100/16 needle on the machine.

I would prefer to use natural fibre thread if possible as I am wanting make stuff to sell to medieval re-enactors.

Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

 

 

[Leatherlady1008]

I own one of these chinese patcher, and it's came in pretty handy for getting into those hard to reach places. But, I'm now getting a very loose top stitch. I'm assuming that it's a bobbin tension problem. Can someone tell me how to adjust the bottom tension please? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Specks]

I have one but cannot use it as i need 2 tension clips and screws as the 2 that came with machine do not have these parts also nowhere to buy these parts in uk

[Gymnast]

A facebook private group exsist with about 4000 members, and it is quite active. It is called China Leather Shoe Patcher. A lot of owners got problems with the machine in this group and others try to help. I think you need some mechanical handy man skills to be able to fix the problems with of it.

Yes, it uses the normal needles for domestic sewing machines. But some do a modification to the needle bar on them, so they can use 135x17 needles.

Edited October 18, 2020 by Gymnast

[Northmount]

From some researching I did a few months ago, I got these responses about manuals.  Copied info from https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79107-i-bought-an-able290-manual-for-my-chinese-shoe-patcher-from-darren-brosowski/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-618854

This manual may be of some help as it is one of the Chinese clones.

 

ABLE 290 - Patching Machine Sorry for the delay in replying, message my personal business page Cyndy Kitt Productions. I am only selling hard copies of the fully revised manual. AU$25 includes postage.

Cyndy Kitt Productions Yes, AU$20 for the manual, +AU$4.50 postage . . . the international postal service has been very slow the last few months because of the pandemic though.

Tom